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Briggs 16Hp 326400 Carb Issue


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#1 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2014 - 10:10 PM

I'm having a problem with the carb on my 1978 Simplicity 7016H, it doesn't have many hours on it, but I think the previous owner left ethanol based fuel in it for several years. I suspect the float has a hole in it or the main needle seat is damaged. No matter what I do it runs rich I cant seem to lean it out, so rich that it blows black smoke and fouls the plug in a few minutes and gas start dripping out of the carb. It didn't seem to run that bad before I replace the points/coil/condensor, but I don't know, I only ran it a few minutes. Could I have hooked the throttle cable up wrong? 

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#2 hamman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2014 - 10:14 PM

Nice tractor. Not sure about the problem but if you take the carb apart make sure you use the right screwdriver for the high speed jet so you don't strip the threads on it. Good Luck. Roger.


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#3 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2014 - 10:19 PM

Briggs updraft carbs can have multiple problems causing too much fuel.  A rebuild is probably in order.  Yep, take out the main jet before attempting any dissassembly.   On most models, the main jet will need to come out to allow the top cover to come off. A lot of guys pry it off and break the jet.


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#4 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2014 - 10:19 PM

Nice tractor. Not sure about the problem but if you take the carb apart make sure you use the right screwdriver for the high speed jet so you don't strip the threads on it. Good Luck. Roger.

And be careful about the little tube on the angle when splitting the carb. I just got this from a guy in Missouri, came with a complete 46" adjustable snow plow that has never been used, both for 500.00, he laughed and said he only paid 400.00 for it, I didn't tell him how much I would have paid, lol


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#5 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 05:21 AM

It could be the float or needle but sounds more like an issue with the immulsion tube. Many folks mistake the carb flood problem as a float or needle problem and never can get the carb to function right because its actually fuel escaping past the emulsion tube.

Here is a nice diagram (not mine) of the issue Im describing:

Edited by Talntedmrgreen, January 02, 2014 - 05:23 AM.

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#6 drbish ONLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 07:03 AM

This has some good info on carb's

  http://gardentractor...update-seminar/


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#7 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 07:32 AM

TalntedMrGreen is sitting where I was going.  That nozzle comes out.  The official procedure to to strip the threads off another copy, and use it to lap that seat with valve lapping compound.  Then, take this nylon gasket I sell, can't remember the P/N offhand, and use it to seal the nozzle. 

 

Those carburetors are great when they are behaving.  Usually that lapping trick fixes those I work with.

 

However, if you have a press insert needle and seat set, I would replace the needle.  They are inclined to hang up. 

 

Finally, make sure the float is adjusted correctly.  If the bowl level is off, the gas will seep out of the nozzle itself. 

 

Ben W.


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#8 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 08:14 AM

It could be the float or needle but sounds more like an issue with the immulsion tube. Many folks mistake the carb flood problem as a float or needle problem and never can get the carb to function right because its actually fuel escaping past the emulsion tube.

Here is a nice diagram (not mine) of the issue Im describing:

no diagram?



#9 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 09:09 AM

no diagram?

 

 

Darn phone...let's try this on the laptop:

 

emulsiontube.png


Edited by Talntedmrgreen, January 02, 2014 - 09:12 AM.

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#10 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 09:53 AM

TalntedMrGreen is sitting where I was going.  That nozzle comes out.  The official procedure to to strip the threads off another copy, and use it to lap that seat with valve lapping compound.  Then, take this nylon gasket I sell, can't remember the P/N offhand, and use it to seal the nozzle. 

 

Those carburetors are great when they are behaving.  Usually that lapping trick fixes those I work with.

 

However, if you have a press insert needle and seat set, I would replace the needle.  They are inclined to hang up. 

 

Finally, make sure the float is adjusted correctly.  If the bowl level is off, the gas will seep out of the nozzle itself. 

 

Ben W.

I work on a bunch of kohler engines with no problem, but I lost you after the words "that nozzle comes out", I will have to read upon tose carbs to understand what your saying then reread your post. I always replace all wear parts when doing a carb rebuild, seems silly and counterproductive not too. Am I wrong, or are their similarities to this carb and the old IH carbs on the Farmall Cubs?



#11 cookiemonster OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 10:57 AM

If your problem does turn out to be gas leaking past the tube, I can advise a few steps to fix that.  However, that problem usually just means it running a bit rich at idle (and lean at speed) and doesn't cause the extent of the problems that he's seeing... That being enough to foul the plug very quickly and leaking while running.  From what he sounded like, it was leaking while running which is something more serious like a float or something with the needle.


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#12 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 11:02 AM

I have found, on probably 50% of my Briggs carb rebuilds, that the new needle simply does not seat well.  A non-leaker carb can become a leaker AFTER a rebuild.  I keep all my old wear parts, and when rebuilding one, keep the parts that came from it, close at hand, and often put the old needle back in to stop the leak.  Something about the neoprene tips on those makes them finicky.  I don't think the new ones have 'formed' to seat well in the carb.


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#13 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 08:57 PM

Neoprene (viton) needles never work as well as steel.  I horde steel needles when I see them for sale just for that reason.  Case at hand, never ever push up against a viton needle into the seat, it will get a bit of a ridge in it and then never seal again.  I've been there, done that.

 

Okie, I lost you because I must have lost some nouns and instead began spitting out too many daggone pronouns.  :wallbanging:  You use an old nozzle (less threads) to lap the seat.  It works very well for me, its step number one in a large two piece Flo-Jet rebuild before I even clean the carburetor. 

 

These Briggs carbs are somewhat similar to Cub carburetors, but not exactly. 

 

Ben W.


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#14 OkieGt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 09:41 PM

Neoprene (viton) needles never work as well as steel.  I horde steel needles when I see them for sale just for that reason.  Case at hand, never ever push up against a viton needle into the seat, it will get a bit of a ridge in it and then never seal again.  I've been there, done that.

 

Okie, I lost you because I must have lost some nouns and instead began spitting out too many daggone pronouns.  :wallbanging:  You use an old nozzle (less threads) to lap the seat.  It works very well for me, its step number one in a large two piece Flo-Jet rebuild before I even clean the carburetor. 

 

These Briggs carbs are somewhat similar to Cub carburetors, but not exactly. 

 

Ben W.

The tractor ran for a few minutes prior to dying, but the guy had just put fuel into it after sitting several years, I was wondering if it took that long for the float to take on gas through a small hole? I was thinking of splitting the carb in half and checking the flat first. Thanks



#15 littlemarv OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2014 - 11:55 PM

You need to take the main jet out, then you take out the emulsion tube. Take out the jet, then look in the hole. You will see the big end of the tube with a slot for a flat screwdriver in it. TAKE ON OLD SCREWDRIVER that the tip just fits in the groove, and grind down the sides so it fits in the carb body, to get the tube out. The screwdriver has to fit tight in the slot or it will round off without fail. Some penetrating oil and lots of working back and forth are required here, because if you strip the brass or foul the threads the tube won't come out.

 

Then, you can split the carb and look at the float and needle.


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