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Bringing A Cub 1650 Back To Life


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#16 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 01:00 PM

I did make a temporary (possibly permanent) exhaust elbow out of a 1 1/4" diameter steel
nipple and a short piece of 1" diameter black pipe. Couldn't see paying $53 for a new elbow. The angle wasn't exactly right but the muffler connected with no problems and the sheet
metal also fit. I'd appreciate no comments on my welding ability. It will be hid anyway and nobody will see it.

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#17 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 01:05 PM

Looks like it will work for you that's the important thing. You might could do a little grinding to level off a little but don't make it leak. :thumbs:



#18 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 01:58 PM

Yep , that's the engine cradle upgrade were talking about , and I don't see anything wrong with your weld , I've see a lot worse ....mine....LOL


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#19 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 04:32 PM

If some or all of the seals in the hydro need to be replaced, is this something a do-it-yourselfer like me could
probably do? I've replaced the seals in both my sears transmissions with no problems.

#20 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 05:26 PM

Another question about the 1650. The mower deck that came with the tractor is in pretty sad
shape and I'm not sure whether it's worth spending the money on it to get back into service. I believe the deck is a 44A but I can't read the model number.

The deck housing has a fairly large amount of deeply pitted and flaking rust and some rusted
through holes in it. There are also stress cracks in the mower housing where one of the mower spindles attaches as well as near both of the rear lift brackets.

DSCF0008.JPG DSCF0011.JPG
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The belt cover has several completely rusted through holes in the back.
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The spindle bearings seem to be fine but the pulleys all need to be replaced.DSCF0005.JPG DSCF0006.JPG

The original cub cadet pulleys will cost between approximately $80 and $100 for the three
blade pulleys. I believe the idler pulley is still useable. Surplus Center has pulleys, very
close to the same diameter as the original cub pulleys, at about 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of cub
pulleys. The problem with these Surplus Center pulleys is the keyway is only 3/16" wide while the cub pulley keway is 1/4" wide. Would it be possible to use these pulleys as replacements for the original and use a shim to adjust for the difference in keyway thickness?

#21 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 07:37 PM

If some or all of the seals in the hydro need to be replaced, is this something a do-it-yourselfer like me could
probably do? I've replaced the seals in both my sears transmissions with no problems.

I think you are referring to the axle seals correct? They are a very easy fix, also check the axle tube gaskets..

When you do the HyTran and filter change the axle tubes hold some of the old fluid, and the only way to get all the old fluid out is to remove the axle tubes. (I mean you can be as picky as you want.)

I've never had to replace anything in the hydro pump itself. Am I on the right track here with what your asking, or way off in left field?


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#22 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 07:42 PM

Another question about the 1650. The mower deck that came with the tractor is in pretty sad
shape and I'm not sure whether it's worth spending the money on it to get back into service. I believe the deck is a 44A but I can't read the model number.

The deck housing has a fairly large amount of deeply pitted and flaking rust and some rusted
through holes in it. There are also stress cracks in the mower housing where one of the mower spindles attaches as well as near both of the rear lift brackets.

attachicon.gifDSCF0008.JPG attachicon.gifDSCF0011.JPG
attachicon.gifDSCF0007.JPG

The belt cover has several completely rusted through holes in the back.
attachicon.gifDSCF0009.JPG


The spindle bearings seem to be fine but the pulleys all need to be replaced.attachicon.gifDSCF0005.JPGattachicon.gifDSCF0006.JPG

The original cub cadet pulleys will cost between approximately $80 and $100 for the three
blade pulleys. I believe the idler pulley is still useable. Surplus Center has pulleys, very
close to the same diameter as the original cub pulleys, at about 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of cub
pulleys. The problem with these Surplus Center pulleys is the keyway is only 3/16" wide while the cub pulley keway is 1/4" wide. Would it be possible to use these pulleys as replacements for the original and use a shim to adjust for the difference in keyway thickness?

Yeah, that deck is pretty roached, but I've seen them fixed. How much time do you have on your hands, and do you really want it fixed? Those decks are fairly common, I'm sure one of the sponsors would have one, or pm me and I know where there is likely one. 


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#23 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 08:01 PM

I think you are referring to the axle seals correct? They are a very easy fix, also check the axle tube gaskets..
When you do the HyTran and filter change the axle tubes hold some of the old fluid, and the only way to get all the old fluid out is to remove the axle tubes. (I mean you can be as picky as you want.)
I've never had to replace anything in the hydro pump itself. Am I on the right track here with what your asking, or way off in left field?




More than likely you're correct. Just looking at the hydro unit, there's an appearance that something is leaking,
or has leaked in the past, based on the oily appearance of the adhering crud. This oily crud is all over the
transmission including the transmission filter. Could this come about from a leaking wheel seal? From a parts
diagram that I looked at, it looked like there are two seals, one on each side of the transmission. These are
probably the axle seals that you are talking about. If that's all I need to worry about I think I can handle it.
Do the axle tubes have to be removed to replace the seals? If so, how difficult is it to pull the axle tubes?

#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 08:14 PM

719k5252.jpg

Those look like GM torsion bar links!



#25 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 08:47 PM

Those look like GM torsion bar links!


They are torsion bar links I think, but you use the rubber portions as engine mounts for the Kohler engine. Someone with more experience than me needs to answer your question on this.

#26 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 08:52 PM

 

 

The engine runs with a lot of white smoke the first few seconds of running and no noticeable smoke after warm up and when running at a constant speed. .

Didn't remember seeing this white smoke when the seller started the engine for me...
Our High today was 26 degrees F and we're expecting a low of around 5 degrees F tonight. This low temp is extremely rare for Atlanta. Georgia.

 

 I don't think there is anything wrong with your engine. White smoke is common for the first few seconds on a cold day. It is just the moisture in the air and the motor warming up. Here today with temperatures around 0*, all my vehicles blew white smoke!


Edited by Bmerf, January 07, 2014 - 08:52 PM.

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#27 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 11:35 PM

More than likely you're correct. Just looking at the hydro unit, there's an appearance that something is leaking,
or has leaked in the past, based on the oily appearance of the adhering crud. This oily crud is all over the
transmission including the transmission filter. Could this come about from a leaking wheel seal? From a parts
diagram that I looked at, it looked like there are two seals, one on each side of the transmission. These are
probably the axle seals that you are talking about. If that's all I need to worry about I think I can handle it.
Do the axle tubes have to be removed to replace the seals? If so, how difficult is it to pull the axle tubes?

If the oily dirt is in the filter area I would just do a good pressure wash before you change out the fluid and filter. Most times it's just crud that has acuminated throughout the years, or leakage around the filter. If the crud is up towards the top it could be leaking from the check valves too. Those are the two valves on top of the pump. There are O rings that sometimes leak, really hard to say without seeing it in person, even then sometimes it's hard to determine where the oil is coming from. 

Just don't freak out, everything can be fixed.

As for the axle seals. Sure they can be changed on the tractor easy enough. But IF your going to take them off to get all of the fluid out it would be easier then. They (tubes) just bolt on, and there is a gasket between the tubes and transmission case. Looking at parts tree your top cover gasket maybe a source of your leakage also. 

Just joined the group on here awhile ago, do they have a way that you can download a service manual for the QL? THAT WOULD MAKE  LIFE EASIER!

I'm no expert on these tractors, but I get by, and help from my gang over at the mother ship. Help if I can.


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#28 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2014 - 06:26 AM

Here's the Service Manual.


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#29 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2014 - 08:21 AM

Thanks Kenny, I've already downloaded the service manual. Just haven't spend enough time reading it.

#30 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2014 - 08:30 AM

Those look like GM torsion bar links!

 

 

They are torsion bar links I think, but you use the rubber portions as engine mounts for the Kohler engine. Someone with more experience than me needs to answer your question on this.

 

They are, and that's exactly what you do with them.


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