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1999 F450 Super Duty: Work And Repair Thread


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#136 CRE1992 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 01:26 PM

Charles, In all fairness the 6.5 Duramax had a lot of issues in it's first 3 years of being used and GM was looking at replacing it with the very same Cummins that Dodge used at that time. Before GM could get a contract, Dodge tried up the rights so that GM couldn't use it. Shortly after that GM was able to fix the reliability issues it had with the 6.5. Not trying to start anything or step on toes, just setting the fact straight.

 

Btw, That is a very nice looking 2500HD and great to hear how well it is on fuel. I was and still am a Chevy man, just had very good luck with the Ford 6.9-7.3 diesel super duty trucks.

 

I take no offense to what you have to say, but the 6.5L is a completely different engine made by Detroit diesel and is not a duramax. The 6.6L Duramax is a collaboration between Isuzu and GM. We had 2 duramaxs when they first came out and had no problems what so ever. The 7.3L power stroke is an outstanding and time proven engine. The IDI is also a great engine, virtually indestructible if taken care of, another work truck I drive is a 1992 F-450 Dump with an IDI it has been through 3 E4OD automatic transmissions, and we just swapped in a ZF5 manual trans. The engine is very under powered compared to today's diesels, and the truck gets used and abused daily. I have had that truck extremely over loaded... 5+ tons of crushed concrete in the back, and she still chuggs along, shes slow but the job gets done.

 

Also thanks for the complement on my truck. She getting some upgrades even though she is new. You would think that if GM put steering stabilizer mounts under the truck, that the trucks would come with steering stabilizers for as much as they cost... But no they do not...


Edited by CRE1992, December 19, 2013 - 01:27 PM.

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#137 farmerall OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 02:59 PM

When you replace the lines look into the nickel/copper line. It comes in rolls and is very easy to bend and work with, the hardest part of using it is making the flares.


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#138 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 03:54 PM

Ok, both of the leaking line have been replaced. Even though they where replaced, I am not sure if there are still any leaks. When the truck is off, the pedal is stiff, but when it is running, it feels like it has a terrible leak! When I drive back and forth, it does not have much stopping power; I know it is heavy, but it should stop faster, at least I think so? I have looked for leaks with somebody pushing the pedal, but I don't see anything. I am worried there is an internal leak with a caliper or something. All of the front lines look great.

I also noticed today that once it warms up, it will not start without a shot of silicone spray. What could this problem be? Should I just let it run some more and hope it clears up?
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#139 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 03:59 PM

Ryan, Are you sure you bled all the air out of those lines. Air will make it feel like you have no brakes at all!!


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#140 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2013 - 04:01 PM

Ryan, Are you sure you bled all the air out of those lines. Air will make it feel like you have no brakes at all!!


I am 100% sure! That I did not get it all out... I totally forgot to bleed them. Lol
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#141 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2013 - 11:11 AM

and also start with the line furthest from the master cyl then to the next closest and so on. you can also do what is called a gravity bleed where ya open up the bleeder and wait, but that might not work for im not sure how the brake system is set up on a bigger truck like yours.


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#142 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2013 - 12:47 PM

 

Charles, In all fairness the 6.5 Duramax had a lot of issues in it's first 3 years of being used and GM was looking at replacing it with the very same Cummins that Dodge used at that time. Before GM could get a contract, Dodge tried up the rights so that GM couldn't use it. Shortly after that GM was able to fix the reliability issues it had with the 6.5. Not trying to start anything or step on toes, just setting the fact straight.

 

 

That sucks too. Instead of getting a great truck with a great Cummins engine, you get a great engine, then you're stuck with the junk that surrounds it :watch_over_fence:  :bigrofl:

 

Ryan glad to hear it's running. Can't give you 1 ounce of help on the starting issue.


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#143 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2013 - 05:53 PM

I have looked around on google, and all I found about not starting when it is hot is to unplug the ICP, if it starts it is a bad IPR. Despite being a brand new IPR I tried it, and it was not different. I thought since I already switched the ICP with another (one of the first things I did with the truck) I would change it back, to see what happened... No change.

Also, my mom told me that the truck was having this problem, my dad reabuilt the IPR, and it stopped running, since he lost that one internal piece. Now with the new IPR I am back to where my dad started with it.

#144 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2013 - 06:17 PM

Ryan I've got a buddy that's a Ford diesel mechanic, if I can get ahold of him I'll ask but I still think a scanner is the way to go. Have you ohm'd the glow plug and fuel injector harnesses? Those are common issues.
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#145 CRE1992 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 11:33 AM

That sucks too. Instead of getting a great truck with a great Cummins engine, you get a great engine, then you're stuck with the junk that surrounds it :watch_over_fence:  :bigrofl:

 

Ryan glad to hear it's running. Can't give you 1 ounce of help on the starting issue.

 

The same thing could be said about Dodges! Great engine, horrible trans, and horrible steel it all rots out quickly!  :shoot2:


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#146 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 05:35 PM

Brian put the scanner on the truck after I let it run and get hot. The oil pressure is at 190 psi, and is supposed to be at 500 psi. This means that the HPOP is bad. They cost $380 online with free shipping.

#147 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 06:03 PM

They can be rebuilt too...
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#148 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 06:05 PM

Ryan it might just be a bad injector o-ring ,  when the oil is cold it doesn't pass the bad o-ring ( s)  and it will let it build the 500 psi it needs to fire thee injector . A  6.0 which uses HP engine oil like the 7.3 , I worked on last week had  bad dummy plug o-rings .started in  5-8 second cold  instead of 3-5 what the factory calls , warm engine about 20-30 seconds , no start hot unless ether was used .Not saying 100% without further testing


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#149 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 07:36 PM

I agree with Al, a leak is possible but first lets go back and think about the IPR with the missing piece. Are you sure its working right? Did Brian try to control it with the scan tool and see if it made a difference?  Did he run any cylinder contribution tests that might point to a problem with an injector? You can probably find different ways to check the high press system for leaks. I thought you said your dad had already changed the HPOP and injectors? I'd say replace the IPR with a new one, preferably Ford or IH orig equipment since you know there was a problem there and you had to rig something to fix it.


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#150 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2013 - 08:16 PM

Not sure but there might be a air pressure test you can do on the 7.3 HP oil system without a scan tool


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