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Bringing A Cub 1650 Back To Life


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#1 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 10:16 PM

Well, I bought the Cub 1650 that I mentioned in a previous "Craigslist" thread
here on GTT and thought I'd start a new thread on "bringing it back to life". I currently
have two Sears tractors and don't know a lot about Cubs so I know I'll need lots of advice
and direction from you guys in the process. Here are some pictures I took with my phone
before I brought it home
IMG_20131223_132350.jpg IMG_20131223_132718.jpg IMG_20131223_132403.jpg

The engine runs with a lot of white smoke the first few seconds of running and no noticeable smoke after warm up and when running at a constant speed. A brief puff of black smoke is
noticed when accelerating. Didn't remember seeing this white smoke when the seller started
the engine for me. The hydrostatic transmission seems to work fine and I drove it around the yard briefly to check it out.

The front axle was broken (now replaced). The axle had a deep worn "V" groove in it
apparently from rubbing the mower mule drive pulley. DSCF0010.JPG
The exhaust elbow is broken. DSCF0001.JPG
The aluminum bracket that helps support the muffler is cracked in two places and has a
hairline crack in a third place.DSCF0002.JPG
Some of the sheet metal around the engine has stress cracks. I'm thinking the iso
mounts are bad and that resulted in the broken exhaust elbow and stress cracks. The engine
did seem to move a lot at low RPM.

Both the engine and transmission have a lot of adhering dirt and crud that needs to be
pressure washed off when we get some decent warmer weather. Our High today was 26 degrees F and we're expecting a low of around 5 degrees F tonight. This low temp is extremely rare for Atlanta.
Georgia.
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#2 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 10:41 PM

White smoke appears when its cold, not a good thing



#3 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 10:52 PM

I've got a 1450 and did a engine cradle upgrade and replaced the engine cradle isomounts .

There prone to wear out and cause excessive engine rock and vibration , especially at mid throttle .

 

Here's an article that a fellow posted on a cub 1650 that he restored on another cub site I belong to .

Just some food for thought...

 

 

http://www.cubcadetc...=cradle upgrade


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#4 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 11:03 PM

White smoke appears when its cold, not a good thing

What does it mean? Do I need an engine rebuild?

#5 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 11:08 PM

I've got a 1450 and did a engine cradle upgrade and replaced the engine cradle isomounts .
There prone to wear out and cause excessive engine rock and vibration , especially at mid throttle .
 
Here's an article that a fellow posted on a cub 1650 that he restored on another cub site I belong to .
Just some food for thought...
 
 Thanks for the link to the article. I've tried to read as much as I can find about the Cub 1650 and the iso mounts seems to be a fairly common problem. Where did you get your iso mounts? I found some on ebay for about $25 but
not sure if I should get them.



#6 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 11:22 PM

What does it mean? Do I need an engine rebuild?

Bad rings or a blown head gasket



#7 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 11:28 PM

Some NAPA part numbers for a few of the various QL replacement parts including isomounts .

 

http://www.cubcadetc...lit=moog#p14895

 

On the isomount you want the older replacement softer black rubber ones , I've heard that the newer blue neoprene ones are to hard . 


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#8 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 11:38 PM

One other thing you need to check is the bolts that go thru the engine cradle rails into the oil pan .

The QL's used an aluminum oil pan and there prone to strip out or lose bolts. My 1450 when I first got it had 2 of the 4 bolts missing and the other two were about to fall out . so I'd check the 4 bolts first .

I ended up changing my aluminum oil pan to an older cast iron one because the holes were wallowed ( is that a word ) out , and the cast iron ones are stronger . 


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#9 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 12:12 AM

 "Jlaws" Wallowed out works for me. Knew exactly what you meant.

 

"dthomp17"

The black smoke when you accelerate is un-burnt gas. Not unusual for this type of engine. If you can't get it to clear up by adjusting your carb. your float my be a little high. This is nothing to worry about. The white smoke is interesting. Usually indicates moisture in the engine. This being an air-cooled engine I think we can cross that off the list. I've run air-cooled engines with bad head gaskets and don't recall a lot of white smoke unless it was an over head valve engine and oil was being pumped into the cylinder and then the smoke should be light blue in color. You can try re-torquing the head and see of that helps.

Good luck.


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#10 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 01:44 AM

My 1650 needed the ISO mounts replaced. Seems like an automatic need with the QL's. I've been around a few people that tried the cheap replacements, and your better off going to cub cadet and forking out the $'s for theirs. Seeing you'll likely be pulling the engine the cradle mod would be advisable.

When I got mine I also had the broken air duct, cracks o-plenty. So I made myself a muffle crutch, this will stiffen that area up considerably. You can build your own or purchase one here, http://www.kirkengines.com/ scroll down to the bottom part of the page. 

The white smoke on start up is a new one on me, not sure. Remove you engine tins and look for obvious leaks around the head gasket. I would do a carb adjustment before anything and make sure all checks out there.

Good luck. And seeing your in the repair mode, check your cooling fan by removing the tunnel cover, seems over time they find ways to break. And check numbers 2,3,4,5 for ware.http://www.partstree...0&dn=0028100012 and the last thing I can think of is a fresh hydraulic filter (make for certain it's a hydraulic filter) and a fluid change with HYTRAN. Some will tell you ones as good as the next, but from what I've learned, Hy Tran in a cub is your best bet, at least it is in mine :reading_the_manual:     


Edited by zippy1, January 07, 2014 - 01:48 AM.

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#11 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 11:26 AM

Some NAPA part numbers for a few of the various QL replacement parts including isomounts .

 

http://www.cubcadetc...lit=moog#p14895

 

On the isomount you want the older replacement softer black rubber ones , I've heard that the newer blue neoprene ones are to hard . 

 

 

 

Thanks Jlaws for all the NAPA part numbers and CC part numbers. Unfortunately I don't have an unlimited budget for tractor parts so I'll have to priortize what I plan to buy.  Right now I'm thinking the iso mounts are at or very near the top of my priority list.



#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 11:30 AM

What do those iso mounts look like?



#13 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 11:47 AM

 

My 1650 needed the ISO mounts replaced. Seems like an automatic need with the QL's. I've been around a few people that tried the cheap replacements, and your better off going to cub cadet and forking out the $'s for theirs. Seeing you'll likely be pulling the engine the cradle mod would be advisable.

When I got mine I also had the broken air duct, cracks o-plenty. So I made myself a muffle crutch, this will stiffen that area up considerably. You can build your own or purchase one here, http://www.kirkengines.com/ scroll down to the bottom part of the page. 

The white smoke on start up is a new one on me, not sure. Remove you engine tins and look for obvious leaks around the head gasket. I would do a carb adjustment before anything and make sure all checks out there.

Good luck. And seeing your in the repair mode, check your cooling fan by removing the tunnel cover, seems over time they find ways to break. And check numbers 2,3,4,5 for ware.http://www.partstree...0&dn=0028100012 and the last thing I can think of is a fresh hydraulic filter (make for certain it's a hydraulic filter) and a fluid change with HYTRAN. Some will tell you ones as good as the next, but from what I've learned, Hy Tran in a cub is your best bet, at least it is in mine :reading_the_manual:     

 

Thanks for the info.  I've looked at the cooling fan and it looks fine.  I do need to look more closely at parts 2,3,4 and 5.  I believe that part 3 (the flexable connection) may need some attention.  Is this flexable connection part the same for both ends ot the drive shaft?  The muffler crutch is a great idea and looks like an easy to make fix.  I was also thinking I probably need to change out the hydro fluid and filter as you suggested.  From the looks of the crud residue on the outside of the transmission there may be one or more leaks present.

 


Edited by dthomp17, January 07, 2014 - 11:48 AM.


#14 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 12:39 PM

What do those iso mounts look like?

719k5252.jpg


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#15 dthomp17 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 12:46 PM

At least a couple of you have mentioned doing an engine cradle upgrade when I replace the iso mounts and I'm not
sure what you're talking about. I did see an article from another site that talked about welding a steel cross
brace between the two metal engine cradles as an upgrade. Is that what you're talking about?

http://www.google.co...TGfRJWzd9HUg_DA

Edited by dthomp17, January 07, 2014 - 12:47 PM.

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