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#16 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 27, 2014 - 08:20 PM

I got the drawing finished. It can be found here.


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#17 nglauer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2014 - 12:20 AM

I posted a PDF for the later model 3pt that was used on the HT model's - it can be found on this thread. http://gardentractor...tch#entry398211


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#18 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2014 - 06:16 PM

Ok So i am hopefully going to buy steel tomorrow i am going to start with the 3 Point hitch i know the plans say 1/4" thickness but im worried if that is thick enough does anyone have the thickness of the factory 18010 lift arms.



#19 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2014 - 06:19 AM

Thanks that was the only think i didn't like about those plans was the lack of ball joints since when you adjust the hitch so the plow is level while in the dirt it may bind. But for a box blade or sleeve hitch adapter A frame it would work perfectly since your arms would always be level.

 
I had to go out and look at my welder and your right it says without beveling with gas like its set up with i can do 1/4". Also no one would object to you making those plans a PDF but maybe you can re size them so they aren't so blurry. It would also be awesome to get those 3 point plans on the forum as well i booked marked the page for now.
 
 
But my question for the post is going to be the plans for the sleeve hitch say 3/8" but would 1/4" be sufficient enough i could always ad some bracing on the inside of the hitch. as this seems to be the easiest to make first.


I use a 110v Lincoln Mig welder and it handles 3/8" fine if I bevel the edges. I just welded ball ends on the lower arms of my home-built hitch for my HT23. I use flux core, though 'cause you get a little better penetration. Another trick is to pre heat your steel with a torch before welding. Just get it good and warm.

Be aware that the early LFs used the 18010 hitch, while the later series 1886s and HTs use the 18086 hitch.

Smitty
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#20 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2014 - 07:11 AM

I use a 110v Lincoln Mig welder and it handles 3/8" fine if I bevel the edges. I just welded ball ends on the lower arms of my home-built hitch for my HT23. I use flux core, though 'cause you get a little better penetration. Another trick is to pre heat your steel with a torch before welding. Just get it good and warm.

Be aware that the early LFs used the 18010 hitch, while the later series 1886s and HTs use the 18086 hitch.

Smitty

 

Thank you very much for your advise i don't have a torch and it is next on the home supply list so i think ill just go with 3/8" and just bevel the edges. The plans i have are for the 18010 hitch. The major question i have where did you get your ball ends i've searched and come up with nothing for a supplier.



#21 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2014 - 09:06 AM

I got mine here. Part # CC-36-002, $9.50 each.



#22 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2014 - 06:33 PM

Thank you very much for your advise i don't have a torch and it is next on the home supply list so i think ill just go with 3/8" and just bevel the edges. The plans i have are for the 18010 hitch. The major question i have where did you get your ball ends i've searched and come up with nothing for a supplier.

I got mines from Belarus Supply. You can find them online. You'll need the CAT 0 size--they're about $6 each.

Smitty

#23 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2014 - 07:08 PM

Thank you very much for your advise i don't have a torch and it is next on the home supply list so i think ill just go with 3/8" and just bevel the edges. The plans i have are for the 18010 hitch. The major question i have where did you get your ball ends i've searched and come up with nothing for a supplier.

Even a propane torch will help--or even put your steel inside next to a heat register. (Original done on a "smart" phone with an all thumbs operator).

Smitty


Edited by Utah Smitty, January 31, 2014 - 02:04 AM.





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