The linkage from the clutch pedal pulled the clutch arm forward.
This is the original clutch lever arm on the engine.

The clutch pedal on the tractor is going to now be behind the engine so I need to change the clutch arm so it pulls backward.
First I cut the original clutch arm off.
Then I made a sleeve that fits over the clutch shaft. This sleeve has a 3/4 inch diameter shaft sticking out with a keyway milled into it.

Next, I made a new clutch arm that fits on the shaft.
This arm extends down along side the frame so when it is pulled backwards it opens the clutch.

For the clutch pedal pivot pin, I made a mounting plate from 5/8 inch thick steel.
A 1 inch diameter shaft is pressed into this plate and welded on the the back side.
This pivot pin is then bolted onto the side of the frame.
I found an old steel roller off something, that has bronze bushings with a 1 inch diameter bore.
This is going to be the base for the clutch pedal.

Because the steering is mounted on this side, I don't have as much room to work with as I did on the other side with the brakes.
This shows the clearance with the steering arm all the way back.
Also note, I welded a steel plug in the end of the foot pad support. There will be a brace from it to the pivot pin.

Here is the finished clutch pedal.

The pedal is mounted and the linkage is made between the clutch pedal and the clutch arm.
A plate is bolted on the end of the foot pad support and the end of the pivot pin.
This supports the end of the pin and keeps the clutch pedal from sliding off.

A view of the linkage from the top.

Here is a view from the seat.

The new rear brake bands came in so I started working on the brake levers.
The shaft for levers goes thru a hole in the back of the axle housing. The arm on the brake side will be welded on but the arm on the other side needs to be able to come off so the shaft can be removed in case I ever have to work on the bull gears.
I bought a universal pulley/sprocket hub from TSC. I also got two "half moon" keys that fit the hub.
The hub was long enough that I could cut it in two and then I turned the outside diameter down to fit the clearance on the axle housing.

Then I use a side key-cutter and milled a slot into each shaft for the keys.

the arms have been welded on the outside of the shafts and the keyed hubs are mounted on the inside of the shafts.
Then I made up two arms for each side. One arm goes up for the brake cable to attach to and the other goes down and has a screw at the bottom.
This screw is to adjust how far the arm will open up the brake band.

Here are the finished brake shafts and brake arms.

the brake arms are mounted in place and I welded a bracket on top of the axle housing to hold the brake cable housing.

As a reminder, this is the shifter handle that was on the engine.
The shifting levers went forward and came up between the seats on the EzGo utility cart.
The lever on the left is for shifting the 3-speed transmission and the other lever is for shifting the high/low transmission.

I cut the shifter off at the first bend so that left about 1-1/2 inch of shift lever sticking up from the transmission.

Using a piece of 1 inch steel bar, I made a sleeve that fit over the shifter stub.
This sleeve is welded to the shifter thru holes that were drilled in the sides.
Then I cut off part of the old shifter lever and welded it to the sleeve.

I'm using a parking brake handle off and old truck from back in the 30's.
Two angle brackets are welded to the frame for the brake handle to bolt too.


I was thinking of mounting a brake drum on the drive shaft for the parking brake but there just isn't enough room.
So I'm going to have the parking brake handle operate both of the rear brake levers.
This it the jack shaft for the parking brake. The jack shaft tube is split into 3 sections.
