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Amperage Draw


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#1 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 10:51 AM

Been having a blast tinkering and fixing the prev owners  feeble attempts to keep the old girl running..

 

The 1556 seems to be ready for winter... One thing I noticed is yesterday I had the trickle charger on it,, and it read charged,,  I needed the extention cord for awhile for another project, When I went to plug in the charger again It showed it was charging.. It has been on for about  8 hrs. now and and still no full charge..   NOW,, other than the batt.  not being the greatest, or not new..Is there places on the tractor that I can check for Amp draw with every thing off ?? and if so  what's the best way to go about it ? Should I use a test light or ohm meter ? 

 

          What wires on the start switch are hot all the time

 

          would any of the switches be able to draw amps ?   with the key off

 

          If I used a test light, and put it on the ground,, then checked for a hot wire would that work ?

 

  I read tinkerers thread about   ELEC  101   ( which was exellent  by the way )  But read nothing about checking for amp draw..

 

   Any thoughts on this or help would be app.                          Thanks     sodi


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#2 Bud W ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 11:11 AM

sodi

easiest is to use a test light, dis-connect the ground from the battery connect the test light between battery ground post and the ground cable. if the light lights, something is drawing current. then start dis-connecting wires from the positive side until the light goes out.


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#3 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 11:12 AM

Amperage has to be measured with an ammeter. It shows how mush power is being used by an electrical device. Wattage is the heat/energy that is being displaced by a device and voltage is the number of flowing electrons to create the power.

Using a test light will only show a completed circuit where an ohm meter will show the amount of resistance within the cicuit.

 

I believe you meant to title your topic as Completed or open electrical circuit. That's all you can do with a test light and multimeter.


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#4 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 11:27 AM

MyBolens1053 is correct. If you think you have a draw on the system take an ammeter and clamp it around the positive cable off the battery it should show zero it if does then you need to start looking.

 

But if you are going by a battery tender then I would first reset it and see what happens.  I keep one on my bike all the time.  If I move my bike and unplug the tender it then plug it back in it will show charging again but I'm not sure how long it takes to show fully charged again.  Also make sure your fluid levels are correct if you haven't already done so.


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#5 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 11:45 AM

Using a test light will only show a completed circuit where an ohm meter will show the amount of resistance within the cicuit.
 
I believe you meant to title your topic as Completed or open electrical circuit. That's all you can do with a test light and multimeter.


Bud W has it right when he says to connect the test light between the cable and the battery. If the light is on, there is amperage flowing through the circuit. I use that test all the time.
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#6 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 06:46 PM

  If the amp draw is low enough it won't show on a test light.

                                                   Mike


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#7 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 07:01 PM

If the amp draw is low enough it won't show on a test light.
                                                   Mike


A parasitic load like that won't kill the battery very quick. I've seen mine to where the filament was just barely glowing. It just looked like an orange thread.
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#8 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 11:43 PM

An Amp meter will give you the best readings if you place between the positive cable and post on the battery. Most Multi meters have this capability but are only protected to 5 Amps. If the draw is more then that, it will blow the fuse in the meter to protect the meter. I once spent a few days working on a friend's car that would have a dead battery if it set for more then 3 days. Turns out the reverse switch on the trans was bad and had a short in it enough to allow 0.3 power thru it to the back up lights. That wasn't enough to even make the filament in the bulb turn orange, but would drain the battery in a few days. Good luck and let us know what you find.


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#9 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 01:28 AM

This is great info guys. Thanks for posting the question and thanks for providing great info.
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#10 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 06:32 AM

All good info here and Brian makes good point about the internal fuses in the multi meters  (using it inline not using with  an inductive clamp ) , I know that for a fact they blow quick   :wallbanging:    I'll start with a test light first and it it lights , will start there if not then switch to a multi meter  at the highest Amp setting , mine has 2


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#11 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 10:08 AM

Thanks all for the great info.  It's 8 degrees out and that will give me reason to heat the garage and tinker.


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#12 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2013 - 08:39 PM

A parasitic load like that won't kill the battery very quick. I've seen mine to where the filament was just barely glowing. It just looked like an orange thread.

 

If you suspect a trickle loss of voltage happening. take an ammeter and a wire long enough to wrap like a spring 10 times and reach the positive battery terminal and its place of contact. The wraps in the wire multiply the magnetic field by 10 and should give you a better reading to go by.


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