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1614 Has No Power Anywhere


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#1 EKOSMUS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 03:41 PM

Tractor ran fine then next day would not turn over. Lights would not even come on. it is between 1981-1984. Changed battery and still nothing.


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#2 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 04:16 PM

welcome to GTT. there are others on this site that are more helpful with Power King/ Economy than I. Maybe they will give some good advice in a few. have you checked the fuses and ground wire connections while waiting for some real help. There also may be a manual in the manual section. Roll Tide or War Eagle


Edited by jms180, February 05, 2014 - 04:17 PM.

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#3 EKOSMUS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 04:23 PM

Roll Tide. I have checked fuses and ground. any ideas are helpful. i will look for a manual


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#4 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 04:47 PM

Roll Tide !  there will be someone come along helpful I am sure


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#5 Bob 537 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 05:50 PM

Do you have power through the switch?
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#6 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2014 - 10:18 PM

 212_large.jpg Welcome!

 

 

I would trace the wiring (cables, starter, ignition, and so on) to see where the power ends. You might try going direct from battery to starter.



#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 06:12 AM

Since everything is dead and the fuse is Ok I'm thinking you may have a ground problem. If that connection is broken nothing will work. Could also be the ignition switch. Some tractors have a thermal breaker as well. This little bugger can cause you problems if it pops and doesn't reset.


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#8 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 10:22 AM

Welcome to GTT. Electrical problems can be a real PIA. I will assume you are a beginner. Get a continuity test light. Connect the clamp to the NEG terminal of the battery as it is installed. Test the light by sticking the probe directly on the POS ternimal. The tester should light up. Now, you know that the tester works. Next, test the battery cable at the terminal clamp. Then, work your way through the circuit to see how far the electricity is getting. When the light doesn't light up you have found a problem. Good Luck, Rick

#9 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 10:27 AM

Roll Tide. I have checked fuses and ground. any ideas are helpful. i will look for a manual

Ekosmus

look in the manual section - there are manual there for the power king 

you can download the manuals


Edited by lyall, February 06, 2014 - 10:27 AM.


#10 EKOSMUS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 03:05 PM

Thank you everyone that replied that gives me a place to start. I will let you know how it goes. May take me a few days. The tractors serial# is

60842. Does that give anyone an idea of the year.



#11 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 04:12 PM

Yo Mod type folks--> May I offer a suggestion to post these preliminary steps to guide all folks with tractor starting trouble? smiley-confused013.gif So Please go through this list and other folks may pop in and offer better suggestions then we can amend and make it a sticky @ the top of all of our the tractor forums and in this forum as well.

The things to do for Every electrical starting problem are:

First off- Load Test your battery. Replace if it's bad.

If it's good- PTO OFF- Tranny in Neutral- Brake pressed or Parking brake set- Sitting in the seat? Try it..

If still no go- Check / Clean all Main cable connections.. Battery & Frame! Retry..

If still no go- With parking brake on and PTO OFF and Tranny in neutral and NO GAS fumes present as this will spark!-> Jump the solenoid large terminals with pliers or one side of jumper cables to see if it cranks. If it doesn't crank or at least try to, The starter is bad or locked up (bendix / gear is stuck out and still engaged in flywheel) (LarryBL has a great Starter rebuild thread sticky that shows how to do this..)

Next- Hook a test light up to the Positive terminal on your battery. Test it to a good ground to be sure it lights up. Test it to your starter case. Light is good, no light is bad ground somewhere.. 

Go to the starter Solenoid. Different solenoids are made but they all perform the same function. They magnetize via a small coil to connect two large wire connections. (battery to starter..) The small terminals are for the activation electromagnet. One of the wires is connected to ground if there are two. (test to determine it is so, if not- check connections) If there is only 0ne small terminal the ground is provided via the solenoid's mounting plate.. If you checked grounds earlier and the solenoid is securely fastened to the frame you should be OK. 

The other (or single) small terminal is the 12V+ Start signal that is hopefully provided when you turn the key to Start if all Safety Interlocks are as they should be. **Note- Some starting systems have positive power @ the solenoid and the negative side is used for the starting circuit! So if there is always 12V+ present @ the solenoid your starting system is the same theory but the negative or ground is used for starter activation!!- Post a thread in the appropriate forum for help if you do!!

Soo... To trouble-shoot the solenoid, Set all Safety's (PTO OFF, Brake SET, in Neutral and connect that terminal to the positive lug of the solenoid using pliers or a hunk of wire. If the coil does not click- the Solenoid is bad and you gotta go shopping for a new one. Install the new one and start over..

If it cranks, you have Ign. Switch, Start circuit Safety Interlock trouble.

Here's the initial steps to test / ring out almost ANY Starting Circuit- 

1) Perform tests above. That determines for sure that the Start Circuit is at fault (Hint-->> did you check the GROUNDS too??)

2) Begin testing @ the ignition switch. Find the (B) or Battery connector. As long as the battery is good and the Fuse is intact and the connections are good--> A test light connected to battery or frame (verified by testing to the battery positive terminal) should light up. If not- Test that wire back to the battery or Solenoid main positive 12V+ where it is hooked up. (**It's possible that: if the wiring has been worked on it could be connected to the wrong side (starter) of the solenoid.. Rewire and try again!) 

3) So now you have 12V+ at the IGN switch's B (battery) terminal! Great! The next step is to set all safety's and PTO off and turn the key to Start. There is One terminal (labeled S) which is your start circuit wire. It should test 12V+ with either your meter or test light hooked to ground. If not- the Ign. Switch is wrong or bad. This is true of almost every older tractor start system. **Replace it with the correct type as there are many different configurations available even though they come with the same plug / terminal design. Take your old switch with you and compare to be sure they match. 

4) So if you get 12V+ @ the start terminal everything is great up to that point. This is where the Safety Interlocks come into play. This is Very different from tractor to tractor and if you need help from here ask in the forum with the tractor and model# so someone can help you with the particular way to check your machine as THEY VARY A LOT. 

So please help us help you better by performing the steps above before posting up.. (**Always feel free to post if you don't understand!!) Just trying to help!trink40.gif

Tractor ON BABY!! See ya around folks!! smiley-greet013.gif


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, February 06, 2014 - 04:33 PM.


#12 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 05:57 PM

Wiring diagram is first thing to find. Maybe in manuals here? If not, the Yahoo/powerking group has some on their site. Seems like I have seen guys posting one here too if you can search for it?  Not sure what words to use for that, and might not be the main posting to start anyway.  Think most fellas above have it figured out, just gotta do steps. Myself, I use a lot of star washers where cables meet metal on tractor body or terms. They bite into the metal on frame and on the wire end, right thru paint or dirt. Some feel it may rust there at exposed metal, but I  haven't had too much problem on ones I used that way.



#13 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 06:08 PM

Thank you everyone that replied that gives me a place to start. I will let you know how it goes. May take me a few days. The tractors serial# is

60842. Does that give anyone an idea of the year.

Your tractor is a 1983.  If it's like the one I used to have, it has a safety switch on the seat.  Check that switch as well.


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#14 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 06:21 PM

That is a 1983 model and has or had a seat safety switch from the factor.Make sure your PTO switch is disengaged or you could have a faulty switch.

 

I THINK the electrical schematics were the same in 1982

Attached Files



#15 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2014 - 06:22 PM

Your tractor is a 1983.  If it's like the one I used to have, it has a safety switch on the seat.  Check that switch as well.

 You snuck in there while I was uploading this file. :D


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