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Case 646 & Kubota Z482


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#16 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2014 - 12:01 PM

Glad to see the re-power is under way! I'll be watching this one, as I would like to this to one of mine some day. Thanks for the pics. :thumbs:

 

Matt



#17 boss351c OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 06:31 AM

I got a little more time this weekend to work on the repower. Decided to make a plate that will bolt to the face of the bellhousing to repair what the PO did to it. I started my machining the face flat and true to the engine block mounting surface. Than I milled the hole the PO hacked into a somewhat nicer shape. Then, on 3/8" aluminum plate, I laid out the pump mount pattern and 6 bolt holes to secure it the plate to the bellhousing. The circular piece was rough plasma cut out and clamped to the mill table. I used a hole saw to start the large center hole, then used a boring head to finish to size (3.25"). Now, using that hole, I chucked the plate in the lathe and finished the rough OD to size to match the bellhousing (8.875"). That is as far as I got this weekend.

Next I will drill the holes in the plate, index the pump mounting holes to the proper position (the pump is mounted in a rotated manor in the Case), and drill the plate mounting holes in the bellhousing. Once the plate is attached to the bellhousing I will mount the bellhousing on the engine and indicate the pump mounting hole to the crank centerline. The repair plate mounting bolts should give me some adjustability here.

Bellhousing before:
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Plate layed out and rough cut.  Mounted on mill table.

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Center hole bored

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OD turned to size

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Bellhousing cleaned up

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Plate sitting on bellhousing

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Edited by boss351c, February 17, 2014 - 08:51 AM.

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#18 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 11:51 AM

Looks like it is coming along nicely. Thanks for letting us follow along with you.



#19 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 10:19 PM

Looks good! Waiting for next installment. I will have to hit you up on how to layout the hole pattern a little latter in my repower.



#20 boss351c OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2014 - 06:34 AM

The layout is easy. Once I knew the outside diameter needed for the plate (8 7/8" in this case), just mark out a square that is slightly larger (9 1/2" here). This accounted for room to cut the circle with the plasma without getting too close to the lay out line. Next, scribe lines between opposite corners to form an X inside the square. This both finds the center of the square and begins to locate the mounting holes. Now measure to locate the center of each side of the square. You can continue to halve the sides of the square to add more lines (holes) in multiples of 4. Scribe lines between the centers of opposite sides. Center punch the point where all of these lines intersect in the middle of the square. Now you can use a compase with a scribe to mark the pump pilot diameter and the overall diameter. It can also be used to mark out the bolt pattern by scribing across the radial lines. Then you center punch where these lines intersect for your bolt holes.

Here is my plate before it was plasma cut.
Pump Plate.jpg


Edited by boss351c, February 20, 2014 - 09:50 AM.

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#21 boss351c OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 06:31 AM

Got a little more done this weekend. Bolted the bellhousing onto the engine so I could center the plate and drill the holes to mount it. To center the pump pilot hole to the crank centerline I machined a bushing with a 3.25" OD and a 1 1/8" ID. This slid into the pump pilot and over the stub shaft mounted to the flywheel. Then I positioned the mounting holes for the pump at the correct 60* and clamped it all together. I drilled all eight (not the six I posted above) mounting holes. Then the holes in the bellhousing were tapped for 3/8 coarse bolts. 3/4" long allen head bolts were used to hold it all together.

The next step is to make a new engine side lovejoy connection so it all fits in the bellhousing. Once the pump is mounted to the engine I can finalize the engines position in the tractor and build the motor mounts.

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#22 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 06:38 AM

Nice job!!
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#23 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 05:19 PM

:iagree:  :iagree: 



#24 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 06:09 PM

Man is that a slick job!  I need to learn to at least try to do 1/4 as nice as you did that!   :thumbs:


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#25 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 07:15 PM

 That is Quality work your doing there!  :worshippy1: Very nice. :thumbs:

 

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#26 boss351c OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 05:43 AM

Thanks guys. I am just a self-taught hack on the machine tools, I just really try to have my finished projects look as close to factory built as possible.
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#27 boss351c OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2014 - 06:38 AM

Didn't get very far this weekend. My 4 year old daughter ended up with pneumonia this week so it was lots of in the house with her. Then sunday morning I ran out of propane for my shop heat. With the current cost I can run the line for natural gas from the house back for about 1/2 the cost of filling the 250 gallon propane tank! Just have to suffer through until spring now. I HATE winter!

Anyway, saturday I machined an aluminum plate to bolt to the flywheel for the engine side of the lovejoy for the pump. The original lovejoy is aluminum also. I had to machine the lovejoy down (shorter lengthwise) to fit in the bellhousing. Well, it was cast with lightening holes in it so it ended up breaking apart on the lathe. I might be able to save it, but I have a piece of 6 1/2" diameter steel coming today that I will be able to machine the whole thing out of in one piece.

So, the only thing productive I really got done on the project was to bolt the pump and bellhousing up and set it in the tractor to check the fit and figure out the engine mounts. I may be able to just bend the high pressure out line to get it to fit back on the pump. The engine mounts are as easy as cutting four small pieces of angle iron, drilling one hole in each, then welding them onto the mount that is already on the engine. Then just cut the other legs off the mount. It will work perfect. I also have more room in front of the engine now. There is over 2 inches from the front most part of the engine to the heat sheild behind the hyd oil tank.
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#28 boss351c OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 11:26 AM

No pictures to share this time.  Haven't had much time lately but I have started to make the pump drive in steel.  This step is going to be a lot of machining but should end up being a very strong part.  Basically it will be a 6 1/2" diameter, 1/4" thick plate to bolt to the flywheel, with a very short A-110 size lovejoy style 3 jaw coupler on it.  I also have the front two motor mounts made, just need to weld those on, then pull the engine again, trim the current feet off the motor mounts that came with the engine, then make and weld the rear mounts on.  I also made an angle iron piece to set on one of the lift cylinders to hold the loader up so I can move the tractor around the shop easier.  I need to finish this project by the time the snow melts and the yard drys up.  It's first project is to move some stone and sand behind my shop so I can build an 18' x 24' enclosed lean to to park the tractors in.



#29 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 12:54 PM

Thanks for the update.  :D



#30 boss351c OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2014 - 07:54 PM

Took today off from work so I could some some work in on the engine swap. Spent about nine hours at the lathe and mill and now have the pump drive 99% done. Just have to locate and drill the five 5/16" mounting holes. I started with a piece of 1018 hot rolled steel that was 6.5" diameter and 2" thick. I used the rotory table on the mill to machine the coupler jaws, then transferred to the lathe to whittle the rest of the drive down to size. This part was pretty tedious, but should be the only hard part of the swap. Once I get the engine mounts welded on I can try this out on the engine.

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