7 replies to this topic

[Walkinman1]

Ok fellas, I'm having an "issue" with my Suburban and need some expert input.  (Issue might be a strong word but I digress)

 

After the transmission is all warmed up after say, plowing for a while, if I let it sit idling in neutral for a few minutes and go to put it back in gear I have to sit with the clutch depressed for a LONG time to let the gears coast to a stop so it won't grind going back in gear.  If I stop and go from one gear to another keeping the clutch depressed the whole time it doesn't do it.  Based on that I'm thinking belt tension might be a very small part of the issue but really doubt it's the primary cause.  It's adjusted to spec right now, I can loosen it up further but then the clutch pedal is WAY out before it engages and that barely helps.  I want to get this straightened out asap before I risk tearing up the gears...

 

So, here's my ideas that I want input on (numbered in order of how I'd like to try things) and I'd certainly welcome any additional ideas...

 

1:  Thicker oil in the trans?  I changed it when I got the tractor and I'm running 30 weight as specified by the owner's manual (which seemed very thin to me).  Can I try 50 weight or even 80/90 like most transaxles run without damage?

 

2:  Belt guides... All of the factory guides appear to be in place, I've cross checked the owner's manual and parts list several times but perhaps I could fabricate something to keep the belt in more of an oval shape?

 

3:  Some sort of clutch brake that stops the input shaft/pulley when the clutch is depressed...  Haven't given this one much thought yet as it would probably be overly complex to engineer and build but it's an idea. 

 

Let the brain drizzling begin!  

[MH81]

You are right that the belt guides must be in place and right. You also want to make sure the belt isn't to short.

Verify the brake is working properly when clutch is depressed.

80/90 is fine, I run it in all my sears. They love it.

[Walkinman1]

I'll double check all of that, for the fourth or fifth time lol.

As long as it's regular 80/90 and not synthetic it should be safe for the yellow metals right?

[MH81]

I haven't had any issues with good old Dino juice 80w90. Like what you can get at TSC. BTW, make a rain cover for the shifter out of a piece of inner tube so the water can't wick in the shifter.

[Walkinman1]

Cool, thanks MH, it's always stored inside and got the cab on for the winter but that's a good idea, just in case she sits outside at some point...

[superaben]

You want some drag resistance to help slow the gears down.  80/90 works well for that. 

 

However, even that won't work if the belt is not the right size.  You might also check the pulley.  I had a well worn machine that would never go out of gear, and the reason was that the belt would stay on the pulley even when the belt was loose, simply because the pulley had worn a ridge that retained the belt in place.  No one believe me until I replaced the belt and pulley, and the tractor worked as a champ.

 

Ben W.

[TomLGT195]

When I had my sears tractors ,I had the same issue, not as long but I had to leave the brake on to keep the belt from spinning the gears. good luck, Tom

[Walkinman1]

I know the pulley on the engine side is in good shape but I'll double check the trans side and the brake, I'll also change oil again and see where that gets me.