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Ford Lgt 145... A Work In Progress


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#1 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2014 - 07:27 PM

I finally got around to messing with my 145 last night (after owning it for almost a year :wallbanging:  ) and I got her to fire up for the first time in who knows how long.  After replacing the fuel pump, lines, spark plug, wire, condenser and points, rebuilding the carb, temporarily bypassing several safety switches that I couldn't get to work, borrowing an ignition switch from my Cub 782 and using a remote starter switch to activate the solenoid I finally had...intermittent spark, lol.  More troubleshooting led me to the coil so I borrowed the one out of my Cub 123 and to my amazement it worked (that tractor is another basket case that I'll hopefully get to soon) and she fired right up  :dancingbanana:

 

Runs great!  No smoke, no funny noises or anything else and runs pretty smooth.  Apparently the hydro trans works too as it ran over my foot in reverse when I throttled it up a little bit...I thought I had it in neutral but as it turns out neutral is hard to find.  That's it for the good news; now the bad news:  I need lots of parts.

 

Can anyone point me to where I can get an ignition switch along with the connector/pigtail that I could solder into the harness?  Mine is pretty badly corroded.  Along those lines I need the PTO switch as well and I can't find one of those.

 

Once I can get some parts on order I can hopefully start making some progress on the old girl soon, I want her to see a plow day this year!

 

Now the required pics before I get in trouble...

 

IMAG0144.jpg

 

IMAG0145.jpg

 

Any suggestions or ideas on restoring the plastic panels for the dash and tunnel cover?  They're in good shape as far cracking goes but are quite dull and weathered.  There's products out there to coat the plastic or I could possibly paint them but looking to see what others have done...?

 

IMAG0146.jpg


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#2 Jagman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2014 - 09:35 AM

Looks like you have your hands full. My 145 was giving me fits all last year witha problem I never have figured out - yet. It's a long story, but I do have theparts you're looking for. In trying to fix the problem, I replaced a lot of parts, including the ignition switch that I believe was not related to the problem and is OK, and bought a new five-wire switch pigtail that I never used. If you're interested, $30 buys them both, including postage. Email me at awiedie@yahoo.com for more info.

Alan

#3 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2014 - 07:10 AM

What's the problem with the pto switch?
Did you know you have to pull the toggle out to move it?
It's a safty device. Not easy to detect!
I think I got my ignition switch off of partstree.com.

Joe

#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2014 - 08:26 AM

If you don't mind one off a 'green' machine, I found a bunch on epay. Here's one PTO switch. Ignition switches are available at parts stores, but get the right one.



#5 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2014 - 05:45 PM

Looks like you have your hands full. My 145 was giving me fits all last year witha problem I never have figured out - yet. It's a long story, but I do have theparts you're looking for. In trying to fix the problem, I replaced a lot of parts, including the ignition switch that I believe was not related to the problem and is OK, and bought a new five-wire switch pigtail that I never used. If you're interested, $30 buys them both, including postage. Email me at awiedie@yahoo.com for more info.

Alan

 

Thanks for the offer, I'll keep you in mind and give you a heads up when I get closer to actually needing it.

What's the problem with the pto switch?
Did you know you have to pull the toggle out to move it?
It's a safty device. Not easy to detect!
I think I got my ignition switch off of partstree.com.

Joe

 

The switch flips just fine, the "pull to unlock" function no longer works, it's rusted in the "pulled" position.  The issue is that it's not making the connections that it should.  It's a 5 terminal switch and if memory serves correctly 3 of the terminals actually run the PTO clutch, the other 2 are a safety circuit (or maybe I have that backwards, I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me).  Either way, the safety circuit is not operational and won't allow power to the ignition unless I bypass that switch.  I thought about trying to take it apart on the off chance that I could just clean the contacts but the whole thing is so darn rusty I'm just going to replace it.

 

If you don't mind one off a 'green' machine, I found a bunch on epay. Here's one PTO switch. Ignition switches are available at parts stores, but get the right one.

 

I don't care what color machine it's intended for as long as it doesn't have a big "Deere" stamped on the toggle lol.  I'm going to try to see if the other Napa in the area is easier to deal with than the one I used to go to, maybe I can match it up there.


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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2014 - 05:51 PM

Thanks for the offer, I'll keep you in mind and give you a heads up when I get closer to actually needing it.

 

The switch flips just fine, the "pull to unlock" function no longer works, it's rusted in the "pulled" position.  The issue is that it's not making the connections that it should.  It's a 5 terminal switch and if memory serves correctly 3 of the terminals actually run the PTO clutch, the other 2 are a safety circuit (or maybe I have that backwards, I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me).  Either way, the safety circuit is not operational and won't allow power to the ignition unless I bypass that switch.  I thought about trying to take it apart on the off chance that I could just clean the contacts but the whole thing is so darn rusty I'm just going to replace it.

 

 

I don't care what color machine it's intended for as long as it doesn't have a big "Deere" stamped on the toggle lol.  I'm going to try to see if the other Napa in the area is easier to deal with than the one I used to go to, maybe I can match it up there.

Sounds like a good idea to get a new one! I think any 5 terminal should work okay. I looked for new, but didn't see anything. Most of those were for newer equipment and wouldn't go with what you have in mind, plus a lot more terminals.



#7 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2014 - 05:21 AM

Nice rig their! For the plastics, Castrol SuperKleen them with a good scrub brush is all that's needed. Then you can highlight all the raised surfaces and print with a white paint pen! Easy Peasy!!
As for that naughty Pto switch... DPDT safety awitch is what I used.

#8 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2014 - 07:46 AM

Thanks Keith, that's the info I was looking for on the plastic parts! I don't know why I didn't think of just using a DPDT switch, I've got a drawer full of 'em lol.

Here she is with all the tin removed, all in all it doesn't look too bad, it's extremely dirty but very little rust, most the paint is still there and aside from a busted up cooling fan for the hydro there weren't really any surprises. I wish I had somewhere warm I could do some power washing but with no floor drains in my shop that's out of the question. I guess I'll keep plugging away on the disassembly and wait for a warm enough day to give her a good bath. I need to get my 120 finished up anyways so maybe being forced to slow down on this one will be good for my other rigs :D

uploadfromtaptalk1390048910607.jpg
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#9 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2014 - 08:10 AM

I used krylon paint for the base, then the smallest brush I could find for letters, but a paint marker would've been easier.
One of the last posts in this thread is of the "good enough" dash.
http://gardentractor...ation/?p=267981

You've got a nice looking surface there, not many or any broken pcs to deal with.

#10 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2014 - 09:38 AM

Thanks Alan, if yours was repairable mine is practically mint :D

I'll probably start on the small pieces like that while I wait on money and parts to do the big stuff...
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#11 FixItCharlie OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2014 - 08:56 PM

Nice looking tractor. If you decide to totally rewire it this is fairly easy. On my LGT100 it had so many splices & bare wires that I rewire it. Doing this I was also to repair the safety equipment in doing it. There is one change that I made that I found to be very handy & that was the installation of a fuse block with multiple fuses instead of the individual inline fuses. Here is a picture to help you see what I did.

 

Tractor3.jpg         Tractor4.jpg


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