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Cub Cadet Original, New Project


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#1 farmerall ONLINE  

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Posted February 03, 2014 - 11:04 PM

Well I just got another project. I traded my brother some stuff of mine for his Cub Cadet Original he got not to long ago. The tractor is rough and rusty from sitting under a tarp for 10 years but there is still enough left to work with. The spindles are rusted solid and the steering box is broken but I can fix them. First thing I will do is get the engine running so I can make sure the drive line is still good. After that I will pull the K161 out and replace it with a 18hp Briggs twin. I will fix the steering by replacing the whole front axel with one from a wide frame and I will also use a steering colum from a CC129 to replace the broken one. Next I want to have a rear lift so I will use the one I have that came off the same 129 the steering parts are coming from. When I parted out the 129 I saved the rear frame rails so I will shorten them down and bolt them on the trans so I can mount the rear lift. To make the rear lift work I plan to use a hydraulic lift system from I JD 112 that I have. I want to build the rear lift this way so that I can finally use my Gannon Eartcavator that I have had for over a year now.

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#2 T Guiles OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2014 - 12:11 AM

Sounds like a great project, should be a real work horse when done


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#3 83MALIBU OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2014 - 07:00 AM

Sounds like you have things planned out. Should be an interesting project.


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#4 Arti OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2014 - 07:14 AM

Interesting project, that will be a real workhorse when you have it done.
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#5 Jlaws ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2014 - 12:31 PM

Farmerall , what model 18 hp Briggs twin are you going to use ?

When I did my Cub Original twin cylinder conversion I kicked around the ideal of using a 18 hp Briggs opposed twin engine I had sitting around the garage , but quickly learned that it was to tall and wouldn't clear the hood when closed without cutting it .  I could have used spacers and raised the console and front grill but instead I settled on a Kohler Magnum twin because it wasn't quite as tall and it barely clear the hood when closed .

 

Half the fun I had was sitting on a 5 gallon bucket with a pen and note pad along with a tape measure , and doing a lot of measuring and figuring problems out ....

 

It sounds like a fun project , I'll be interested in how it turns out .


Edited by Jlaws, February 04, 2014 - 12:32 PM.

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#6 farmerall ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2014 - 02:18 PM

Farmerall , what model 18 hp Briggs twin are you going to use ?

When I did my Cub Original twin cylinder conversion I kicked around the ideal of using a 18 hp Briggs opposed twin engine I had sitting around the garage , but quickly learned that it was to tall and wouldn't clear the hood when closed without cutting it .  I could have used spacers and raised the console and front grill but instead I settled on a Kohler Magnum twin because it wasn't quite as tall and it barely clear the hood when closed .

 

Half the fun I had was sitting on a 5 gallon bucket with a pen and note pad along with a tape measure , and doing a lot of measuring and figuring problems out ....

 

It sounds like a fun project , I'll be interested in how it turns out .

 

I will be using an opposed twin. When I get to swapping the engine I may just leave the hood off.



#7 Jlaws ONLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2014 - 06:11 PM

The great thing about using an Original is the fact that its belt driven and the bottom driveshaft has some adjustment for belt tension , so crankshaft height isn't a problem . Simply using a slightly longer or shorter belt depending on engine crank height .

Plus the engine mounts on a flat plate so re-drilling a different set of engine mounting holes is easy .

 

The rearend is pretty bullet proof and will have no problem handling 18 hp .

 

The down side is the belt may have problems handling 18 hp and your clutch may need a heavier spring . I ended up putting a double pulley on the driveshaft and engine for a matched set of drive belts and used a pulling clutch spring .

 

I reinforced the frame with gussets because they are prone to crack at the reduction housing mounting area with just a stock engine .

 

But then again I use mine as a plowing tractor and under normal use I could have probably gotten by without all the additional mods .  

 

I'm just letting you know some of the issues you may run into with the bigger engine .


Edited by Jlaws, February 04, 2014 - 06:41 PM.

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