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Craftsman Sleeve Hitch Converted To Sears 3Pt


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#1 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2013 - 07:10 PM

So while at Ball Hollow plow day, I bought a group of implements from a member ( cant' remember his name, him and his wife drove up from Atlanta) one which included a newer craftsman hitch plate/handle and a lower sleeve hitch arm/hoop. The Craftsman sleeve hoop fits on the hitch plate with two short pins/clips. The Sears 3 pt is a bar through rear hitch plate and is much narrower, too narrow to just slide the sleeve hoop on.....so that meant MODIFICATION :thumbs:

I have the issue that is I get something, when I mod it, I make sure I do it so it can be reversed back to factory or used as it was, same for this. Since the sleeve arms on the hoop were too wide, I decided to make new bars that would bolt on to the sleeve arms at the same time move the arm width in so they would fit the Sears 3 pt lower bar.

I just happen to find 4- 3/16" bars that were almost the perfect width and I just ha to cut a short piece off the end. I clamped them together and stitch welded in a few places, this made a 3/8 bar in a sense, hopefully this will be strong enough. Drilled some holes which lined up in the holes of the sleeve arms, bolted them together.

I then needed some way to lift it. The Craftsman hitch uses one bar in the middle, Sears uses too links, one on each arm.

I took a piece a angle, welded it to my new bars, then drilled a hole to attach.

Once those were done, I threw a coat of paint on it all, then once dry, attached it. The bars were still just a tad wide, but there is enough spring in the arm I was able to clip one side, then push the other side in enough to slide on a washer and clip. Works well.

 

I also decided to make a quicky hitch stop. With no implement, the sleeve hitch or my Sears lower arms for that matter, sit to low when lowered. I also needed to keep it at a certain height so I can pulled my yard trailers. Too low and the tongue on trailer binds up.

So, just a couple pieces of angle, welded at proper places and there ya go. I bolted the front hole, used the hitch link for the front hole. I can pull link pin, slide off hitch stop, the replace link in hole and makes hitch stop ineffective if I need to drop implement to the ground, say like the moldboard that make need that extra drop.

Welded a nut on the bottom angle and when lowered it rides on part of hitch plate. I can always put in longer bolt if I need to keep hitch up higher.

Only issue is the top bolt prevents the hitch assembly from going all the way forward and locking. I ground part of the head off, but not enough. I may cut the head completely off and weld the stud in the angle then grind smooth. This would give clearance for the side link to clear and hitch to lock in up position.

 

So here are all the pics, I'll just post kind of in order. Also pics of my new to me box blade with scarifier teeth, this was the only reason I bought all the implements.....I wanted this!!! I need a longer pin to make it sit right and then I can adjust sleeve bolt to make it tight. I may need to add an  assist bar to my lift arm...that booger is heavy to lift not to mention the mods make it sit farther out from tractor. I got it to stay up, but just barely, you have to hold it up while moving.  I really need to modify the old Sears hitch I have with the electric actuator under the work bench to make and electric lift hitch :D

 

Parts starting with

photobucket-1715-1384564286654_zpsd72bf4

 

welding bars together

photobucket-9974-1384564310316_zps51b9ea

 

Attaching to sleeve arms

photobucket-2496-1384564333919_zps148875

photobucket-6305-1384564353511_zps229bb9

 

on tractor

photobucket-4844-1385939605214_zpsf32421

 

Hitch stop

 

photobucket-3448-1385939529785_zps080c34

 

photobucket-8405-1385939644814_zps93c975

photobucket-6294-1385939682822_zpsa250dc

 

interference bolt

photobucket-6771-1385939560665_zps6809a5

photobucket-6396-1385939622073_zpsd8dbd8

 

Box blade down

 

photobucket-7106-1385939704450_zps0c141d

 

blade up

 

photobucket-6937-1385939734452_zps99da3f

 


Edited by TAHOE, December 01, 2013 - 07:35 PM.

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#2 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 01, 2013 - 08:09 PM

Nicely done, it feels good even when someone else's mission is accomplished. Nice box blade as well.


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#3 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2013 - 09:52 AM

Yea, I got the box blade, hitch assembly, and a spike aerator in the package, none of them looked liked they had been used more than a couple times. The aerator went bye-bye yesterday.

I know need to make a sleeve attachment with just a flat plate so I can use to tow my yard trailers around.

I may remove the scarifiers and side plates ( bolted on) for now and use as back blade with my front snow blade for snow removal...hopefully we don't get any :thumbs:



#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2013 - 10:00 AM

Looks good. Might be a little far back by most standards, but if it works for you that's all that counts.


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#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2013 - 12:32 PM

Marty, that's a great idea. It's shorter than the regular arms with adapter, looks nice too. :thumbs:
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#6 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2013 - 12:47 PM

Looks good. Might be a little far back by most standards, but if it works for you that's all that counts.

 

Yea, I could always drill another hole farther up the arms where it attaches to tractor to move it up some, may help the lifting too since it would move it closer to tractor.... I really have to put some butt behind it to lift it then I have to hold it cause that one bolt on the thick stop prevents it from going into lock position.

Looking back at the pics, I maybe able to remove the blade from the rear cross bar and move it to the front one. May not be able to spin blade completely around like that, but would move most of weight and actual blade closer to tractor.

 

I have my mom's gravel drive that needs dressed, guess I will see how well is works. 

 

It's a work in progress :thumbs:


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#7 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 09:15 PM

Finished it up tonight, cut head off the bolt for the hitch stop so lift link would pass, welded it, then ground smooth....Houston we have full lock in upright position :rocker2:

Then I moved the pivot for blade to the front bar. I have hangover, but it moved blade closer to tractor and makes it so much easier to lift. Time will tell if it will work there.

 

Got front blade mounted for the white death coming tomorrow. :D

 

photobucket-4607-1386294566412_zps027318

 

photobucket-10245-1386294589543_zps25162

 

photobucket-9126-1386294612945_zps149a2c

 

 


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#8 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 11:32 PM

The conversion looks really good Marty. It should work well for you. Post photos of all that snow you pile up with it,



#9 DPike43 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 12:03 AM

TAHOE, looks like you have that project figured out. That set of implements came from Val Long, didn't it?



#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 06:42 AM

Glad it's is working! Have fun!



#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 07:33 AM

Marty, glad that worked out for you. Is it still hard to lift (as in moving the pivot may still be in the plans)?

#12 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 07:51 AM

Looks good there Tahoe!

#13 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 09:49 AM

TAHOE, looks like you have that project figured out. That set of implements came from Val Long, didn't it?

 

Uhm, didn't get the gentleman's name. He and his wife came up from Atlanta for plow day at Daniel's?

He had a JD430 I think.

He made me deal I couldn't pass up, been looking for a box blade or rear grader for a while :thumbs:

 

Marty, glad that worked out for you. Is it still hard to lift (as in moving the pivot may still be in the plans)?

 

With moving the box closer to tractor, it made it much easier to lift, being able to lock it up now really helps too. II will see how this works, I think if I move it forward on lower pins, it will change the angles of my lift arms and not lift properly or lock right and I already welded those brackets on.

Cutting and welding that bolt made huge difference, only an inch or to more forward change it tremendously. :dancingbanana:

 

We are supposed to get 6-8" tonight I'll see how she works. My buddy used a rear grader, said it's useless for snow other than pulling it away from like the garage or sidewalks. Snow packs up between blade and rear tires. If nothing else, extra weight back there. With the ice we are getting first, the teeth may come in handy on the gravel drives breaking up the ice.

Since I moved it forward, I have overhang ou thte back. If it works alright, I may find a heavy piece of 1 1/2" tube and just make a short mount and remove that big square assembly, no way I could had weight and be able to lift anyway.

 

 

Thanks all for comments!!!!

This has been one of the "wants" I've looked for since I got tractor 2 1/2 yrs ago. :rocker2:

 

My next BIG project will be getting the Massey back together then building my mini FEL for it.... but house comes first :smilewink:



#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 12:12 PM

I find that the back blade is perfect for pulling away so you can get in there with the front.
5-6" of snow, maybe 10-12 feet, then it packs up and then you can't pull it. I just back over it and push from there with the front blade.
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#15 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 09:13 AM

Instead of starting a new thread, I will just add on to this one regarding my box blade usage.

 

Box blade worked great for snow removal. I would pull snow out far enough to be able to back over it and then push with front blade. After pushing, I would then go back drag box and clean up drive, made it very nice. :smilewink:  

 

Okay, now on to grading driveway. Did this for the first time last night at my moms. She has a hard packed 3/4" crushed limestone drive, after scraping alot of the top rocks during snow removal and just constant compaction, drive became a basic muddy limestone mess. Dad would always just get another load, but this drive actually needs dropped about another 1" and really just needs dressed and roughened up. What I was able to do turned out pretty well, just need to break it up more so I can grade the height down some. Wasn't walking in mud this morning :rocker2:

 

I was also trying to scrape up some dirt that has built up on the back drive over the years. I know there is a gravel base, but dad never kept up with it, I need to strip the layer of grass/dirt/leaves, etc to prepare for replacing gravel and rebuilding drive.

As is, I was doing very little scraping.

 

Being my first time, not sure what I am to expect. You can see in the one pic of the box above, the scarifiers are flipped up, just pull a pin on both sides and slide them side to side and flip over.

 

My observations are...

1. The teeth are barely below the box. I maybe getting 1/2" max deep cutting with them.

2. Not enough teeth

3. Teeth attached to flat bar, it flexes in middle while digging, not getting any cutting into gravel.

4. Box little lopsided, one side picks up more than the other. I think I can correct by adjusting lift link.

5. I had long point facing front- is this right or shoud the be angle back?

 

So here are my solution thoughts, any suggestions might help.

 

1. Cutting another slot in my box sides so I can lower the teeth. I can go over repeatedly tearing up

    ground, then flip up and finish actually scraping/removal of material.

2. Add more teeth.

3. Add piece of angle along flat tooth bar, that would eliminate flex.

4. Add piece of anlge along top corner of box sides, I think they flex some side to side.

5. Replace large top box mount with a single heavier cross short arm, I don't add weight anyway

    which is why it's designed like that, I think.

 

 

So far, this was well worth the money I spent on it!!!! too bad my dad didn't know how to do this years ago.

So any modding advice or tell me proper technique would be appreciated!! :thank_you:






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