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Electric Actuator Vs Hydraulic Cylinder

bolens 1050

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43 replies to this topic

#31 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2014 - 10:16 AM

Sorry guys for Hijacking the tread.

 

Brian, I looked at your link (pictures anyway) that setup looks pretty darn close to the one I picked up for my Allis B-110, main differance is that the b-110 one is tucked up under the side cowl on the other side.  I would really like to find one of those big pully's to put on the front of my K341 Kohler to belt drive something like this.

Kelly, if the pump raises and lowers the rock shaft to lift the rear, it will also lift a front attachment, but you cant use front and rear attachments at the same time unless you had another lift handle, Go to you tube and type in Allis B-110 plowing or tilling, or snowblowing and see how the attachments work, it will help a bunch


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#32 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2014 - 10:27 AM

Will do Mike :thumbs:



#33 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2014 - 10:18 AM

I thought about an electric setup... My ??? is  lets say you bottomed out on an imp. you were useing,,wouldn't something have to give. bent rod,,stripped gears broken brackets....where as the hydro would give a little..   Just my thinking.



#34 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2014 - 01:23 PM

I have a 7117 with an electric lift for the front snow blower and it works just fine. You can raise and lower the implement without the engine running and it has been totally trouble free. It is slower than hydraulics but with the electric you can put down pressure on the blower and I'm not sure this is the case with hydraulics. Either way it is better than lifting that heavy blower by hand.


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#35 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2014 - 04:54 PM

When I was looking at these on line, can't remember which place, but they also had a limiting switch you could install so they did damage the cylinder. The kit had 2 limiting switches as well as the momentary switch.



#36 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2014 - 06:12 PM

I have a 7117 with an electric lift for the front snow blower and it works just fine. You can raise and lower the implement without the engine running and it has been totally trouble free. It is slower than hydraulics but with the electric you can put down pressure on the blower and I'm not sure this is the case with hydraulics. Either way it is better than lifting that heavy blower by hand.

I have factory electric lifts on 5 allis tractors, I like them. like you said you dont need the motor on to lift or lower, that has been nice on more than one occaision. I didn't realize the 7100/900 series had the optional electric lift option all I've seen were manual or hydraulic



#37 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 09, 2014 - 06:14 PM

When I was looking at these on line, can't remember which place, but they also had a limiting switch you could install so they did damage the cylinder. The kit had 2 limiting switches as well as the momentary switch.

Factory electric may have slf contained limiting switches, but I doubt it, I think those maybe exclusive to after market actuators



#38 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 09:35 AM

I think you are right about that. :thumbs:



#39 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 12:59 PM

Mine does not have limit switches. It just starts clicking( ratchet sound) like there is some kind of clutch in the lift.

For what these lift assemblies sell for I could sell mine and have all my money back for the whole outfit.  :wallbanging:


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#40 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 01:04 PM

Mine does not have limit switches. It just starts clicking( ratchet sound) like there is some kind of clutch in the lift.

For what these lift assemblies sell for I could sell mine and have all my money back for the whole outfit.  :wallbanging:

Sorry Chris, I'm not sure what you meant about the cost, Can you clarify it a little better. Thanks



#41 jerry56 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 02:01 PM

Been looking into it to....for a snow blade...just need enough power to angle it...I was going to use the factory "stops" for the angle to hold it so the actuator didn't have to....and to raise and lower it same thing it would only need to lift the weight of the blade so I was thinking the $130 ones would work....the draw back is the more pressure they can take the slower they move....some will hold 1500 lbs....but they cost $400 each....and only move .3 inches a second...the lightest duty one only pushes 25 lbs but moves at 2 inches a second....just food for thought...here is the site I was looking at.

http://www.servocity..._actuators.html



#42 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 06:40 PM

 

Sorry Chris, I'm not sure what you meant about the cost, Can you clarify it a little better. Thanks

 

It looks like these electric lift setups are going for around $250.00 or more on flea bay. That's all I have in the tractor. 

 

The electric winch I used to lift the blower on one tractor would blower the fuse right away if I lifted high enough to stall the winch.

Considered limit switches but settled on a 30amp in line circuit breaker form NAPA. Has worked just fine and resets almost instantly.


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#43 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2014 - 06:51 PM

It looks like these electric lift setups are going for around $250.00 or more on flea bay. That's all I have in the tractor. 

 

The electric winch I used to lift the blower on one tractor would blower the fuse right away if I lifted high enough to stall the winch.

Considered limit switches but settled on a 30amp in line circuit breaker form NAPA. Has worked just fine and resets almost instantly.

I guess I'm not quite clear, but that's not unusual, I just buy and install the factory OEM equpment lift, uually had for 150.00 or less and I have a factory original. If no one has noticed I'm a real stickler on factory only except for tires and sometimes headlights if they can be changed back. I don't have any Sears, Cubs, or Deeres, (all great machines) tractors they made a slew of, so I hate (wont) alter them, besides, I'm not exerting ANY effort on non OEM equipment, too many other things to do. Bottom line, your mileage may vary, to each his own and whatever floats your boat.


Edited by OkieGt, January 10, 2014 - 07:09 PM.

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#44 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2014 - 05:28 AM

I thought about an electric setup... My ??? is  lets say you bottomed out on an imp. you were useing,,wouldn't something have to give. bent rod,,stripped gears broken brackets....where as the hydro would give a little..   Just my thinking.

Hydraulics only have the give available in the rubber hoses. That isn't very much give. There is a lot more strength available than with  the electric actuators, though.

 

As you say, bottoming out with the actuator will result in a fistfull of broken parts, With hydraulics, it's more like broken parts on the tractor or the implement . . . if there is enough force involved.

 

I have a 7117 with an electric lift for the front snow blower and it works just fine. You can raise and lower the implement without the engine running and it has been totally trouble free. It is slower than hydraulics but with the electric you can put down pressure on the blower and I'm not sure this is the case with hydraulics. Either way it is better than lifting that heavy blower by hand.

A hydraulic cylinder can be mounted to supply down force to a blower or blade. It depends on how it is mounted.

 

If a float spool is used in the valve set, you have both options, downforce and float as required.







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