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Rear lift for MF10,12


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#1 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2011 - 07:23 PM

Pictures
masseys 095..jpg
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masseys 072..jpg
masseys 032..jpg

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#2 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2011 - 09:09 PM

Thanks Doug!

#3 GTReproductions OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 12:41 AM

Doug thanks for the photos.

Ok Guys, This accessory is just the type of item that peaks my interest as far as reproductions of metal components are concerned. Before pursuing the various aspects associated with developing any reproductions I need some input from the trenches.:poke:

How much interest is or do you think there would be? What price range do you think would need to be met in order to keep it within reach of most guys?

It doesn’t look all that difficult or complicated of an accessory to reproduce, (Famous last words) but sure looks like it would make the tractor much more versatile. It will be awhile before I can put hands on shop time in on it but wanted to get the wheels turning. Post your thoughts; I see alot of viewers on these posts; I know the usual group of guys will offer their input, don't be shy your opinion and knowledge count too!:blush2:

#4 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 06:01 AM

Thanks for the pics Doug.

#5 Rickski OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 06:21 AM

Awesome build. Thanks

#6 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 08:12 AM

Good going Doug.
You did an excellent job on fitting that 3-point to your tractor.

#7 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 06:50 PM

Guys I hope you didn't miss understand this is the factory rear lift kit that was a option on the MF10s, 12s.
I posted these pictures all together this way so that others could see all the pieces that came with it and use it as a reference so they could make there own.
There are 2 long bars shown, one is for the gear drive tractors, the other is for the hydra drive tractors, all other parts are the same for both types of tractors.
This rear lift kit is needed for the sleeve hitch so sleeve hitch attachments can be used, and for the factory tiller, MF650, it attaches directly to the rear lift.
I and others have made home made rear attachments that hook up to the rear lift. The box blade with the teeth I did make.
I did not make this rear lift and I should of made that clear from the start, sorry.

#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 11:06 PM

Doug, nice post, thanks for the pics, but I was wondering why you chose to use the arms & not build a sleeve hitch on this one.

I may be mistaken, but I thought you had some pics of a sleeve hitch on one of your tractors & was wondering the pro's & con's.
Thanks - Alan

#9 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2011 - 11:11 PM

Again, thanks for the photos and clarification about the hitch. I did notice that you did not have a photo of the rest of the hitch though. I figured that I would add this photo so everyone can see the rest of the set up. I do not remember which one of "us" this belongs to, but he is a member here or at MTF. Just note, the bolts are in from the wrong side to tension the attachment. See Todd's tractor below for the correct set up.

Posted Image

And just because it's so dang pretty... here it is on Todd's tractor. (sorry for the shameless photo theft there Todd)
Posted Image

As to Larry's question about building them. I think for a complete kit you may be able to get $150 to $250 for the hitch. Another option would be to sell parts. For example, if you had a way to form stamp the hitch itself, many would do the work on the brackets but buy the hitch itself. Or, maybe you need it for a box blade and do not have the use for the sleeve hitch itself.
Either way, I think once you have a system down, they would be very simple to make. Plus, the dimensions are already in pdf format. Here is a link to those for anyone who would like them. They are from the Yahoo-group site and not mine btw. If ANYBODY is good with cad drawings and feels like re-doing them all in CAD, I can print them back into pdf and update the link. One page is done in CAD, but they never finished them.

www.yankeetoys.org/lee/sleeve-hitch.pdf

One more thing to point out for anyone looking to make their own. I am not a big fan of the way Massey built the hitch itself. The ENTIRE attachment is connected only by the two welds on that tube. On top of that, the bolts try to push it off the frame when you tighten it. I am seriously debating making mine from 1" x 2" box tubing instead of the flat stock. With my lathe, I can bore a sleeve to weld into the tubing itself as well as make threaded sleeves that weld into the frame for the bolts. I think that design would be much stronger and easier to build really. The pin holes to the frame brackets could be sleeved and could even have bushings.

One other design would be to use the 2" flat stock for the sides, but use 2" square stock at the back. Using a design like the one below, with three holes (with sleeved bushings welded in) would be very easy to make and give you the ability to offset the tool. Plus, it makes for a clean looking and easy to build hitch. (Photo found on the net, but I have seen this here or there too) I am pretty sure this may be the style I build for mine. Done like this, I think it will look more like a multi-hole upgrade hitch for the Massey, not a "home-made" sleeve hitch.

Posted Image

Edited by FirefyterEmt, January 06, 2011 - 11:42 PM.


#10 GTReproductions OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2011 - 07:38 AM

Doug, I had ran this idea past Lee before I posted my earlier comment/questions and based on his observations I had assumed your photos were of a factory made unit. My 10 does not have the lift/hitch assembly so the photos you posted were very helpful.

Just a clarification from my end; I realize that many here have the skills and the tools to make these and other similar types of fabrications which I think is great and a great resource for all of us to pull from. All the guys here have skills to one degree or another or we wouldn't be tinkering around with these type of tractors. I love it when the discussions get down to the nut and bolt issues and everyone starts offering their ideas and where they have experienced or see weak areas of an item and ways of improving them. I believe that is part of why this site exists. Thanks to Lee for using his skills to not only organize the data for easier access but also offer up great ideas on ways to beaf things up and make it even more usefull. If we do get around to where we can offer these I'm more than willing to break it down to specific parts as needed on an individual basis.

#11 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2011 - 07:25 PM

Doug, nice post, thanks for the pics, but I was wondering why you chose to use the arms & not build a sleeve hitch on this one.

I may be mistaken, but I thought you had some pics of a sleeve hitch on one of your tractors & was wondering the pro's & con's.
Thanks - Alan


I do have a sleeve hitch, homemade, that I got last year sometime, the original one that I got when I bought my first MF12Hydra was traded of for some other parts. When I made the box scraper I can't remember whether I had a sleeve hitch at the time and the way I made it was done so that it could be hooked up to a tractor without the sleeve hitch.

Picture of the sleeve hitch I now have.
66 MF10 005.jpg

This is a picture of the rear lift on a gear drive left, and a hydra drive right, hydra drive has the tiller spring assist bracket on it.
66 MF10 012.jpg

These are pictures of the box blade that I made shown mounted on a hydra drive tractor.
masseys 032..jpg

As you can see it's reversible one way digs and loosens the surface, the other way smooths it out. I have found that for me this works best after a good rain when the drive is softened up a bit.
It can be used to drag the material forward or to push like a plow backwards.
masseys 094..jpg

When pushing backwards the angle can be adjusted by mounting the box blade in lower or higher holes on the rear lift, also it really digs in, too much to the point of the tractor stops moving backwards. I found that by using the main lift arm you came find the right spot to limit how far down it goes.

If you hold a straight edge across the back of the 2 rear tires and measure the distance to the rear plate you will find about 2 to 3" difference, the hydra rear plate is closer to the back than the gear drive. Found this out when I tried to put the box blade on a gear drive tractor and couldn't because the tires were in the way. My box blade was made for a hydra tractor, to make it fit the gear drive the arms need to be lengthened.
The other problem I find with my box blade is that it is not flexible side to side up down at all, it follows the level of the rear tires, if the left tire goes in a pot hole the left side of the blade goes down and the right side goes up. When I use it and I come to a pot hole I straddle the hole so this doesn't happen.
When I modify my box blade I will lengthen the arms and stiffen them up, they are not strong enough side to side. Pushing backwards while turning they bend.
This blade is 4ft wide and if I made another one I would make it 5ft wide, I believe the tractor can handle it and it would work better in smoothing making the driveway flat.
Also if you raise the box blade stand on it, jump up and down you can see the frame of the tractor flexing, something to consider when adding rear weight to the tractor.

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  • masseys 037..jpg

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#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2011 - 12:49 AM

My son did a partial mock-up on SketchUp from these drawings, Here's the link to the 2D exportation:MF10/12 Sleeve Hitch Sketchup - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums

I hope to talk him into doing the rest of the brackets and lift assemblies, but he was most interested in doing the parts that are missing from his tractor.

#13 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2011 - 05:25 AM

Good looking set up.

#14 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2011 - 08:46 AM

I would really look into placing the pin tube on the inside of the bracket. Even if you needed to make it say an inch longer to offset it, I really do not like the idea of the entire attachment held on by only two 1" long welds to a pipe. When placed on the inside, the pin pipe pulls against the draw-bar itself and is not trying to pull the welds off either.

#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2011 - 09:04 AM

I would really look into placing the pin tube on the inside of the bracket. Even if you needed to make it say an inch longer to offset it, I really do not like the idea of the entire attachment held on by only two 1" long welds to a pipe. When placed on the inside, the pin pipe pulls against the draw-bar itself and is not trying to pull the welds off either.


I wondered about that, and have seen pics of them both ways. I wonder if the early ones were outside & the newer ones were inside?

IDK how hard it will be to change, but maybe he can do it both ways? I'll ask him.




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