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Electric Actuator Vs Hydraulic Cylinder

bolens 1050

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#1 gbrown OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 05:24 PM

I've got a Bolens 1050 and big plans to use it (but not abuse it). I don't know that I'll ever be able to justify spending what the hydraulic lift kits for these tractors is bringing and so I thought about using a 12V electric actuator. Anyone on here ever done that? I presume that the hydraulic system has several advantages (capacity, versatility, etc.), but I thought if I could get a very basic alternative for less than half the cost, perhaps it would be a good idea. ??? I plan to use it to raise and lower the mower deck and (eventually) a handful of attachments via the sleeve hitch I made for it. (Back Blade, Disc, Plow, etc.). 



#2 lesmeister OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 06:22 PM

Not a bad idea IMO, you can get a 12 volt actuator from Northern Tool or surplus center and probably a lot of other places. I would get the one that has the highest weight capacity. The only problem I found with that set up was getting a short enough retracted length actuator that had the amount of stroke that I needed to raise and lower the sleeve hitch the way I wanted to mount it. I put hydraulic lift on my jd 212 but it is not factory, it is a 12 volt set up that I hooked up then ran hyd lines to a cylinder that is hooked to the factory rock shaft under the tractor.
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#3 Kfs35 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 06:30 PM

I had the exact same thought a few months ago. Mainly because I didn't want to wait to find a hydraulic lift. I certainly seems like it would work, provided you can find an actuator with enough power and travel to do what you want it to.

I ended up going with a hydraulic kit that I found with a little looking around (and luck).

The kits are out there, and pop up on eBay and craigslist occasionally. After I bought mine there were a couple of them on eBay within the next two weeks.

For me, it was a lot easier to put on the kit designed for the tractor than to fabricate mounts for an actuator.

Good luck whichever way you go,

Bob

#4 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 06:39 PM

There are plenty of OEM lifts out there.

I would recommend waiting for one to come up for sale.

Your most likely going to have more Money & time invested fabricating something.



#5 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 06:49 PM

Around here I can buy a lot of hydraulic parts for the cost of a single actuator.



#6 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 07:00 PM

I looked into the same thing and found, IF the tractor had a optional electric lift option it was cheaper and easier, IF it did NOT have a factory option for an electric lift it actually cost more (to do it right), cost more time, and seriously devalued the tractor. Basically your taking a stock tractor and playing Dr Frankenberry, it will get ugly quick and you wont be able to get rid of it without pitchfork and torch carrying townspeople. anytime you attempt to save a dollar, your most likely going to spend two dollars to do it, and waste that money as well.


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#7 lesmeister OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 07:06 PM

Brown, if you are interested in seeing what I used for the pump pm me and I will get you some pics of it. I made all of my mounting parts that I needed, the only things I bought were the lines and the cylinder. I was given the pump by a friend of mine so I was lucky as far as cost goes.
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#8 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 08:19 PM

I looked into the same thing and found, IF the tractor had a optional electric lift option it was cheaper and easier, IF it did NOT have a factory option for an electric lift it actually cost more (to do it right), cost more time, and seriously devalued the tractor. Basically your taking a stock tractor and playing Dr Frankenberry, it will get ugly quick and you wont be able to get rid of it without pitchfork and torch carrying townspeople. anytime you attempt to save a dollar, your most likely going to spend two dollars to do it, and waste that money as well.


The way I get around that, is by not adding extra holes, and using the factory mountings for everything.
It is possible to build a good solid system that doesn't hurt value. Of course it is usually a lot more costly in the end.
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#9 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 08:23 PM

The way I get around that, is by not adding extra holes, and using the factory mountings for everything.
It is possible to build a good solid system that doesn't hurt value. Of course it is usually a lot more costly in the end.

Of course you've seen others that did not adhere to that level of attention and detail


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#10 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 12:12 AM

Of course you've seen others that did not adhere to that level of attention and detail

Unfortunately, Yes I have,

 

 

 

Fortunately. so far, I can afford it



#11 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 10:23 AM

This coming spring I am going to pick up some electric actuators to use on my front blade that is used with my Allis B-110, one of the actuators will lift and lower and the other will turn the blade side to side.

 

I think with a GT that didn't come with any type of lift assist and you have the time and skill to build, the electric ones are pretty easy to use.


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#12 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 10:30 AM

This coming spring I am going to pick up some electric actuators to use on my front blade that is used with my Allis B-110, one of the actuators will lift and lower and the other will turn the blade side to side.

 

I think with a GT that didn't come with any type of lift assist and you have the time and skill to build, the electric ones are pretty easy to use.

I have electric lifts and hydraulic lifts on 13 or 15 tractors, there are many cases where a hand lift is just as good, I have used a electric lift mowing for 6 years and to tell you the truth this Allis 7016 I got with the hand lift is better/quicker. Didn't the Allis B110 have an optional electric lift? if it did, I would go with that, and as far as a Allis front blade you would be crazy not to use a stock 46 inch Allis blade with built in from the seat angle adjustment. What your thinking of doing will cost a fortune, take a ton of time, and cobble up your tractor, JM2CW



#13 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 10:37 AM

Okie, mine only came with the manual lift.  I picked up the factory hydro setup but it only lifts the rear.  After my injures to my shoulders the manual lift for the front blade really starts to rip up my shoulders.

I don't really care if it looks a little cobbled up as long as it works good for what I need it to do.


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#14 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 10:46 AM

Okie, mine only came with the manual lift.  I picked up the factory hydro setup but it only lifts the rear.  After my injures to my shoulders the manual lift for the front blade really starts to rip up my shoulders.

I don't really care if it looks a little cobbled up as long as it works good for what I need it to do.

If it lifts the rear it should lift a front attachment, they all work from the same rockshaft, just saying you should find out before you jump into something you dont need to. I'll try and find out if there is a electric lift option for your tractor. 



#15 victor3ranger OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 10:49 AM

I didn't know that the rockshaft would also lift something on the front.  How the heck would it hook up??  Right now the plow only lifts about 3" off the ground, I need it to lift more than that and be able to swivel while still seated in the seat.

 

 

I know that my Allis 916H came with a elctric option, but someone in its past removed it, so it to is manual lift with a 38" tiller, that thing is heavy.


Edited by victor3ranger, January 07, 2014 - 10:52 AM.






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