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1977 312


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#46 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2014 - 01:55 PM

Worked on the replacement block this morning.  Got the cam and followers out of the engine without much problem.  I will have the machine shop remove the valves when they check out the block.  I hope to drop it off next week.  


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#47 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2014 - 12:47 PM

Bringing this back to the top - Talked with a guy from church who told me of an old school machine shop in Belle Plaine that does all kinds of good machine work.  He thinks this block is savable with a sleeve which would put me at standard bore to go with the NOS piston and rod that I have.  Same guy told me of a local than can fix the crack in the block for not much expense.  I am going to dig into this after Christmas when I have some free time.  Between Christmas prep and little one at home I am a bit preoccupied.


Edited by Trav1s, December 22, 2014 - 04:06 PM.

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#48 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2014 - 12:46 PM

Finally a significant update on the 312

 

Made a trip to a highly recommended machine shop this morning and had a great conversation about sleeving a K series.  This's guy opinion is don't do it on a machine that is going to be used, especially worked.  There is something about the difference in the cast iron materials used in the block and the sleeve and the sleeve does not stand up.  

 

Now to dig into the other block I picked up and see if it is standard or will need to go over.  


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#49 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2015 - 09:13 PM

Finally an update on this project that feels like is going nowhere.

I scored a NOS Kohler K301 block (standard bore) on eBay last week.  I will have less in it than I would have had in than I would have had in another used block and machine work  It arrived and I am excited to do some clean-up work on the intake and exhaust ports then bolt things together using my Kohler NOS standard bore rebuild kit. I need to order a few parts from Kirk for it too.  I also want to install an hour meter from day one so I know how many hours I get out of it.  

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Edited by Trav1s, February 05, 2015 - 09:18 PM.

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#50 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2015 - 12:44 PM

I grabbed a tape measure and compared the bottom of the three blocks. The block that came in the 312 isa bit wider than the '68 140 k301 and the NOS k301 I just picked up. I also measures the spacing between the bolt holes on all all three blocks - all three are the same.

 

After a quick inventory of parts I have the following K301 parts:

  • 3 blocks (one bad)
  • 3 cams (all good, one brand new still in plastic) and lifters
  • 4 intake and 4 exhaust valves
  • 4 governor assemblies (one NOS and one damaged NOS)

Edited by Trav1s, February 07, 2015 - 06:02 PM.


#51 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 09:00 AM

Did a bit more work on the new block yesterday and removed the following items:

  • Cam/lifters
  • Main bearing
  • Governor (shaft damaged during shipping)
  • Points

Need to pull the valves so I can clean up the intake and exhaust ports while it is apart.  Still need the tool to remove the valve spring retainers.


Edited by Trav1s, February 21, 2015 - 09:00 AM.


#52 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 09:24 AM

Travis

if you were closer you could use mine

 

found this on Amazon

http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B000P0VTG4

under $20 shipped

 

at O"Reily's for $21.99 

http://www.oreillyau...00.oap?pt=N0717


Edited by lyall, February 21, 2015 - 09:26 AM.

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#53 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 09:42 AM

I am going to check Harbor Freight later with my 20% off coupon and see what I can find.  If HF is a no go then I will likely go the Amazon or O'Rieley's route.  Thanks!


Edited by Trav1s, February 21, 2015 - 09:43 AM.


#54 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2015 - 04:52 PM

Harbor Freight was a no go so I am gonna grab one off of Amazon.  What is a bit more waiting on this project.



#55 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2015 - 03:30 PM

Here are the three blocks together.

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#56 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2015 - 04:38 PM

Been doing some thinking about how to mount the old style block in the new style mounts used on the 312.  

 

This is what I came up with - make a cradle that will mount the old style block to the 312 mounts. Make the mount out of 1/4" steel and weld angle iron to that plate. The 120/140 use a solid mount to the frame and the pan for this engine has holes in it for the solid mount. Another option is to use long studs and nuts to hold the pan to the block and then use another nut to hold the bracket to the pan. 

I have attached a few pics of a cardboard mockup. The only problems I can see are not enough clearance in the frame and decreased airflow across the aluminum oil pan. Neither of these seem like a deal breaker. Your thoughts?

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#57 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2015 - 04:40 PM

Another easier option would be to cut a piece of sheet steel to fit between the block and the pan and bolt them together using two pan gaskets.  This option would raise the centerline of the crank over 3/8" and I am not comfortable with that approach.  



#58 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 08:11 AM

A bit more on the 312...

 

Got it home and power washed it at the local pay-n-spray car wash.  Did a mock-up with the original block and oil pan to measure clearances between the pan and frame.  I have 7/8" clearance so my proposed adapter that bolts to the oil pan should do the job.  After doing some more looking I found that one of the rear rubber isolators/mounts is bad and the steering is really sloppy.  Both will get attention before it goes back together.  I am also looking to install the 316k H2 set-up on it while apart.  Removed the incorrect steering wheel and trashed plastic dash and will replace both of them with correct pieces.  Also, going to fix some cracks in the sheet metal and give it a coat of paint.  

 

I see where this is going...


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#59 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 08:26 AM

Sounds like fun! On that JD oil pan, what is the distance from where it mounts to the engine down to the frame mounts?



#60 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2015 - 02:55 PM

Here are a few pics for reference.  This machine uses the block with the cast-in ears.  My proposed cradle will attach to the pan and come up to the factory engine mounts.  You can see the original block with the pan installed sitting on the factory mounts in these pics:

 

7EA34001-8461-4450-95D7-11E97A775D22_zps

 

B5AC763F-645E-46D6-8094-E69FDA25BC22_zps

 

5EBAA3DA-62BE-4F7F-86A5-176B7C2A2CA4_zps

 

9812B84C-D4AE-45B4-96B1-4BA04101C48B_zps

 

92B62577-A75F-4CD4-899B-DC364C9CF96D_zps

 

C07962B7-177A-4C8A-ADD1-4ED21CD4D355_zps






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