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Should Stick To What I Know......

theres mud in your eye drywall

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#16 Delmar ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 12:18 AM

My best suggestion is to hire one of those guys you saw doing it professionally.  u can find 'em on craigs....some will work for trade.  no fuss, no muss.  A LOT less hassle.


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#17 Team_Green OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 12:25 AM

You mention buckets of mud.. Did you read the instructions? I know some of em require up to a liter of water added to them. It makes a big difference.


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#18 lyall OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 12:52 AM

drywall finishing can to fun - but you need to practice 

I only  have is the square butt joints 

 

my wife's uncle show how to use a sponge with a little water.  he did it instead  of sanding.  he was good at it.

saves a lot of time sanding and no dust.  and you remove it much just put a thin coat of mud over it.


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#19 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 02:39 AM

Corner trowel is great. I use a flat plywood or buy the metal tray to put a gob of mud on and you can work it with one of those 12 to 14" drywall trowels. Scraping it off the board to get even load on trowel. Those trowels are arched up in middle and allow mud to build up thicker over the tape in center of joint. Can't use that same trowel for up/down movements or will cut out at ends of trowel. This is assuming you have board layed sideways and have One big seem in center of wall and not one every 4ft if boards were vertical???  I never liked the self-stick mesh tape. Takes more mud to cover. I measure and or cut the tape to length of joint, dip it through a pan of water and run it between two fingers to get off most of the water. After first fill of mud, lay tape into it some, it sticks good when wet. Then use the trowel over that with a small load of mud to imbed the tape. That is all I usually put on in first try. Let it dry.  Can use trowel or big wide putty knife to knock off any high ridges you left from edge of trowel. Then go over another coat and get wider with it. Let dry. I sand with hand block only, an electric makes lots of fine dust that gets all over house no matter how well you think it is sealed in room. Gets into heat ductwork too.  I also have used just a wet sponge for no dust. Get one of those real big yellow sponges about 4 x 6 or so and 2" thick. Wet it good, but squeeze most of water out and keep it flat to wall and not much pressure to smooth the mud.  Apply a third coat real thin and try to keep that one with less bumps or marks and spread even wider if needed. 


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#20 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 07:07 AM

Troy, it just takes a lot of practice. I've gotten to the point now where I can produce professional results but it takes me a lot longer than a true pro. I hate paper tape. I use FG everywhere, even in corners. I start with a narrow knife and go wider at each coat. I probably put on more  layers to get a finish than a pro would, but in the end it looks good. I also start with a joint filling coat of durabond 90 or similiar to give the seam strength. Ceilings are particularly difficult. 

  One piece of advice would be to slow down and not think about how quickly a pro does it. As can be seen by all the responses, there are a lot of different variations on how to get it done. You need time to figure out what will work for you. 


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#21 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 08:33 AM

YEa, pretty much practice, practice, practice. I hate mudding, but can do a decent job. Other than for scooping out of bucket, I do not use any drywall flat trowels, I actually use an old concrete long trowel for my mudding. Dad used it fro 50 yrs, it's razor sharp but puts a nice finish. I guess they have them inthe drywall tool section also.

I tried the wet sanding method, yeah, made more of a mess and had to redo spots. I'll stick to my dry sand and a shop vac.

 

And don't try to put it all on at one time. Make sure tape is bedded good, but then build up other layers. If done right, little to no sanding required at the end.


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#22 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 08:40 AM

Corner trowel is great. I use a flat plywood or buy the metal tray to put a gob of mud on and you can work it with one of those 12 to 14" drywall trowels. Scraping it off the board to get even load on trowel. Those trowels are arched up in middle and allow mud to build up thicker over the tape in center of joint. Can't use that same trowel for up/down movements or will cut out at ends of trowel. This is assuming you have board layed sideways and have One big seem in center of wall and not one every 4ft if boards were vertical??? I never liked the self-stick mesh tape. Takes more mud to cover. I measure and or cut the tape to length of joint, dip it through a pan of water and run it between two fingers to get off most of the water. After first fill of mud, lay tape into it some, it sticks good when wet. Then use the trowel over that with a small load of mud to imbed the tape. That is all I usually put on in first try. Let it dry. Can use trowel or big wide putty knife to knock off any high ridges you left from edge of trowel. Then go over another coat and get wider with it. Let dry. I sand with hand block only, an electric makes lots of fine dust that gets all over house no matter how well you think it is sealed in room. Gets into heat ductwork too. I also have used just a wet sponge for no dust. Get one of those real big yellow sponges about 4 x 6 or so and 2" thick. Wet it good, but squeeze most of water out and keep it flat to wall and not much pressure to smooth the mud. Apply a third coat real thin and try to keep that one with less bumps or marks and spread even wider if needed

turn the trowel over.


Edited by OkieGt, January 12, 2014 - 08:58 PM.


#23 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 10:12 AM

Buy the green bucket compound. Do not thin it. Start with a taping knife I like a 5 inch. Do not play with the mud. don't over load your knife and use good pressure but don't kill it. You don't want to squeeze all the mud out the sides.

I am no expert. My grandfather did a lot of drywall finishing professionally. He taught me a lot. It takes tons and tons or practice. After probably doing 30 or 40 rooms between various houses and friends I'm better
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#24 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 10:22 AM

A timely thread , as soon as I finish this I will be heading to my sons house to do drywall finishing lol . I can get good results  but I take wayyyyy longer then a pro .  I gave up on using paper tape , just never had good luck . I use the self sticking mesh and do the whole area ,for the corners I use a  corner trowel  mentioned to push it in place ,  (I've cut into the tape trying get it in with a  flat knife , didn't work for me ) . I'll mix the joint compound in the bucket and use a 6" knife to put about a qt in  SS  mud pan mine is 14" so it's  easier  when you get to the end if your using a 12" knife like I use . Depends how smooth I mixed it I might try a little more when it's in the mud pan , using the 6" knife put it into the corner at a right angle trying to push it into the crack as best as you can , then go back over with the corner tool to smoothen it out  .   I try to take my time with the corners because if you can get it looking good the next pass you can use a flat knife just about to the corner ,  the joints that have tapered ends are pretty easy the first coat cover just enough to cover the tape .Butt joints are a little trickery , still don't try to put too much on ,  I don't put on anything thicker that would need sanding , just light coats ,8" then 12" knifes and before each coat I'll go over the surface and knock off any little high spot from the knife edge .I won't sand to the last coat with a mesh drywall sander .   Figure like most of us that don't do it as a living , it's going to take you 4 or more coats to get a good job on some spots. Good lighting helps a lot and figure a good coat of primer , and then you still might need to touch up a spot or two before painting . Good Luck


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#25 KC9KAS ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 10:55 AM

Don't feel too bad....I paid good money to have a professional company do my drywall in my house and it looks like something a grade-school class finished!


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#26 JoeMopar OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 11:05 AM

I don't like the mesh tape, especially for corners. I'm not a professional (speed) cause like anything else the speed comes when you do it on a daily basis, but as far as a finish I can hold my own. Oh yeah it helps when you're french canadian ( in your genes somewhat). :thumbs:


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#27 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 11:43 AM

After you finish the drywall if you will use a PVC (poly-vinyl-acrylic) primer you will really get a better job, without a true PVC primer, your wasting your time, don't even prime.

EDIT: I meant PVA


Edited by OkieGt, January 12, 2014 - 08:59 PM.

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#28 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 12:16 PM

I don't like the mesh tape, especially for corners. I'm not a professional (speed) cause like anything else the speed comes when you do it on a daily basis, but as far as a finish I can hold my own. Oh yeah it helps when you're french canadian ( in your genes somewhat). :thumbs:


I hate the mesh or any self adhesive tapes. I have never had any luck with those things. I never liked a corner trowel.

Best advice here. Don't worry about speed. Speed comes with years of practice.

Take your time and experiment. It sands down if you screw it up. Those foam sand blocks are great and get yourself a dry we screen sander on a pole.
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#29 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 12:20 PM

After you finish the drywall if you will use a PVC (poly-vinyl-acrylic) primer you will really get a better job, without a true PVC primer, your wasting your time, don't even prime.

 

You mean pva, correct? I don't want to hear about Troy trying to use Krylon aerosol in an enclosed space.


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#30 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 12:46 PM

You mean pva, correct? I don't want to hear about Troy trying to use Krylon aerosol in an enclosed space.


I use a good kilnz drywall primer.
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