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Power Steering?


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#31 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2014 - 11:44 AM

Yeah sometimes I think I oughta just give it up, and buy a New Holland Boomer 20 or 30 with a  FEL and brush hog, but it wouldn't be half as fun, and I don't need the $200 plus a month payment for the next 72 months either.


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#32 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2014 - 12:23 AM

Started tearing the tractor down to rebuild the steering and add the power box.  Going to try to go with the Saturn Vue steering box idea someone posed earlier in the thread.  I re-engineered the front spindles to 1" by boring a set of 1" stub axles out, heating them and slipping them over the existing spindles.  Still need to add bracing at the bend of the new 1" spindle and the steering arm.

 

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#33 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2014 - 12:46 AM

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So I finally got a day to head to the local Pick N Pull and finally got my electric steering box!  Only cost me about 75 miles round trip on the truck (had to go to 2 junkyards, the first Pick N Pull already had the steering box ripped out), $49 bucks and one skinned knuckle.  It's actually not from a Saturn Vue but a 2003 Saturn Ion as they used the same box. Got it home, and already I can see some issues.  First is this thing is BIG!  Like might stick out the side of the tractor big!   There is a large DC motor that powers it, and I'm not sure yet how I'm gonna get around that one.  The engine hood might cover it, but I think I'll definitely have to cut a hole in one of the tower panels.

 

Second issue I can already see is the battery is probably gonna have to be moved, and I have no clue yet where to.  I might have to build some kind of box on the front of the frame and behind the grill.  Gonna have to be off to one side though so I can still have access to the front crank where I'm gonna mount my hydraulic pump. 

 

Also for those of you who've been following this thread and may attempt it if I'm successful I can offer my first tip; don't tear your tractor completely down like I did.  I'm going to have to reassemble a good majority of the tower and pulley assemblies so I can make sure it all fits, check clearances and a build a bracket to mount the steering box to that fits and clears too. 

 

Got all my outside stuff buttoned up for the winter so I'm hoping I can get into the garage the next few weekends and start going on this, but got a bad feeling this is going to be a slow process with a lot of trial and error.  I'll post more pics when I make some progress. 


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#34 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2014 - 12:49 AM

With Veterans Day off (Thanks to all the vets our there for your service) I was able to tinker a little bit with the electric steering box and get a bit of a gameplan.  Last night when I brought it home, I was on the fence as to whether or not I could make it all fit.  I put the tower back together, the lower steering plate and steering gear back on as well as the firewall, battery tray and the pulley guard that's over the rearward facing part of the crank.  I think I can do this without moving the battery, without cutting a hole in the tower for the DC motor and, I'm pretty certain I can use the existing steering column/shaft.  I'll have to cut down the long shaft on the steering box I pulled out of the Saturn and remove about 4 inches of it, but it's doable. 

 

I plan to use the existing 3 mounting holes on the Saturn box and I'll have to make a custom triangular shaped bracket, and find some spots on the frame/tower to weld to.  The battery tray and the two tower side panels are a little too thin (14 or 16 gauge sheet metal) so I'm going to have to use the rear part of the tower.  I'm contemplating fabricating a beefier battery tray out of 1/8" or 3/16" plate and I can get a third mounting spot that way in the front of the Saturn steering box that way.  I'll have to essentially cut the middle out of the Craftsman steering column/shaft and make a couple of custom couplers to make it one solid shaft.  The stock steering column is 3/4" and one side of the Saturn box has a shaft that is .65 and the other is .66.   That'll take some engineering but I think I'll get there.

 

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#35 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2014 - 08:33 PM

Finally got a few hours to do some fabricating on the power steering for the GT18.  Came out pretty good I think.  I had the whole frame and most of the parts sandblasted, made the welding a lot better.  Still need to power the unit up and test, but the box itself feels smooth and I think everything is aligned as it should be.

 

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had to cut part of the shaft down with a porta band, then made some custom adapters out of 5/8" DOM tubing
 
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The first two support brackets were easy, used a piece of 1/4" x 3 for the rear, and 1/4" x 1 1/2" for the right side
 
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Not real happy with how the left side brace came out, kinda goofy looking but I had to take what the tractor and steering box gave me, didn't have a lot of options here.  It holds weight and handles stress on the frame which is what I was aiming for.
 
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Gotta add a few more pieces for the FEL, brackets and whatnot, then time for paint!

 

 

 

 

 


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#36 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2014 - 10:29 PM

That is impressive!



#37 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2015 - 01:53 PM

Got a little more done on the GT18.  Got it all painted up the weekend of New Years and have started putting it back together.

 
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Had to build a new steering crank for the two front end tie rods.  I'm beefing the front rods up from the 3/8" ones to 1/2" and using 1/2" ball joint swivels.  The heads are larger on them then the stock ones so they would've crowded and rubbed each other.  Also beefing the rod that connects to the steering arm up to 5/8" ball joint swivels and wanted a little more clearance for it.  Wasn't too hard to do.  Took a piece of 3/8" flat stock and cut it with a porta band.  It's about a half inch wider than the stock piece.  I took the 7/8" round pivot arm out of the old crank and just welded it back into the new one in the same position. 
 
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Working on making the new tie rods and steering arm linkage right now.  I'll post some more pics when I have those done and the new bolt on front hubs done.
 
 
 

 


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#38 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2015 - 01:36 AM

Got the tie rods all fab-ed up and installed, front hubs on and new tires and wheels mounted.  Was able to get the engine back in, and next project is I need to adapt the front mule drive to accept my hydraulic pump to run the FEL.  Wanted to mount it directly to the crank and remove the PTO clutch, but wont have enough room for the grille.  Still haven't fired up the electric power steering as I need to reinstall all the wiring, wire in the steering box and get a new battery but I'm a lot closer than I was a week or two ago. 

 
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#39 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2015 - 04:07 AM

I sure hope you have all the sensors from the column for that as well? Or I is just a simple 12 v dc motor. Those things are PCM controlled and were a total nightmare to diagnose sensor issues. We would just replace the entire column. Good luck

Edited by skyrydr2, February 12, 2015 - 04:09 AM.

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#40 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2015 - 06:16 AM

It's looking really nice :thumbs:  


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#41 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2015 - 08:17 AM

Love those front tires, what brand and make are they?


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#42 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2015 - 10:21 AM

I sure hope you have all the sensors from the column for that as well? Or I is just a simple 12 v dc motor. Those things are PCM controlled and were a total nightmare to diagnose sensor issues. We would just replace the entire column. Good luck

I believe it's just a simple DC motor, there were no sensors that I could see when I pulled the column apart at the junkyard.  The steering wheel was connected via a female spline and just came right off the shaft



#43 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2015 - 10:23 AM

Love those front tires, what brand and make are they?

They're Carlisle snow blower tires actually.  Got them from Surpluscenter.com.  They were real inexpensive, only $46 for the pair and came on steel wheels, but I had to take those off so I could put them on a four bolt wheel, but might use the wheels they came with for a small trailer or something.


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#44 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2015 - 10:30 AM

I bet this looks familiar, it is the same unit you have, but used to turn my shute. It had a sensor on the rack just as the shaft pasted through the floor/ firewall. Some had it up just above the tilt knuckle , it all depended on the model. Those units were all controlled by the pcm, as they were speed sensitive.

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#45 Firemang OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2015 - 01:08 AM

I bet this looks familiar, it is the same unit you have, but used to turn my shute. It had a sensor on the rack just as the shaft pasted through the floor/ firewall. Some had it up just above the tilt knuckle , it all depended on the model. Those units were all controlled by the pcm, as they were speed sensitive.

I see what you're driving at, and appreciate the heads up.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but there is a rheostat and control module you can purchase (which I have) made for homemade race cars that takes the place of the sensors, inputting to the steering box ECU how much power to supply to the motor based on how high you have the switch turned up.  Here's a pic of it and the instructions, cost about $65 on Ebay.

 

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