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Gggrrr, This 8N Is Making Me Pull My Hair Out.


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#31 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 12, 2013 - 10:04 AM

Was doing better, then woke up this morning, hacking/coughing from drainage, then slight sore throat again. My back is still sore so every time I cough, practically puts me on the floor, like having sore ribs. Man I planned to haul hay tomorrow too and gotta climb up in the Tahoe and replace ignition parts too.... more drugs!!!! :D



#32 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2013 - 08:02 AM

Sounds like it has moved into bronchitis which I know all to well.  Better play it safe and visit a doc.



#33 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 01:59 PM

Update.

Did some more work finally, thought I would have it running but nope.

 

*I removed plugs, poured little MMO in cyls, then spun it over, let it sit. Then before I left I poured just a little tranny fluid in each one, now it will sit for at least a week before I get back out there.

 

* I  originally checked fire at only middle two plugs, the outside two were rusted in head and I only had a short ratchet so I couldn't remove them. Well, Saturday I took my cheater pipe and pulled plugs....DOH!!! The front one was completely carboned up, no way it was even firing.

 

*Friday night I pulled carb back apart just in case it go clogged. I noticed the venturi tube had a little piece chipped out of edge. I vaguely remember putting it back in like that thinking it would not matter. I found a good website, John's vintage Iron, that explains in detail functions of carb internals....lets just say new venturi order and on it's way :wallbanging:

 

* I replaced the restistor with one from tractor supply. It had the factory one, but I read somewhere that it is really only needed for 12V.

Anyway, the new one I think has something wrong. I should get 6.75 V across resistor going to coil. I get 6.75 to one side, but then only about 4 V coming out. I think I need that 6 V to fire coil....What am I missing?

 

 

2013-12-21_11-05-42_740_zpsece3e24d.jpg



#34 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 02:28 PM

Does this tractor have a 12v battery in it?

#35 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 03:59 PM

  The carboned plug on the left looks like it may be bearing bad news for that cyl w/ the rust around the electrode.

                                                  Mike



#36 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 07:44 PM

  The carboned plug on the left looks like it may be bearing bad news for that cyl w/ the rust around the electrode.

                                                  Mike

 

Bad head gasket and antifreeze in the combustion chamber was my initial though when I saw that...



#37 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 08:02 PM

The carboned plug on the left looks like it may be bearing bad news for that cyl w/ the rust around the electrode.
                                                  Mike

Bad head gasket and antifreeze in the combustion chamber was my initial though when I saw that...


I think a compression test is a good idea... The tractor may still run, but that plug isn't normal...

#38 Sparky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2013 - 08:08 PM

The drop across the resistor is based upon an average current thru the points and coil . The output of the coil feeds the plugs . If one socket for the plug wires is shunting thru the bakelight to ground , that eats up current and keeps the plug from firing . It can give false indications of what's happening . A bad clip on plug  wire  end - ditto .  All easy to check and verify  so the E-T'r says . But should not be ignored as a possibility.

 

 

 

    Add : misspelling bakelite reminded me that a bad distributor cap or leaky wire would show up in the dark on a running engine  . This not limited to just the 8N . One plug not firing lets residue build up in a hurry .


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#39 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2013 - 07:25 AM

Does this tractor have a 12v battery in it?

 

Still has the original 6 V positive ground, PO has heck of time finding a new 6V battery local, seems no one carries them anymore.

 

 

  The carboned plug on the left looks like it may be bearing bad news for that cyl w/ the rust around the electrode.

                                                  Mike

 

There is no rust on the electrode, it more built up carbon. but obviously not firing properly.

 

PO said it ran great when it was running, again, he just quit using it, not that it quit running.

I need to see if I can rent or borrow compression tester and take with me next time  

 

 

Soooo Sparky, if I read right, the output voltage off the resistor can be effected from voltage that is put out of coil to points?

I did not try to start, I just installed then check voltage with meter, ignition on. 6.7 coming in, 4.0 going out.



#40 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2013 - 07:45 AM

You should not need that resistor in there... At least until you get it running, then I would put the original back in. Maybe.
The two big reasons for the resistor is if you've converted to 12v, the points and coil won't hold up and if you're still on 6, the resistors were in there to extend the life of the points. The coil will fire at below 6v, but the spark will begin to get a little wimpy.

IMHO, take the resistor out, get it running, then play with putting it back in. Oh, and replace the condenser if you haven't yet.

#41 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2013 - 08:08 AM





There is no rust on the electrode, it more built up carbon. but obviously not firing properly


I wasn't referring to the carbon buildup on the electrode. The rust just below the threads was what caught my eye.
Mike

#42 Sparky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2013 - 08:51 PM

I was a little incorrect about current in relation to cap condition , however coil condition of insulation would be a factor . My main point was that it may not have been firing ok on all four when parked . The points can be a pain when they have the smallest amount of metal or conductive junk around them .      

 

  The big thing is compression testing and a properly working ignition system is needed before calling the  block internals defective .



#43 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted December 23, 2013 - 11:04 PM

Tahoe are you talking about John Smiths old Ford Tractors site? If you are I owe you an apology!! as soon as you said you was working on an 8n I ALMOST POSTED A LINK TO HIS SITE/

#44 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2013 - 07:15 AM



Tahoe are you talking about John Smiths old Ford Tractors site? If you are I owe you an apology!! as soon as you said you was working on an 8n I ALMOST POSTED A LINK TO HIS SITE/

 

This one.....??

 

http://www.johnsoldiron.com/

 

My venturi just shipped so I will have to wait till it shows up before any more work.

Going to see if I can find a compression tester and I already bought a new coil, points, condensor. Figured I would go ahead and install all that new since I think my 30 day refund is over so can't return it.



#45 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 24, 2013 - 07:44 AM

Not sure how the factory designed the ignition system on the 8n but on my Ford 3400 it uses a resister wire but during starting it bypasses it and sends 12 volts to the coil ,yours might be. 6 volts




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