Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Need Help With Engine Size 143-586012


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Bmerf ONLINE  

Bmerf

    Patina Farmer / Rust Collector

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 9846
  • 1,708 Thanks
  • 1,445 posts
  • Location: benton harbor, mi

Posted December 29, 2013 - 06:47 PM

I have an old engine that I was told came off a snow blower. Model 143-586012. Was told it was a 7 hp Kohler. After a Google search and searching Sears parts, I came up empty, no information. I believe it is a Tecumseh, no help at their website.

This engine is on a log splitter that has set outside for years. Motor is free and it ran when parked.

 

My questions:

1) What size horsepower is this engine? This motor looks awfully small and I need at least a 5 horse to run the pump. Don't want to spend a lot on this if too small.

2) Currently have no spark, removed the cover and flywheel, cleaned up the magnet and coil. It has the coil under the flywheel. Points look good but, attached an ohm meter across the points and it showed continuity. Turn motor over expecting that when points opened, continuity would go away, but no.. Am I correct in my thinking? Haven't  pulled the coil off because I don't know how to set the gap. 

3) Manual anyone?

 

I know that the carb will need work. And I have a Briggs 5 hp that I can swap out. But, where is the challenge in that?

 

I didn't forget the pictures.

 

IMG_1563.JPG IMG_1561.JPG IMG_1565.JPG

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Brian


Edited by Bmerf, December 29, 2013 - 06:53 PM.


#2 8tyman8 OFFLINE  

8tyman8

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 5455
  • 414 Thanks
  • 731 posts
  • Location: kingston ont canada

Posted December 29, 2013 - 06:55 PM

Its a 5-7 hp Tecumseh.. there should be a hh50,60 or 70 somewhere on the motor I'm not a Big fan of them also there is no Air cleaner so its not gonna last to long IMO you would be better off with the briggs cheers Ty



#3 superaben OFFLINE  

superaben
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 11204
  • 7,664 Thanks
  • 5,677 posts
  • Location: Shenandoah Valley, VA

Posted December 29, 2013 - 07:19 PM

Brian, try an H60-75264G.

 

Points are cheap and so is a condenser.  I have both in stock for a few bucks each.  You will have continuity across (i.e. "to ground") if the condenser and coil is hooked up to the points. 

 

Run a file through the points and clean them up a bit.  You might get spark.  Otherwise, points and condenser will give you fire. 

 

Carburetor kits are also very cheap and easy to install. 

 

Tecumseh H60s were very good engines that made many machines run like champs for years.  There are a bunch still working hard today.

 

The only weakness is oil, they will chuck a rod quick if the oil level isn't correct.

 

Ben W.


  • Bmerf said thank you

#4 Bmerf ONLINE  

Bmerf

    Patina Farmer / Rust Collector

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 9846
  • 1,708 Thanks
  • 1,445 posts
  • Location: benton harbor, mi

Posted December 29, 2013 - 07:44 PM

Thanks, I will try a file on the points. It will be a few days before I have time to play with it again. Any idea on how to set the air gap? Should I just try to mark where the coil is now and reset to marks? I am not sure the gap is correct. Should I try to set with a piece of thin cardboard? Kind of hillbilly, but it has worked on other engines for me.



#5 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

dodge trucker
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 19314
  • 1,440 Thanks
  • 1,897 posts
  • Location: kankakee

Posted December 29, 2013 - 08:29 PM

don't loosen the 2 scews on the outside of the mag base as they wont do anything for point gap but will affect TIMING.

To set the point gap look at the crank real close behind the points there will be a high spot. Rotate crank til high spot is opening points and loosen (slightly!) the screw holding the stationary point then move stationary point til the gap is 0.020, tighten that screw.

 

Definitely a Tecumseh 5 to 7 HP looks lik aluminum... H50 H60 or H70  Cast iron block would be "HH" series... looks identical but about twice the weight. An air cleaner base and housing should be an easy find, takes a #30727 air filter element


Edited by dodge trucker, December 29, 2013 - 08:30 PM.

  • Bmerf said thank you

#6 Bmerf ONLINE  

Bmerf

    Patina Farmer / Rust Collector

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 9846
  • 1,708 Thanks
  • 1,445 posts
  • Location: benton harbor, mi

Posted December 29, 2013 - 08:50 PM

Found a cross reference, and added it here:

http://gardentractor...e-part-numbers/

 

Also found Service Manual, It was already up loaded in the manual section:

http://gardentractor...-manual-692509/

 

Is there any way to test the coil? i.e. with an ohm meter like can be done on a car?

Ben, Thank-you again.

 

I will leave the mag alone, just read up on setting timing. :wallbanging:  Don't want that can-o-worms.



#7 superaben OFFLINE  

superaben
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 11204
  • 7,664 Thanks
  • 5,677 posts
  • Location: Shenandoah Valley, VA

Posted December 29, 2013 - 09:56 PM

You can test the coil.  But I never do.  For as cheap as a 30560 coil is, if a new condenser and points doesn't give a spark, the coil is toast and I replace it.  Of course, I always like to check for a worn/bare wire (other than the coil ground) and timing first. 

 

FWIW, coils go bad but not as often as points and condensers. 

 

Condenser number is 30548 and points are 30547.

 

I have an air cleaner assembly here, too, if your's is AWOL.

 

Ben W.


  • Bmerf said thank you




Top