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1650 Motor Mounts

aftermarket or oem

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#1 dadscub OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 06:27 PM

Well i got another question! I saw some motor mounts on ebay for my 1650 cub and there only $25. Has anyone had any experience with these cause thats cheap!!!!! but there not that fun to change so if there junk ill just have to ask my wife for advance in my allowance  to get OEM.                                                                                                    :biting_nails:


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#2 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 07:22 PM

You hit me in a sore spot with this one. Will they fit, Yes. BUT they were very firm and the tractor shook like crazy at all speeds. I'm not a fan of the C.C. floating motors. I'm really NOT a fan of the Flea-bay rubber bushings. 

Sorry but you asked  :say_what:


Edited by Cvans, February 05, 2014 - 07:55 PM.

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#3 dadscub OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 07:42 PM

Im glad i asked cause i woulda been a lil ticked if i ended up pullin the motor out again and ya i wish i had the cash rite now to shoehorn a v twin in



#4 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 07:51 PM

Can't help you with the ones sold on evilpay. I put the Cub ones on my 1650, price is high, but as you I only wanted to do it once.


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#5 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 07:57 PM

Boy that V-twin would be a smooth option. :thumbs:


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#6 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 10:46 PM

I just installed a new set of new OEM cub mounts in my 1650 (that I've only had for about two months). I also thought about going the cheap route on ebay but if you do that, you have to use your old metal bushings from your old mounts. When I got the old mounts out, they were totally destroyed and the metal bushings were badly damaged as well. Because of the bushing damage, I was afraid to re-used them. I decided to bite the bullet and go with the Cub OEM mounts. I did the recommended cradle upgrade and installed the new Cub mounts. Since I've only had the tractor for two months, I didn't have a good "before and after" comparison for the shaking (original good Cub mounts versus new installed Cub mounts). Apparently, Cub has changed the design and makeup of their mounts from their originals. My tractor shakes like crazy with the new Cub OEM mounts just like it did with the old damaged mounts. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably go with the cheaper mounts. Might even consider the solid mounts offered by Brian Miller because I don't think it could shake any worse than it does now. Also with solid mounts, you would never have to replace engine mounts again. I've looked for missing fins on the flywheel or anything that would cause the engine to be badly out of balance and cause excessive shaking. I haven't found anything yet. I'll let you know if I find something other than the engine mounts.

I did a lot of reading on the internet about isomount replacements for the QL series tractors before I replaced mine. The general consensus seems to be split 50-50. Some recommending using only OEM Cub parts and about the same number saying after market is OK and go with the cheap. I'm afraid you're on your own with this decision.
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#7 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 10:55 PM

I worked on a 1250 (same tractor only the engine is a 12HP instead of a 16)   for a friend a few years ago and th mounts were "gone"

I thought I was doing him a favor when I found someone advertising steel replacements (obviously not OEM)  at a price much less than OEM would have been. I put them in and the 1st time I fired that motor up I thought all my teeth were gonna rattle out of my head,,,, that aint gonna work. This was now the roughest riding garden tractor that I had ever been on....  I went and bought a sway bar link for (as I remember) a RWD '80s GM car   I got the "good" one with the urethane bushings. It was only like $2 difference... I used those bushings for motor mounts and it was great.


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#8 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 11:02 PM

I've used both at work and personally would never use the oem ones again.  I put them in and tried to torque them to the original specs in the service book and crushed the steel inserts.  Got a set of the red polyurethane bushings from Patton Acres and they worked great and didnt have any noticeable shake to it.  Hope this helps.         Stewart


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#9 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 11:45 PM

I wish I had tried the poly mounts. I might feel better about the Quiet Line of cubs.

Mine was the 1450 so it appears that they are all prone to this.


Edited by Cvans, February 05, 2014 - 11:47 PM.

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#10 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 12:20 AM

Never go with the torque specs out of the manual. There was a great deal of discussion on this subject back home on the mother ship and going by the service manual is going to flatten out your bushings. We've discussed this topic on at least five separate threads that I recall, and everyone that torqued according to the manual failed. 

As I wrote in another thread, use new fiber nuts and turn them down until two threads are showing. If you already torqued the nut according to the manual, your SOL. One shot deal. 

I personally replaced ISO mounts on two tractors using the two threads showing and have had no ill effects whatsoever. Yes I have some vibration, mostly at half throttle down to idle, but at full throttle it's smooth as a QL is going to be. You also have a lot of tin vibrating on these tractors after 35 years. (mines a 79 1650) Plus when I rebuilt the engine the balance weights went out the window.

I don't know what cub thinks by their torque specs, but from my experience and those of others I know, use the two thread procedure.


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#11 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 11:15 AM

Zippy1 thanks for the information. 

I started with mine just barely compressing the grommets and increased pressure after running it. Never did over compress them and all that happened was the worst of the shaking just moved from one RPM to another. Finally gave up and used the machine for parts. It was nasty to operate before I changed the rag joints and bushings and it didn't improve much afterwards. I enjoy operating equipment but not being abused. 

Anyway the the 129's and 149's are much more enjoyable to operate as far as I'm concerned. Glad you've had success with your machine.


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#12 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 05:49 PM

I've seen these two ways. Case used 4 bolt metal corners and Have seen them with just 2 bolts to  hold in. Not sure what IH used. McMaster-Carr site has those cheaper.  Not sure what to look under to find them, but have seen them there. Also many swap meets now have guys selling those, not sure what from, but have spent $12 for four to help my buddy on his. Don't think I heard how the worked for him. Seemed they had pretty heavy metal in center tube, not just a tinny thing If I recall correctly.


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#13 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted February 10, 2014 - 09:44 AM

I had a 1650 a few years ago that I replaced the motor mounts on and while I was at it I replaced the drive shaft and also the rag joints , a plus the flanges too. At first I was not to impressed because my 1650 shook like crazy at half-3/4 throttle , It took about 6 months of use for them to get soft , but once the softened up it was like a brand new machine. Looking back it was worth every penny in time trouble and effert on my part to replace.
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#14 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted February 10, 2014 - 10:41 AM

but I would use the cub cadet ones for sure. 


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