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Siezed Auger On 48" Model 831025 Sno Thro


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#1 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2013 - 07:07 PM

Don't know how it happened but I am guessing road salt. Every year I remove the shear pins, lube and make sure auger is spinning freely on the shaft. Over the summer, the left auger siezed to the shaft and it ain't showing any indication of wanting to break loose. Don't want to do too much as I don't want to shock the gear box. Anyone have any tips on how to free this thing up? I thought it would break free on its own just by the load and shock of moving snow but it is on there tight.


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#2 Wm McNett OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2013 - 08:08 PM

Hot wrench ;)
Heat it and rap on the outside of the tube, all the way around, along the length that's over the shaft, it with a hammer

Edited by Wm McNett, December 13, 2013 - 08:09 PM.


#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2013 - 08:40 PM

Penetrating oil and time. If it was loose last spring then you should be able to persuade it to loosen up. If you have to use it then that may loosen it up. The torque on the shaft when blowing snow may be enough to free it up. 



#4 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2013 - 04:09 AM

Thanks for the suggestions. I am a little gunshy about the heat because I do not want to ruin the seal on the gearbox. I might drill out a couple zero fittings and apply penetrating oil under pressure for a couple days and see what happens.

#5 Jehtro OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2013 - 08:35 AM

I dounno , little heat goes a long way when trying to break things lose.

#6 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2013 - 08:54 AM

I'd say leave the shear bolt out, keep soaking it in penetrating oil and use it. It should break free. Or is this something you need to break loose before you can use it?

Edited by Walkinman1, December 14, 2013 - 08:54 AM.


#7 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2013 - 09:17 AM

No problem using it unless I hit something which could tear up the gear box which costs over $600! I have not hit anything in 20 years so I should be ok. I was able to move the auger axially by tapping a wedge between the gear case shaft (sleeve between the auger shaft and gear) and the auger. l used some heat and penetrating oil first although I do not know how much, if any, these helped. I get plenty of grease on the outboard side but nothing on the inboard which makes me think rust is located inboard. Still can not rotate auger. Plan to keep adding penetrating oil and using it to see if it eventually breaks free. I am very surprised that I could move the auger axially but still can not rotate it.

 

I have looked at the IPL and service manual and still can not figure out how to take the gear box apart. Do I have to first remove the input shaft? Anyone ever taken one of these things apart? For example, what would I do if I had to replace an oil seal on the auger shaft? Thanks a lot for your help.

 

Edit: Upon further study, it appears that I should be able to slide (drive?) the auger shaft enough to drop out the left auger and then drive it back the other way to drop out the right auger (or vice versa) without having to disassemble the gear box. Does this look right?


Edited by artbuc, December 14, 2013 - 10:20 AM.


#8 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2013 - 08:19 AM

Boy, sometimes I think I am as dumb as a stump and other times I know I am! Upon closer examination, I see that the auger shaft will just clear the housing so that is obviously the only way to take this thing apart. Looks like you remove the drive pulleys and bearings and then the auger shaft end caps. Then you can drop the auger assembly, including impeller, out of the housing. At that point you can remove the input shaft outboard bearing cone which allows you to remove the auger shaft from the gear box. Reassembly looks a little tricky in that the worm and bronze (keyed to auger shaft) gears have to be installed at the same time. No need to take the gear box apart at this point. Once removed from the housing, I hope I can use a puller to pull the frozen auger off the shaft. Will wait until after snow season for that.

 

PS  In an earlier post I said i was able to move the frozen auger axially by tapping a wedge in between the auger and gear box. All I really did was move the gear box. Hopefully I did not damage the gear set when I did this dumb move.


Edited by artbuc, December 15, 2013 - 08:25 AM.

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#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2013 - 09:18 AM

Do you have the shear pins out. I've seen them wear over time so that they are actually jammed in the hole. I had a bad time with one on a friends machine a few years back. The pin broke but the piece that was left in the shaft would not come out due to the way it had worn. It took some persuasion to get it out. I have an Ariens walk behind. It's a Commercial model with the cast iron transmission that looks the same as the one on the GT blowers. It has grease zerks on the auger but I've never checked it to make sure the augers are free. I'll do that now that I've seen you have this problem. Thanks for bringing it here.



#10 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2013 - 09:49 AM

Yes, the shear pin is out. The auger shaft outboard flange bushing support has 3 holes where it bolts to the housing. The bolts are equally spaced so all three will not clear the auger. However, I may be able to use two of those holes with a puller. Will have to fashion a holding device and may have to drill a 4th hole to get two at 180 degrees so I am not pulling the auger at an angle. I'll let you know what I do. I am not totally opposed to dropping out the auger assembly but it is a big job for an old man, lol. I probably should just leave it alone but it bugs the heck out of me knowing that it isn't right plus I hate running the chance of destroying the gear box.



#11 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2013 - 05:19 AM

Quick Update. Have her torn down. Even with total access, I can not budge the frozen auger. I plan to take it to a shop to see if they can press it off. Do not want to put too much pressure on it because I do not want to damage the auger plus if the ID of the auger bore is badly rusted I may not be able to get it back on the shaft. Good thing I tore her down. Found many problems such as the idler bracket bushings were seized so the tension springs were doing nothing. The 10" pulley was also seized and I had to cut it off. The replacement will be pricey at $68. All of the gear box guts looked pretty good except the tapered bearing on the input shaft side which I buggered during disassembly. The worm gear/drive gear set look fine. Interestingly, the tapered bearings are Made in USA Timkens. You can not believe the weight of these things. Made me kind of sad to hold them in my hand and remember what a great manufacturing country we used to be. Bet the new Timken bearing I get will not be nearly as good. Only other new parts I need will be the two radial bearings in the first pulley, sealed ball bearing where the input shaft goes through the housing, support flange for the sealed ball bearing, new oil seals for the gearbox and, of course, new drive belts. The old belts appear to be originals making them almost 30 years old.

Edited by artbuc, December 27, 2013 - 05:35 AM.

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#12 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2013 - 12:49 PM

Well, making some progress. As I wait for parts I am able to alternatively apply heat and PB blaster. With the auger shaft propped in vertical, the PB pools in the depression between shaft OD and auger ID. Picking it up and using it like a big slide hammer, I have been able to move it enough to see an offset in the shear bolt hole. The rust bind is definitely on the gear box end.

#13 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2013 - 07:32 PM

Happy New Year!!

The deed is done! Using lots of heat, PB Blaster, patience, a puller and an 18" section of 1-1/4" pipe as a slide hammer and a 1-1/4" cast iron split pipe hanger to protect the auger hub, she slowly broke free. It was rusted for about 4" in from the gearbox side. No wonder I could not loosen it while it was still assembled.

#14 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2014 - 11:46 AM

Job done! Spent about $220 for new belts and bearings. Biggest cost was $70 for the seized pulley I had to cut off the wormshaft. She is running better than ever. Thanks for your help. Bring on the snow.

#15 artbuc OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2014 - 12:47 PM

Just had my first chance to blow snow. She worked great. Snow was perfect - about a foot of nice light stuff that blew a mile. Unseizing the idlers, new belts and bearings made a big difference. One thing for sure, I will never let a rake rust on the shaft again.




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