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Bringing A Cub 1650 Back To Life


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#31 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2014 - 09:07 AM

Nice to see someone putting in time on something that otherwise would go to the scrapyard.

 

I've got a belt cover for that deck that is in great shape, it's in my scrap pile now so pay shipping and you can have it... Nice to see someone. I might even have some of those spindle cups that are in better shape than yours.

 

I completely rebuilt a 44C deck last winter. http://gardentractor...-rebuild/page-1


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#32 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2014 - 09:25 AM

Thanks Twostep, I definitely need to talk to you about the belt cover and the spindle pulleys. I have pretty much
decided to try and rebuild the deck if I can do it for around $100. The other decks I've found are all on ebay and they want a lot of money for them plus the're too far away from me for local pickup. I'll send you a PM and
hopefully we can come up with a plan.

#33 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 08:24 AM

The problem with these Surplus Center pulleys is the keyway is only 3/16" wide while the cub pulley keway is 1/4" wide. Would it be possible to use these pulleys as replacements for the original and use a shim to adjust for the difference in keyway thickness?


I know McMaster-Carr has key stock that's 2 different sizes to accommodate exactly that issue, not sure who else may carry them...
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#34 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 01:04 PM

I sure with we lived closer together. I have 3 decks out here that you could have your pick of. This 

summer they are going to the salvage yard if they don't find a new home. :(


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#35 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 09:48 PM

I sure with we lived closer together. I have 3 decks out here that you could have your pick of. This 
summer they are going to the salvage yard if they don't find a new home. :(


Chris, do you think you might have some deck parts that I could use? I know shipping cost would probably be
prohibitive for the complete deck but I could manage shipping cost for parts. I'd consider anything you might have.

#36 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2014 - 07:51 PM

Dthomp, here's the keystock I was referring to, in case you end up going with aftermarket pulleys...

 

http://www.mcmaster....ne-keys/=q7lgpq

 

Edited because I can't get the link to work the way I want.  Either way, it gets you close to the page you need, what you wanna look at is the "step key" selection...


Edited by Walkinman1, January 11, 2014 - 07:54 PM.

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#37 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2014 - 09:22 PM

Did a little pressure washing today and was able to remove enough crud to at least inspect the front engine isomounts. The bottom mounts are totally gone and the top mounts look OK. I'm sure the rear mounts are in similar condition. I've read all the pros and cons of the different mount options and will probably go with the Moog k5252 mounts simply because of cost. Some other threads I've read recommended placing the original Cub top mounts on the bottom and putting the new Moog mounts on top. Any thoughts?????

#38 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2014 - 07:59 PM

Pulled the engine today to check the iso-mounts and they were much worse than I thought. The previous owner apparently tried to make some bottom mounts out of what looked like an old flexible driveshaft joint as you can see from the pictures. I think his so called repair only made things worse.

DSCF0015.JPG DSCF0016.JPG

Also there was a significant amount of wear on the tractor frame where the iso-mount bar came in contact. The worn area may be as deep as 1/16" in places. See pictures

DSCF0013.JPG DSCF0014.JPG

Almost all of the metal bushings inside the rubber mounts were also damaged and probably can't be re-used. Don't know of anything that could be used as a substitute.

The oil pan on the engine is cast iron and seems to be in good shape except for one mounting bolt that broke off below the surface of the pan. Tried to cut a groove in it and back it out with a screwdriver but didn't have a small enough diameter cutting wheel. May have to take the pan off to get it out.
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#39 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2014 - 11:07 PM

Another update. Ordered some new parts that should be here tomorrow or Saturday. I'm going to replace both flexible drive shaft couplers and I decided to get the OEM Cub engine isomounts after seeing how bad the old ones were. No parts of the old isomounts could be salvaged and re-used. I checked the PTO clutch and it seems to be working fine. The PTO switch however, was not working. The PO bypassed all of the safety switches on the tractor so I need to spend some time studying the wiring schematic to see if there are any potential wiring problem areas.

Since the PTO switch wasn't working, I decided to take it apart and see if I could come up with a temporary fix. I figured nothing to lose. I put a couple of new springs in it from my scrap spring box and cleaned the corrosion off all the contact surfaces. For the time being the switch seems to be working fine. I made a muffler crutch to help support the other end of the muffler when the engine is re-installed.

The hydrostatic pump release lever had rusted so bad that it broke. I had to remove the inspection cover and manually push the release valves with my finger to move the tractor. Using the old release lever as a guide, I bent a piece of sheet metal as close to the original as I could get to replace it and my fabrication also seems to be working fine.

Some of these fixes may only be temporary but who knows, time will tell. Maybe they'll last long enough that I can save up enough to buy more parts.

Edited by dthomp17, January 16, 2014 - 11:08 PM.

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#40 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2014 - 07:35 AM

Glad you are getting some things working for now, but some times you have to bite the bullet and go OEM. Not sure what I would do with the worn areas at the mounts.


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#41 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2014 - 10:19 AM

Glad you are getting some things working for now, but some times you have to bite the bullet and go OEM. Not sure what I would do with the worn areas at the mounts.


You are so right. I've gone the cheap route before and it actually ended up costing me more in the long run when the cheap didn't hold up.

I probably won't do anything on the worn areas right now. Don't believe the frame has been weakened enough to have a significant impact. Thought about running a weld bead in the grove but it's about an inch wide and I'm not a good enough welder to put down a good consistent weld bead that wide.

#42 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2014 - 12:16 PM

You are so right. I've gone the cheap route before and it actually ended up costing me more in the long run when the cheap didn't hold up.

I probably won't do anything on the worn areas right now. Don't believe the frame has been weakened enough to have a significant impact. Thought about running a weld bead in the grove but it's about an inch wide and I'm not a good enough welder to put down a good consistent weld bead that wide.

Even a couple narrow beads ground down to be even with the sourrounding area can help. Just something I would have to see in person to decide what to do.


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#43 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2014 - 12:45 PM

I pulled the cylinder head today to see what the cylinder bore looked like and to determine if I could tell whether or not the head gasket had blown. The cylinder walls looked very good with no grooves or any scoring but there was a fair amount of oil around some of the head bolts. The head gasket looked fine with no indication that it had been leaking but I really don't think I know what to look for. I also did some measuring with some not real precise measuring tools I have and it looks like the cylinder bore is either at or slightly beyond the maximum wear limit (specs are 3.753 in max and I was getting 3.757 in). The engine does smoke on startup but quits after a few seconds and runs with no noticeable smoke. Can't tell much about power because I haven't put it under much of a load yet. Would I damage the engine if I run it like it is now for awhile before a re-build? Any problems with putting the old head gasket back on temporarily and running the engine?

#44 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2014 - 11:46 PM

 

 

Chris, do you think you might have some deck parts that I could use? 

Sorry for the slow reply. 

I'm sure I do. The decks are probably buried in the snow now but if you start putting together a list I will see what I can do.

You can run the engine as long as you don't hear any unusual noises. I would take a straight edge and check the head and make sure it isn't warped. The best way to do this is to lay a sheet of fine sand paper on a sheet of glass and then slide the head lightly back and forth over the sand paper going inn different directions. Examine the head and see if there were any place not to touching the sand paper.

 If there are any black or carbined places on the head gasket it has been leaking. If there was oil around the head bolts there is a good chance the gasket was leaking. 


Edited by Cvans, January 17, 2014 - 11:54 PM.

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#45 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2014 - 09:32 AM

Thanks for the advice Chris and the response on the mower deck.  I'll try to put together a list of deck parts I will need.  There was no black or carbonize places on the head gasket but I was thinking that the oil around some of the bolts might be an indication of a leak.  I had already decided to get a new head gasket and I will check for head warppage with the sandpaper as you suggested.






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