I cut apart the oxy/actylene rack I got from Aaron some time back. I needed to see what the metal would look like under the tractor. I won't be starting this right away. But I needed something to do for the next few days while the weather was nasty. So, after getting some measurements, I can work up a drawing to see how this will fit. I plan to use the deck lift for this. I have 3.5" of lift there, not sure what that will work out to with the pivot points as yet. There is plenty of room under the tractor @ 14.5". Blade is only 8" tall.
Kenny it looks like you may have a good plan, I think it will work. Good luck with the remaining portion, you'll have that done in no time the way you are going now, and then what.
This will be another KTP special, Alan! (KTP = Kenny's Tractor Port)
I'll start plugging the dimensions into the drawing tomorrow to see what works. I'm not sure if I can 'swing' it off the rear mower attachments, but would like to. That would put the pressure pushing on the mounts. We'll see! This may be an all winter build as I have to look at temps to work out there. But, if I can get it all figured out, it will go quick from there. Getting the swivel and tilt figured out will be the most fun.
That looks just about perfect sitting under that FF. Are you going to push or drag it. By that I mean attaching it to the front or rear of the frame. I've seen it done both ways.
That looks just about perfect sitting under that FF. Are you going to push or drag it. By that I mean attaching it to the front or rear of the frame. I've seen it done both ways.
Will, hadn't thought about putting one on. It's 0.300" thick and at an angle where it meets the ground, so would take some time to wear it down. But I will keep that in mind.
I'm going to put this out here as an option. This will be very heavy on it's own, thus making it a possible challenge to get under there and hooked up. I may look into making it a pull behind with trailing wheels. Just an option at this point. I am going to weigh the one section of blade today. It is nearly half the total width, so that will give an idea of what finished weight will be. I plan to enlist Aaron to weld the two sections of blade together.
Pull it from the front making sure it is biast to the front. If you run down pressure on it , its best to lift the front wheels. I have many many hours on a moto- mower with one under it!! THEY WORK AWSOME!!!
Kenny, I've been :watch_over_fence: since you first got the tank holder. As Skyrydr2 said pull from the front, modified "A" type frame, possibly connected to front axle pivot?(don't know if it would be strong enough) Then use the deck lift on the rear. Maybe a hand crank on one side to cock the unit up or down to allow "dig" at the edge. You need to make this into a belly blade if for no other reason than the "cool factor." :rocker2: Plus, I need to see it done before starting mine. :smilewink:
I may be able to attach it at the front off the mule drive holder. Just have to see what that looks like, plus I would have the axle to go under. It's going to weigh about 70 lbs, so ease to attach will be the main concern. That could make the mule drive point a non use due to getting it under & between the front tires. I have some things to do outside today before it gets nasty, so I won't start drawing until tomorrow.
As far as the 'tilt' (side-to-side), I have a plan on that. It will be something similar to the older Sears grader blades with the two pipe sections. I'll get some more pics today of what I have been gathering for this.
Looks like a good starting point Kenny. I've seen the pull behind wheeled type York Rakes and they work very well. They use a castor wheel so that it will pivot.
My blade had angle, tilt, and pitch just like a full sized rig, to be honest I never really angled it, but I did use the tilt and pitch all the time.
Pitchdown for ffinish grading and pitch up for roughing/ contouring. It was a true working grading machine and my r/c track was the envy of area racing circuit.
So just a pinch more food for thought;-)
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