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No Go & No Blow Snow Blower


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#1 thom OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2014 - 09:42 AM

After dealing with issues and getting the engine on my "new" toro Power Handle with snowblower attachment running I probably found the reason it was retired. When I removed the clutch/pulley to remove the engine side case what I thought was half of a sheared key fell out. No big deal , thinks I, so I picked up a 3/16 keystock at the hardware store.Turns out the "key" was not a seperate piece with the other half still in the clutch/pulley. The part that fell out has actually sheared off.

 

torokeywaymissing_zps124c2e3e.jpeg

toroclutchinner_zps6a9bfbe4.jpeg

In the first pic you can see what I thought was the remaining half of the key. The second pic shows the outside of the piece that goes onto the crankshaft. Obviously with no way to secure the "hub" to the crankshaft the engine cannot pull the drive wheels or the attachment. The only way I can make it work is to either have a new hub or figure out a way to secure the hub to the crankshaft. I've thought of 2 or 3 set screws but that would be complicated because the other hafl of the belt drive pulley has to slide on the splines shown in pic # 2. Any suggestions ? Anybody got a spare clutch/pulley for a Toro Power Handle ? Thanks


Edited by thom, January 28, 2014 - 09:44 AM.

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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2014 - 02:24 PM

The first pic is just blurry enough I'm having troubles, but is it possible to have the piece (or a replacement) welded in place? I don't mean to weld the hub permanent or anything, but to repair the damage with new metal.
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#3 thom OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2014 - 03:17 PM

I think it would be very tough to weld down inside the bore.  Any weld would have to be machined , again very tough to do inside the 3/4" bore. The part is aluminum of some sort too. Cutting a new slot for a key would be an option but the part is too thin. The splined part would be very weak. The best idea I have come up with so far is to use set screws(probably 4). What if I drilled holes in the thickest parts of the splines where the ink pen is pointing in this photo ?

torohubsetscrews_zps8e055e87.jpeg

I'm thinking 2 set screws where the pen is pointing and two more 180 degrees away. Both pairs of set screws would be 90 degrees from the original key slot in the crankshaft. I would make the "dimples" in the crank for the set screws to hold on to.Anyone got a better idea? I would like to hear any suggestions. Thanks


Edited by thom, January 28, 2014 - 03:18 PM.


#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2014 - 04:07 PM

I would do 6 at 1/3 way around each. Also, might consider some green locktite to fill any gaps in (and make near on impossible to take apart later.)
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#5 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2014 - 07:08 PM

Do the set screws like MH81 said and if you don't care about the engine a lot I would drill through the part and the crank shaft and tap in a dowel pin and grind flush with spline,a roll pin might work instead but I don't think it would have the shear streght the dowel pin would have.
Also I would keep it a small size 1/8 inch max so you don't weaken the crank to much.
Just a though---Bill
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#6 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2014 - 09:53 AM

Instead of drilling or pinning, I would opt for installing the clutch to the crankshaft with just Loctite Bearing Mount.  .....I think that is the yellow-colored Loctite.

 

Allow the Loctite to set-up before using the machine.

 

This Loctite product is much stronger than the blue or red Loctite, but can be loosened in the future with very hot water.



#7 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2014 - 10:04 AM

That suxs, the mystery has been solved.

Thinking the set screws would work, another idea is to grind the ends of the set screw to a rounded point, when assembled the points bite into the crank, don't screw down too much or you will not be able to remove it, after marking the crank with the set screws using a center punch mark it and using a hand held drill just drill small indents into the crank for the setscrews to sit in, file down the burrs.

Don't know if this helps ?


Edited by trowel, January 29, 2014 - 10:04 AM.


#8 thom OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2014 - 04:12 PM

Trowel, that's pretty much what I had in mind. I bought the set screws today. They already have an end that will make a mark on the crank. Actually guys, if all this doesn't work I'm not out much.I paid $20 for the machine , spent $2 on a new point plunger, $2 for a carb float bowl gasket, a buck and a quarter for the set screws, and put fresh oil in the engine, so I can walk away from it and not lose sleep. The snow blower is a single stage model. I've never used a snow blower before , but I have heard that single stage blowers are not very efficient. Thanks.


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#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2014 - 07:09 PM

The single stage work OK. Darn sight better than a shovel.
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#10 thom OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2014 - 12:36 PM

An update on the clutchless snow blower... Forget the set screws and/or pins to hold the clutch to the crankshaft. The clutch cannot be put on a piece at a time like I was thinking of doing. Originally it was "keyed" to the shaft & had a bolt & washer in the end of the crankshaft to hold it on. The only way I can see to fix it would be a replacement like the original or a centrifugal clutch. What abount the cent. clutch? Thanks


Edited by thom, February 13, 2014 - 12:41 PM.

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#11 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2014 - 03:09 PM

Yes, that is a very good idea, do not know why i did not think of it consitering i have done this before,

a heavy duty V belt centrifugal clutch would work, i replaced the idler pulley clutch set up on the Arines M10D with the Centfugal clutch and used the idler pulley as a belt tensioner held back with a strong spring.

The clutch already had the key casted into the hub with a set screw, the end of the Yanmar was drilled and tapped like yours is so i used a bolt at the crank end.

I prefer the clutch using the throttle to stop the auger bucket, easier then pulling out of the snow, walking around and disengaging it.

The clutch i used kicks in at 1800 rpm, you can get one that kicks in at 2200 rpm.

The clutch i used is Hilliard Corp. heavy duty, 3/4 bore 2 3/4 pulley single V-belt for 1/2 belt.

Comet is another heavy duty rebuildable clutch i favor.


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