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Bolens 1476


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#46 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 07:44 PM

Back at the this tractor tonight, So i changed the head gasket and i have a question i torqued the head as the repair manual states do i need to re torque after an initial run time?

 

I also feel very good about this motor as it's been rebuilt and it seems to not have many hours as the cylinder walls look amazing. Tomorrow i have to bring home some FIPG and just use some around the carb as even with a new gasket i have a air leak there. I also just the tip of the muffler to shorten it up and make it look better.

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#47 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 09:33 PM

Attaching the muffler to the frame of the tractor will cause a lot of stress on the cylinder where the exhaust pipe goes in. Or at least I think so. The muffler mount needs to be a bit flexible.
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#48 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 09:39 PM

Attaching the muffler to the frame of the tractor will cause a lot of stress on the cylinder where the exhaust pipe goes in. Or at least I think so. The muffler mount needs to be a bit flexible.

 

That clamp is not very tight at all allowing the muffler to rock with the engine i am ideally looking for a permanent type of mounting that would work a lot better than this.



#49 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 04:53 PM

So I really need some help I can't get this thing to run right what so ever I adjusted the points as they were off. Installed and gapped and new spark plug. And I re-sealed the motor and even changed the head tasked and torqued as the manual instructed. But I can't get this carb to behave for me and I can't locate one either if someone know where a used carb is that would be awesome.

#50 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 04:57 PM

What exactly is going on?

Is the engine running at all?



#51 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 05:50 PM

It runs but it almost fouls the plug instantly when it's cold its a pain to get it to kick and fire someone took out the non adjustable main just and installed an adjustable one so that's an issue. Also when I can get it to run it pops a lot and backfires I have to richen the carb to get it to stop and even with new gaskets it runs with the idle screw in all the way. I checked engine timing it's spot on according the manual. I adjusted the points as spark was weak they were adjusted a little small and now I get a nice spark. The valves looked very nice and there was almost no carbon on the engine so when the last carb was on this motor it did run nice. Also when trying to start I get a lot of unburnt fuel out the muffler in the form of white smoke and when it runs it runs black and when you try to lean it out it back fires or stumbles under anything but idle

#52 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 06:06 PM

Did you check your valve clearances?

With it backfiring it still sounds like a timing/valve issue to me....

 

The old style carbs did have an adjustable jet but that has long been NLA in place of the new fixed jet plug.



#53 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 06:27 PM

I set timing with feeler gauges so maybe I need to use a light like the manual said with the valves as tight in the guides I think they are fine but do you have a link to measure the valves? The main jet it leaking and super loose so that why I was thinking carb related. Plus how could a motor idle with the idle screw all the way in.

#54 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 10:24 PM

Tomorrow I am going to check engine time and check the valve clearance I'm praying I don't need the exhaust valve ground as I don't any local machine shops for this or a spring compressor.

#55 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2014 - 05:21 AM

I set timing with feeler gauges so maybe I need to use a light like the manual said with the valves as tight in the guides I think they are fine but do you have a link to measure the valves? The main jet it leaking and super loose so that why I was thinking carb related. Plus how could a motor idle with the idle screw all the way in.

 

Could be the carb if its in as bad of shape as you say, but dosent hurt to check your valve to tappet clearances.

The wisconsin manual should tell you how to do this as well as the proper clearances.



#56 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2014 - 06:42 PM

You are right timing issue for sure the valve tappets are loose and the valves are out of adjustment I need to pull the head off and adjust the tappets and then re check the valve spec cause right now the intake in at 7 and the exhaust is over 10.
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#57 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2015 - 10:11 PM

Time to start into this tractor again i just want to get it running as it is a little heavy to push around i ordered a points and condenser tonight Hopefully this week i can dig into the wiring and get it straight before that shows up so when it does i am good to go.



#58 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2015 - 08:35 PM

I would suggest you replace the points and condenser before you do much else - what you are describing sounds like an intermittent condenser which can drive you crazy trying to diagnose it until you have experienced it.  I have encountered three in the last fourty years - if you have a timing light hook it up and watching the light flashes - you should see a regular consistent pattern - if it is irregular and intermittent it is a sign the spark is not good - spark may look good when cranking the engine over with plug out but when firing a plug under compression it may not be up to the challenge.  The engines I worked on would start and idle somewhat but ran rich intermittently and when you tried to speed them up they would spit and backfire and have no power.  Hope this helps


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#59 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2015 - 08:46 AM

I would suggest you replace the points and condenser before you do much else - what you are describing sounds like an intermittent condenser which can drive you crazy trying to diagnose it until you have experienced it.  I have encountered three in the last fourty years - if you have a timing light hook it up and watching the light flashes - you should see a regular consistent pattern - if it is irregular and intermittent it is a sign the spark is not good - spark may look good when cranking the engine over with plug out but when firing a plug under compression it may not be up to the challenge.  The engines I worked on would start and idle somewhat but ran rich intermittently and when you tried to speed them up they would spit and backfire and have no power.  Hope this helps

 

 

I did i tracked down a oem YQ-16 point and condenser kit. My issues is when i first had the motor is i figured out the wiring and the only thing i could get perfect is my Ignition switch as it's set up for electric ignition so i just put a toggle switch in the coil power wire and this set up seemed to work 100% fine. I had the motor out marked all the wires then put the motor back in and now no matter what i do or try it's like having a dead short on my points circuit this is why i needed points to begin with. I can't seem to figure out why it wants to set the points on fire or burn the point wire up as it's just a ground that makes the coil field colaps to make spark.



#60 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2015 - 08:00 PM

So i got the new points and condenser installed now it runs!!!!! woot woot.

 

But like everything on this tractor it's still has a lot of fight in her. I've got some oil leaks one at the fuel pump it's a new gasket but i am going to add some FIPG and hopefully that seals that one up.

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I also have an oil leak coming from the point box this one has me very scared as im afraid it might mean the block is junk. Any suggestions for this one?

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