made! I needed some 2" X 3/8" pins for the front blade on my Homelite. I went to the local ACE and they have the "Flat Headed" pins in 1 1/2" and the same with multiple holes in it. They wanted about the same for each $1.95 + tax. Now I am a fan of the old "Round Head or Rivet Head" style like the few original pins I have. I got to thinking ( my wife said OH OH!). I can go to Tractor Supply and buy some 3/8 " X 5" bolts that are $ 1.29 a pound and make as many as I want. After picking them up yesterday I got in the garage this afternoon and made me a few. I used my $2.00 garage sale Craftsman 6" bench grinder , Porter Cable cordless sawzall, PC Drill and my antique Stump Vise. The most important tool was the gloves. In case you don't remember my last encouter with a grinder.
Anyway, I took the bolt and ground the square edges off and rounded it out to resemble the old pins. Next I took it to the vise after measuring the proper length to cut. I cut it with the sawzall and then figured where the hole for the pin needed to be. after marking that I used a two step drilling process. I used a smaller bit to drill the pilot hole and then a 1/8" bit to drill the finish hole. Next I took the, now pin, back to the grinder and ground the non head end flat removing any burs. As well I touched the side of the pin to the wheel where the hole is to make a small divit and to remove and drilling burs. I put the pin in and then it is done. I plan on sanding them up a bit and and painting them with the blue I have for the deck making them look a lot like the original ones. I made 6, 2" pins in about 25 min.. I still have enough bolts left to make several more 2" and several of what ever length up to about 4" that I need.
Here are a few pictures. My camera doesn't do the pins justice. I can't get a good close up of the pins. Thanks Roger.
Yup, I have a bolt bucket. I keep things like that for future use. I have already used one piece in a small shelf where I needed a pin with threads on it. thanks. Roger.
Thanks for the tip Roger,Its allways nice when a plan turns out the way you want it to and I find its fun to make things myself and its always fun to save a few bucks.
Very nice Roger! You did a great job on those. :urock:
I know EXACTLY what you mean about the old OEM acorn head pins. I'm not sure what tractor mfg's used them, but I know Simplicity used them as late as my 2000 Sovereign, and as early as the early walkbehind's.
I hoard them...whenever anything goes out the door, it goes WITHOUT those pins. I have a small drawer full, but it seems there are never enough!
Hard to find those pins w/out the many holes. Would think they would weaken them for sure. PK tractors have lots of bolt head looking pins with drilled holes, they didn't round the heads. I've made them that way too. I did find better ones and in bigger diameters in Farm and Fleet store but in drawers in the hardware aisle, not the farm hitch aisle. Those drawers tho, never have many even when they order more, so usually luck to find 2 or 3, when you need six say!
Keep in mind that the real pins are usually hardened so you'll have to be very careful what you use those for. I've used bolts in place of pins and had very quick breakage. I've also had the same happen with the hardware store multi-hole pins.
Not meaning to rain on anyone's parade, just a warning.
Nice work on those pins! They look very close to the original! I am sure that if somebody had a lath they could probably start mass producing then for people who like that style pin.
Keep in mind that the real pins are usually hardened so you'll have to be very careful what you use those for. I've used bolts in place of pins and had very quick breakage. I've also had the same happen with the hardware store multi-hole pins.
Not meaning to rain on anyone's parade, just a warning.
I agree a person does need to be carefull using bolts... but for a differant reason...
Actually most small clevis pins are not hardened but they are made from low carbon steel which is less brittle than a grade 3 or 5 bolt, in this case softer is better because they allow some flex before reaching the breaking point, where as a bolt doesnt flex as much and will simply break. For hand making clevis pins for a GT application a grade 3 bolt should be ok but a grade 5 is far too brittle. Larger clevis pins 1" or more are often made from stainless steel.
Anyway back to the OP, Nice job, Ive done it myself many times for pins up to 1/2 inch, any larger tho and its best to buy them
I agree a person does need to be carefull using bolts... but for a differant reason...
Actually most small clevis pins are not hardened but they are made from low carbon steel which is less brittle than a grade 3 or 5 bolt, in this case softer is better because they allow some flex before reaching the breaking point, where as a bolt doesnt flex as much and will simply break. For hand making clevis pins for a GT application a grade 3 bolt should be ok but a grade 5 is far too brittle. Larger clevis pins 1" or more are often made from stainless steel.
Anyway back to the OP, Nice job, Ive done it myself many times for pins up to 1/2 inch, any larger tho and its best to buy them
I guess I didn't word my post correctly. The bolts did ultimately break but the actual failure was due to heavy wear from being too soft. They actually wore through in less than an hours worth of use. I had the same thing happen when using the pins with the multiple positioning holes. I got some "real" pins from a bolt specialty store, where I was told that they are hardened, and those pins are showing no wear several years later.
Canawler.. depending of course on your particular application and regardless of what the guy behind the counter said I would guess its more likely they sold you stainless pins, mostly because the price of a 'hardened pin' would give most people heart failure. Just for example.. a standard 1/2 pin 3" long might cost $2, a stainless pin maybe $5, and a hardened pin $20.
I just wanted to point out the differance so that people dont go out shopping for hardened pins when they only need standard low carbon or stainless, or if they choose to make them to be sure they dont use grade 5 bolts. "Generally" an application such as lifting a mower deck or rear implement will use low carbon pins but where there is more rotation involved such as a GT FEL might use stainless pins, but a full size FEL would use hardened pins which are also usually a 'machined' fit.
I need some 1/2" pins to finish the rebuilding of the 48M mowerdeck and I will be going tomorrow to get some !/2" bolts to make thm out of. I have to finish repainting a few things on the deck and arm and then I will put it back together with all new bolts. Thanks. Roger.
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