Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Sleeve Bearings For Front Axle


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

Dave Central NY
  • Member
  • Member No: 27835
  • 106 Thanks
  • 92 posts
  • Location: Sherburne NY

Posted January 18, 2014 - 05:11 PM

I had some pretty sloppy sleeve bearings in my front axle spindles so I got some  Bronze sleeve bearings from McMaster Carr to tighten things up. Here's the sizes and part numbers in case you need them.

Sleeve Bearing --part #6391K425  for 1 1/8"shaft  1 3/8" OD and 1 inch long

109_0166.JPG take the tires and wheels , tie rods, and steering arms. Remove the large nut from the bolt that holds the front axle on and remove the axle.

109_0165.JPG   Lay the front axle on the bench, find a 3/4"rod about 10" long and drive out   the old bushings

109_0169.JPG 109_0171.JPG This is where  you find out the bushings on the large bolt are different, you may even have roller bearings  in there. Check the sleeves with a magnet and you find those two sleeves are Cast Bronze. Not to worry, regular bronze sleeves will replace the Cast bronze or roller bearing.

Clean it up good and get all the metal shavings out of the axle. Then find a piece of  redi-rod  some nuts and washers and your ready to reinstall the new  sleeve bearings.

109_0172.JPG Try to remember which tractor you're working on, clean up the spindles put some grease on the spindles and bushings,  and reassemble axle, spindles and steering arms put the spindle nuts on loose while you put the axle back on the tractor.  I put this picture in to show the difference in the length of spindle between a 24 14 and a 16 14.

While your working on the front end, you might as well take the tie rods off the steering arms and clean up the tie rod ends and grease them. If you need new ones you can get a good price on better ones from Surplus Center on line.109_0173.JPG

Then there's the steering rod from the left spindle to the steering gear box. you will probably find some wear on the ball bolts on each end of the steering rod, try to make it smooth or get a new one.109_0175.JPG 109_0174.JPG

One picture is out of place but you can figure out where it goes.  This really made a difference in how easy it steers.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 109_0168.JPG

  • MH81, Alc, Sawdust and 2 others have said thanks

#2 Bill 76 ONLINE  

Bill 76
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 49625
  • 1,646 Thanks
  • 1,060 posts
  • Location: 5miles west of Milwaukee Wisconsin

Posted January 18, 2014 - 05:51 PM

What year PK are you working on? I have a 1971 16/14 and will be replacing mine soon,Thanks for the tip.

#3 Sawdust OFFLINE  

Sawdust
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 36549
  • 4,523 Thanks
  • 2,831 posts
  • Location: Butler, Kentucky

Posted January 18, 2014 - 06:13 PM

Nice job of tightening things up a bit.



#4 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

Dave Central NY
  • Member
  • Member No: 27835
  • 106 Thanks
  • 92 posts
  • Location: Sherburne NY

Posted January 18, 2014 - 06:30 PM

What year PK are you working on? I have a 1971 16/14 and will be replacing mine soon,Thanks for the tip.

This job was on a 1978.  The long spindle in one of the pictures is from a 2414 that I have no idea of the year. I'm in the process or rebuilding it and adding a 3pt. I changed the engine and was going to change the serial number tag then noticed that the tag said Jim Dandy . I t may never have a tag.


  • Bill 76 said thank you

#5 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

glgrumpy

    Getting Out!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8360
  • 6,670 Thanks
  • 6,486 posts
  • Location: Huntington, IN 46750 North East in State

Posted January 18, 2014 - 10:02 PM

That works for most years of Economy PK's.  Suprised  you can use flanged bushings. Thinking you need non-flanged to give clearance for the steer arms on top. Should replace the thrust bearings there on spindles too, can still get those. There is a ridge down inside the main axle ends that the bushing seats against instead of the flange.  Can use same size in center and as you said, some have bushings and others had needle bearings. Can interchange either way. Make sure that center bolt on frame is solid. Sometimes the welds break on back of front xmember and or the nut breaks loose depending on which you have, it varied. Suprised you could find just the ball for the steering, I usually just replace the ends, which no longer are adjustable or repairable. the bigger ones on the steer link might be easier to find, as used on some bigger tractors too. The ends of that link I have never had to replace, but have found them assembled wrong. Make sure use right parts with holes in them to allow grease to go into that joint. Remove the grease zerks there and poke thru the old grease and clean out that area good, many times it is plugged up with dirt and gunk over the years.  Replace all the zerks too.



#6 Brian Humphrey OFFLINE  

Brian Humphrey
  • Member
  • Member No: 63094
  • 2 Thanks
  • 5 posts
  • Location: Granville NY

Posted November 08, 2014 - 04:32 AM

exactly what I was looking for thank you



#7 MNGB ONLINE  

MNGB
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62466
  • 1,020 Thanks
  • 840 posts
  • Location: Minnesota

Posted November 08, 2014 - 01:03 PM

Hi Dave thanks for the good post with photos good information.






Top