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Tell me a little about a Case 448.


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#76 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 07:39 PM

Here are pics of the manual:
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#77 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:02 PM

I'd say great deal George. Good for you. With the manuals. Great. Good price it seems.

#78 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:04 PM

The only manual it looks like I am missing is the actual tractor manual. After looking at the manuals I have I realized I do have the rear pto also. I originally thought it might have been the 3pt lift control.

#79 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:05 PM

Great Deal George

#80 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:11 PM

Good glad you got it.Guess you pulled one over on me.LOL Larry

#81 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:16 PM

Glad you got it, and really glad you're happy with it.

I noticed you don't have those manuals uploaded yet...

#82 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 09:04 PM

Great deal

#83 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 09:18 PM

That was not nice george.As of now i will no longer speak to you.:mad2: :bash::ass:



Just kidding glad you got it and at a real good price.Have not seen one with all that go that cheap in awhile.

#84 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 09:24 PM

I think what helped make it go so cheap was that there is a lot that needs to be put back together on it and that it wasn't running. I am hoping I get lucky with the Onan and that after a little more cleaning up and a good carb cleaning that it will run good. I have a good feeling she has a lot of hours on it. If it doesn't run right then I will start saving for a diesel. I think before long I might get one of the 10hp china diesels for the Massey 12 but I would love to find a 20+ hp diesel for the Case or the Massey. I know the 20hp Onan in the Massey runs good so I could always switch that one over to the Case and put the diesel in the Massey.

The problem doing a diesel in the Case is that the mower deck on the Case is in really good shape and would make a good candidate for mowing season. But for the mower deck to work I need two output shafts and so far all of the diesels I have seen only have one output shaft.

#85 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 09:49 PM

Congrats on the Case George! On the MF Onan....I believe you will have to cut the crankshaft output short to use it on the Case, so you wanna think hard on that one. Once cut off, it won't work on the Massey. Great deal regardless if engine isn't an easy runner!

#86 mastifflawyer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2011 - 06:09 AM

George- I have alerted to police and they are investigating the robbery you committed. You have a 3pt that is currently selling for over $400. You have a PTO that goes for around $225. You have a load of manuals that go for about $10 each. Mowing decks fetch $100. The 3pt adapter sells for about $150. Oh yea, you got a tractor thrown in for being such a nice guy.

Forget about the diesel conversion. We'll get that onan running. Take the heads off and see what is going on inside.

As to the tractor being apart. That just saves you time in the restoration process.

#87 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2011 - 06:16 AM

You done really good George,great deal.And to boot,it looks pretty good too,congratulations.

#88 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2011 - 07:02 AM

George- I have alerted to police and they are investigating the robbery you committed. You have a 3pt that is currently selling for over $400. You have a PTO that goes for around $225. You have a load of manuals that go for about $10 each. Mowing decks fetch $100. The 3pt adapter sells for about $150. Oh yea, you got a tractor thrown in for being such a nice guy.

Forget about the diesel conversion. We'll get that onan running. Take the heads off and see what is going on inside.

As to the tractor being apart. That just saves you time in the restoration process.


I did get a pretty good deal on it and I am not complaining one bit LOL.

I would like to get it all back together before restoring it as I would like to make sure everything is good mechanically. I need to get a new hose for my pressure washer. That Onan is going to take a lot of cleaning, I can't believe how much crud is caked on it. I guess I should ask how hard it is to get the front pto and pulley off the front of the motor? I would like to take the front shroud off and clean in behind it. If I am going to pull the heads off I better order some head gaskets.

#89 hydriv OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2011 - 11:17 AM

Ok guys, I can't pull your legs anymore. I had to after all the ribbing I got. We got home just before I posted that last post. I must say I do like the tractor. There is a good bit more work that needs to be done then I thought there would be. When we were there looking at the tractor I tried to turn the motor over by hand but it wouldn't budge at first and then I did manage to get it to turn about a 1/4 turn but it was extremely hard to get it to turn. The guy had more pieces torn off of it then the pics lead to believe also.

I don't have high hopes for the Onan. I also can't believe how much crud was built up on the motor and around the frame and in front of the dash. Once we got the tractor home I was looking around and noticed the motor mount bolts weren't even tight so I took the nuts off and we took the motor out and set it up on saw bucks. It is going to take a long time to get the motor cleaned up. I am mainly going to scrape it as clean as I can get it and then put it back in and see if we can't get it running. I know the carb is going to have to come off and get a good cleaning.

I have a little bit to figure out on the wiring but I think I can manage. There are a couple hydraulic lines that need put back on also. I figured out kind of how the mid lift/brake assembly will mount and will get that put back on tomorrow. The guy said it sat at his ex inlaws for a long time before he bought it and then it sat for a while since he bought it. Overall I think I got a decent deal. It does have the 3pt assembly, an a-frame/brinly adapter for the 3pt which is nice because I needed one and was going to build one. The mower deck is in really good shape overall. I also got a 3 ring binder will all of the manuals for it. I gave him $400 for it.

I know you guys like pics so here they are:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]9069[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9059[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9061[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]9067[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9064[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9066[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]9057[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9055[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9063[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]9058[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9068[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9062[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]9054[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9060[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9053[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]9065[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]9056[/ATTACH]


George,
Allow me to tell you just how much of STEAL you just made. Yes....I know... the missing $400.00 from your crusty, dusty wallet is probably still hurting but here's some Preparation H to help ease the sting.


- used J-26 3pt hitch -- $450.00 and up on e-Bay all the time.

- used rear PTO .............$150.00 and up

- used F-27 Sleeve Hitch Adapter - $125.00 and up

In other words, you just bought $700.00 worth of OPTIONS for a Case tractor and paid $400.0. On top of that, he threw in a complete tractor and several manuals and those would likely bring you $30.00 or more on e-Bay.

Feel better now?


OK....... here's my advice, George. STOP

Do you want to make this tractor into a highly reliable unit for yourself?

If so.... then finish dismantling it to the bare from. You have a decent shop. You can do this in an hour or so.

Decide if you want to repaint or not. If no, then wash the frame clean and inspect it for cracks. Check the frame where the Onan bolts down. You may have add weld to build one or more spots up and then grind lightly before using a big flat file. Pay attention to the two large plates that form the front cross member. With the frame upside down, insert the front axle to see if they are spread open. You may have to use a large diameter, long bolt through the pivot hole with large washers and a nut on it to pull the plates back together. Look at the axles design. Do you see the bumps in the casting that are there to get support from the ends of those cross-member plates? That's a clue for you as to how tight together those plates should be.

How about the pivot pin, the pivot hole in the cross member and the axle? Too much play? New pin? Bush axle? You know the drill. Is the axle bent/twisted? Common issue . The kingpin holes should be dead vertical. The axles are cast steel. That can be heated cherry red and straightened. Just let them cool as SLOWLY as possible.

Take the cover off the trans-axle after draining it. What came out? Any sign of water? How about signs of oil seepage at the axles, the brake shaft, the shift shaft or the drive motor? Is the trans-axle clean inside or do you need to flush it with diesel? Check the torque on the four bolts that hole the two big gears to the center section with the diff gears in it. How tight were the cover bolts? Any sign of water getting past the gasket?

Making a diary of the order in which you took the tractor apart allows you to perform the reverse order when putting it back together. Also, take a ton and a half of photos including close-ups to show how things were assembled.

Installing new rod ends on the drag link and tie rod are almost a given. Replace the plastic bushings for the dash lever and the steering shaft. Do not attempt to remove the steering wheel before talking with me. They are a bytch.

The high pressure hose from the pump is always suspect. If it looks marginal.........

Decals and correct paint are available.

If you UNDO NOW all the years of wear, tear, neglect and abuse; the finished product will function like a new one.

#90 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2011 - 11:29 AM

I more then likely will tear it down the rest of the way. Especially now that I have gotten a couple of the hoses back in place and am able to see how the rest of it will go back together. I wish the weather was a little warmer for more comfortable sandblasting or getting the electrolysis tank setup.

There is a good bit of wear in the frame where the motor bolted. I was going to ask if filling with weld and grinding flat was the best way to fix it.

There is some play in the front axle pivot. The axle isn't bent at all. Do they make a bushing kit for the pin or do they make an oversized pin? I am missing the pin retainer which I will get. Looks like I will be taking a ton of pics and starting a build thread. I might as well tear it down the whole way. I just wanted to be comfortable that I knew where everything went. I am sure I could have figured it all out between me and everyone here and the manuals.

The axle as far as leaks looks really clean. I will tear it down and get some better/more pics posted for everyone.




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