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My New 782


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#1 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2013 - 06:48 PM

She lives  :dancingbanana:  :rocker2:  :dancingbanana:  :rocker2:

 

The previous owner tried and tried to get it started before I bought it but we just couldn't get it to go, he said it ran well and that he had driven it into his front yard where it was sitting at the time; it was just too darn cold, windy and snowy to have patience tinkering with it. He seemed very honest and I just trusted my gut, this time it served me right.

 

I got it fired pretty easily but decided to give it a thorough going-over before I went further and took care of a bunch of odds and ends.  Cleaned the carb, cleaned and lubricated the sticking bendix so the starter would cooperate, welded up the leaky muffler, tightened up the steering, cleaned and gapped the points, etc.

 

I do have an issue though:  When I drained the oil it seemed to have a decent amount of gas in it.  Are the fuel pumps on the KT 17's prone to internal leakage like the ones on the earlier K series singles?  Getting to the fuel pump requires removing the intake and I'm not sure if a leaky diaphragm is even evident and visible so I haven't touched it yet.  Any ideas or better ways to diagnose this issue? 



#2 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2013 - 08:51 PM

The question is did the po flood the daylights out of it and end up with a bunch of gas in the crank case. Just a thought.

 

 

 

Geno


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#3 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2013 - 09:15 PM

That crossed my mind too but I know the fuel pumps are suspect on the earlier ones and was curious about these twins...

#4 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2013 - 09:19 PM

Unluckily the  682 and 782's are prone to have bad fuel pump diaphrams that leak gas into the engine oil . You might want to check the carb  float level also .

I had a 582 that would get gas into the oil if the tank was full , seems that the carb float needle would let gas seep thru if the tank was near full . It wouldn't do it if I kept the fuel level below half a tank .

Them Kohler fuel pumps aren't cheap , they used to have rebuild kits for them , but they've discontinued them the last I checked .



#5 diesel nut OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2013 - 10:01 PM

I've had half a dozen or so at work that did that.  I just put a shut off valve in the line that you can get to by opening the hood and havent had any problems since on them.  It could be that it got flooded by trying to start it or it could be the new type gas that caused it to leak through.  The intake doesnt have to be removed to take the pump off.  Just take the plate with the i.d. sticker off and the bolts that hold the baffle over the head out and bend it down some and you can get a philips head screw driver right in there and the pump just falls out after that.      Stewart



#6 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 18, 2013 - 10:39 PM

Thanks guys, all of the tins were already off the engine but I figured there wouldn't be enough room to pull the pump out even after I removed the screws. I did check the float level earlier and reset it (correctly this time as it appears the P.O. tried his hand at it at some point). There's very little fuel in the tank at this point so I doubt it's a gravity/float issue. I ran it for a little while and the oil level appears to be "rising" so I'm leaning towards it being the fuel pump...

Edited by Walkinman1, December 18, 2013 - 10:40 PM.


#7 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 02:10 AM

Good luck with your 782.

I replaced my fuel pump and didn't seem too difficult, but that was a year ago, and I forget rather fast. (what were we talking about) oh 782! I know I really enjoy mine :thumbs:



#8 oldironmm OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 10:55 AM

I had to change out the fuel pump on mine 782 about 2 years ago as it was doing the same thing. I done not think I had to remove the intake to do that. It was pretty easy I do remember that. I had to remove some tin work on the engine though. It was a KT 17 - 2 engine. Runs like a champ. Love this little tractor it'll do everything I need it to do:-)

#9 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 11:02 AM

The inline shutoff valve is a good ideal and that's what  I ended up putting on my 582 up on top the engine compartment near the carb  .

 

There is a factory shutoff valve on the bottom of the fuel tank , but you have to remove a side panel to shut it off . Plus they tend to get stiff to close and with the hardened with age rubber grommet pressure fitted into a plastic fuel tank you run the risk of them starting to leak if you open and close it alot  .

 

Of course the shutoff valve won't help if you have a leaky fuel pump diaphragm when running , but I always shut mine off when hauling it .on a trailer .



#10 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 07:11 PM

I opted for an electric fuel pump, got her all fixed up I think. Got all the tins back on and she runs great now. uploadfromtaptalk1387498117346.jpg

Can anyone tell me what model these blowers are or where I can find the model numbers?
uploadfromtaptalk1387498166278.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1387498180256.jpg
The only real difference between the two seems to be the guard for the driveshaft is a different style...and the one with nicer paint seems to have some driveshaft issues.

#11 diesel nut OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 10:25 PM

There both Haban built units.  The dealers could order them direct from Haban or through Cub Cadet.  The tag should be low on the frame by the lift rod.  The Haban model is H-42 and I'm not sure what the Cub Cadet number was.  The one I have has the model number on a plastic tag and all I can read on it is 193 the rest is worn off.  If the drive shaft has issues its probably going to have to be replaced.  There not available anymore so what I've had to do is make them using 6N joints with the apropriate ends and tube.       Stewart


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#12 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 08:03 PM

Thanks Stewart, that gave me enough info to track down what I needed, I still can't find a tag on either one of 'em though so I'm guessing they must be long gone.  

 

Can you give me more info on what you mean by "appropriate ends and tube" ??

 

Couple more general questions:

 

1:  Is there a valve to disengage the trans if the tractor needs to be towed or pushed?  I can't find any info in the owners manual about it...

 

2:  I see that IH Hytrans fluid is what's specified to run in the hydro, is there a parts store equivalent or do I need to go grab some from the dealer?



#13 diesel nut OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 11:08 PM

I meant you need the yokes to fit a 6N cross.  2 of them need to have the right size hole to fit the shaft coming out of the right angle gear box and the one on the small sprocket and the other 2 need to fit the male and female sliding tube inbetween. 

 

There is no release on the hydro to push it.  The valves are self reliveing so it can be pushed.  If it needs to be towed or pushed the owners manual said to not go any faster than you can walk and it shouldnt cause any damage. 

 

I prefer to use HyTran for the oil as it holds 20% of its volume of water before seperating out.  But its out of warranty at this point so any good hydraulic/transmission fluid will work.  The stuff I get is 303 tractor hydraulic fluid from CarQuest.  I belive the 303 is the John Deere spec for oil that is equlivalent to Case/IH HyTran fluid.        Stewart


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#14 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 07:31 AM

Gotcha. I didn't see that in my manual and on the tractor there's a sticker that says not push more than a few feet so I was puzzled.

I guess I should've phrased my question a little better, how do you build them? More specifically, how do you weld the shaft to the yoke and keep it running true?

#15 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 08:03 AM

I thought this was neat:
uploadfromtaptalk1387717355991.jpg
As I was going through paperwork I found a receipt for the engine being replaced at the dealer in 97 to the tune of $1,500!




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