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Ford 1200


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#1 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 03:01 PM

Yeh, i know but would like to run something by you guys,

Got a Ford 1200 (rebranded jap) tractor that some kids messed with the starter a while ago, something about a short and using the wires for the headlights to power the starter solenoid, ehh, i ordered a remade started, should be in by thrursday.

When the tep started dropping it became hard cranking, starter crank slow to stop, click, click said the soleniod, replace battery but starter still crank slow and sucked battery down fast, oh boy, starter drawing high amps, hooked up my gas powered jumper/charger, charge battery to full, use glow plugs and then cranked, it stalled the jumper and drained the battery in seconds, battery ground wire got very hot.

Am i correct in my thinking by replacing the starter and running a new wire from the battery to the ignition switch to the starter ? Can not find a manual for free off internet.

Before the question is asked the alternator is charging the new battery, i checked.

If i left anything out or missed anything please steer me right.


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#2 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 03:34 PM

Yeh, i know but would like to run something by you guys,

Got a Ford 1200 (rebranded jap) tractor that some kids messed with the starter a while ago, something about a short and using the wires for the headlights to power the starter solenoid, ehh, i ordered a remade started, should be in by thrursday.

When the tep started dropping it became hard cranking, starter crank slow to stop, click, click said the soleniod, replace battery but starter still crank slow and sucked battery down fast, oh boy, starter drawing high amps, hooked up my gas powered jumper/charger, charge battery to full, use glow plugs and then cranked, it stalled the jumper and drained the battery in seconds, battery ground wire got very hot.

Am i correct in my thinking by replacing the starter and running a new wire from the battery to the ignition switch to the starter ? Can not find a manual for free off internet.

Before the question is asked the alternator is charging the new battery, i checked.

If i left anything out or missed anything please steer me right.

Timing can also effect starting, but since it didn't do it at warmer temps, I doubt thats it. My diesel did the same thing, rebuilt starter,  and new wires solved the problem


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#3 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 04:36 PM

It sounds like a dead short. Take the battery out of the tractor and give it a good charge. Pull the starter and look for a short. Before replacing the starter check the switch, wires, and solenoid. Use a test light or ohm meter. Good Lucky, Rick


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#4 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 04:54 PM

Thanks guys.



#5 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 05:15 PM

It sounds like a dead short. Take the battery out of the tractor and give it a good charge. Pull the starter and look for a short. Before replacing the starter check the switch, wires, and solenoid. Use a test light or ohm meter. Good Lucky, Rick

Dead short would likely melt the wire very very quickly


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#6 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 05:25 PM

It could be a dead short in the starter. It takes a big draw to drain a battery fast. Good Luck, Rick


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#7 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 06:04 PM

It could be a dead short in the starter. It takes a big draw to drain a battery fast. Good Luck, Rick

Thanks again, everything pointed to the starter, i will test everything and run new wires.

Will also test the switch itself for grounding/shorting while it is out and clean the battery ground (negative ground system).

OkieGt, that was my fear when the ground started to heat up, stopped right there. When it stalled my gas powered 75 amp charger i knew something was really wrong, withing seconds the battery was down to almost nothing.


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#8 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 06:12 PM

Thanks again, everything pointed to the starter, i will test everything and run new wires.

Will also test the switch itself for grounding/shorting while it is out and clean the battery ground (negative ground system).

OkieGt, that was my fear when the ground started to heat up, stopped right there. When it stalled my gas powered 75 amp charger i knew something was really wrong, withing seconds the battery was down to almost nothing.

uh no, that might be a direct short like boyscout said, A bad starter will heat up the wires real quick, but if it heats up when not cranking or shuts down your charger it definitely could be a dead short


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#9 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2014 - 06:21 PM

It could be a dead short in the starter. It takes a big draw to drain a battery fast. Good Luck, Rick

I think you may be right after rereading his post, man I've had some bad little fires over this sort of thing.


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#10 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 07:21 AM

I think you may be right after rereading his post, man I've had some bad little fires over this sort of thing.

Yes and seen battery cables melt their insulation off. That is why you have to have a fire extinguisher handy. The other lesson on this is that the battery cables have to be of heavy enough gauge. It would be good if you took pics of this as you go to show others. I suspect that a brush may be the culprit when you open it up. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, January 06, 2014 - 08:57 AM.

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#11 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 04:16 AM

That rig needs really good cables.... Double 00 at least. Make sure all connections are perfect too. Then try to start, if cables get hot starter is faulty. Common on your generation Shibaura / Ford.

#12 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 06:35 AM

Maybe you could get a set of jumper cables and hook the negitive right to the starter case and the other to the battery negitive post as an extra ground for testing .






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