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Trying To Move My Hub


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#1 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 02:08 PM

I need to move the rear hub out away from the transmission on the 67 SS12.  I am trying to put on the chains that I got from Littledeere.  The left hub is pretty tight to the transmission so there is hardly any clearance on the inside between the tire and fender.  It is the older split style.  There is a long bolt to loosen and then a small square head bolt against the key.  That one also has a nut.  Is this a lock nut that I need to loosen in order to back the square head screw out?   And, can this be done without removing the wheel? 


Edited by robert_p43, December 03, 2013 - 06:18 PM.


#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 06:35 PM

I'm sorry, I've never had to move mine. I can go out after I cook supper and see if I can tell.
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#3 KC9KAS ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 07:29 PM

I'm sure the nut is a lock nut for the square head bolt.


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#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 08:35 PM

OK, now I know what you mean. The hex nut has to be a locknut for that bolt. I would get plenty of penetrating oil in there and shine up the shaft as much as you can before you try to move it. Oh, and be careful with pullers. I have seen several broken hubs from pullers. Better to let it set for a day soaking.
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#5 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 09:21 PM

I have heard of broken hubs, this is why I asked.  I don't want to make a mistake.  I also don't have a large puller and hoping to get it to move without having to pull the wheel.  If not, I will just take the plunge and go for it.  I need to pull a hub on the other tractor, one of these days, to replace an axle seal.  This will give me practice for that job.

Thank You


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#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 06:22 AM

If you get the bolt out that holds the key and get some penetrating oil on it and it doesn't want to pull off then try torque on the wheel instead. Drive the tractor and use the brakes to stop on a hard surface. The torque may break the bond on the axle and make it easier to pull it off. I have used this method before with success. Some heat carefully applied may help but it's easy to go too far and damage seals.


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#7 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 02:26 PM

I was able to get wrenches on everything but had no luck getting anything loose as I couldn't get any leverage.  So, I grabbed a jack, pulled the wheel weight and then the wheel.  The wheel didn't want to come off but after a couple of kicks, it came loose.  Then, everything loosened right up easily and with gentle prying, it slid out nicely.  I tightened the lock bolts and reinstalled the wheel and weight.  Then I put the chains on while it was still jacked up.  The chains fit nice and I was able to get them pretty tight.  Are adjusters absolutely necessary? 


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#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 06:11 PM

Tensioners, I would have some on the outside at least. I use some springs from old dishwasher doors...

As for the bolts and nuts, etc... Drive it around for a while and make sure you check tightness afterwards.




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