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#106 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2014 - 10:13 PM

I would go 3 under hood, 1 up front.  You can always change it later, but this way will get her under power quicker.

 

I agree with that.

 

Just make everything, so you can change it.

That's the joy of it all. You can do what you want/need, and than make it better, as you go.


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#107 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2014 - 10:42 PM

Doug, did you check on your tire clearances with one tire up all the way and the other down like you are going over a rock or coming out of a furrow? Just asking..

 

I'm still wanting to see if you can stack them, the batteries that is.


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#108 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2014 - 04:43 AM

If I use the small batteries I can stack them 1 above the other, they fit down low in the chassis.

The big batteries are too long to fit in between the frame rails or in between the front axle and the motor.

 

Unless I do some major modifications to the frame, stretch or widen it.


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#109 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2014 - 04:46 AM

Doug, did you check on your tire clearances with one tire up all the way and the other down like you are going over a rock or coming out of a furrow? Just asking..

 

I'm still wanting to see if you can stack them, the batteries that is.

 

With 3 batteries under the hood, wheels cranked all the way, 1 up the other down, like you say above, there is 1" clearance.

Raising the whole battery box 1" would give 2" tire clearance. 

I think were OK on that issue.


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#110 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2014 - 09:20 PM

Doug, I deal with several folks from around your area and I just want to give you Kudos for using the imperial system! ... well I guess you get some for this electric GT build too!  :thumbs:


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#111 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 08:31 PM

Now that the battery, motor locations are sorted out I can finish the drive shaft.

Disassembly has begun.

 


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#112 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 09:04 PM

Your seat is going to be made by Sept 1st. Did you want anything special

done to it? Like "ET3" embroidered in the backrest?



#113 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 09:06 PM

Your seat is going to be made by Sept 1st. Did you want anything special

done to it? Like "ET3" embroidered in the backrest?

 

No just like you said before is fine.


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#114 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 09:22 PM

Tonight when I got home I went to pull a part out of the Etank and realized that the charger leads were on backwards.

The part was covered in crap, I hooked the leads up the way there suppose to go and it bubbles like crazy.

Now I know why last night when I put it in, there wasn't very much bubbling action. :wallbanging:  


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#115 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2014 - 03:22 PM

Your seat is going to be made by Sept 1st. Did you want anything special
done to it? Like "ET3" embroidered in the backrest?

"Stella's Shagin Wagon" maybe?
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#116 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2014 - 09:12 PM

During disassembly I found more problems.

The steering block, don't know what you call the part but it holds the steering column, gears and mounts to the frame, the main part of the steering box, has broke at one time and being welded back together. Looks solid I hope it's OK. 

 

The main problem is the lift arm has being welded to the shaft, suppose to be a pin in there that holds them together, it's on there solid but he put it in the wrong spot. I can't get full travel, the lift goes all the way one way but not the other, the arm on the shaft that goes to the sleeve hitch hits the frame. I need this to work right so I can use the sleeve hitch.

It wouldn't be a problem if it was on in the right spot. Don't know how I'm going to get the lift handle off the shaft now. ???

 

I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

 

So I got to ask. What else I'm I gonna find?

If I ever find the guy that sold me this tractor, man, ??? :wallbanging:  :firejumper:  :bigrofl:  :bigrofl:  :bigrofl:  :big_hug:


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#117 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2014 - 09:27 PM

:oh_shucks:  :watch_over_fence:  :biting_nails:  :oh_shucks:


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#118 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2014 - 09:54 PM

Doug, by all accounts, it sounds like that piece is fubar (as we affectionately know it by here). Can you compensate for the incorrect placement with a small heat and bend session?

#119 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2014 - 01:18 PM

Pictures and Progress

 

This is the steering housing I was talking about.

002.JPG 003.JPG

 

The lift handle was not welded on like I though, it was held on the way it's suppose to be, 1 pin and a woodruff key. I guess I didn't look at it close enough.

Anyway the problem is still there, when I pull the handle back it goes all the way but when I push it forward it stops 3 notches before the end, the arm on the shaft that the handle moves hits the frame where the front of the trany mounts to. ??? 

Something is bent, wrong part, not made right, messed with,???

This is what I had to do to get the handle off the shaft, took over 1hr.

001.JPG

 

Tractor is down to a bare frame, and it's going in the etank today, only 1/2 will fit in so it will take 2 days.

004.JPG

 

The etank works really good at cleaning rust and the paint off the Bush Hog parts. Here's the hood fresh out of the etank and after washing it with the pressure washer.

005.JPG 006.JPG

 

Next step is cleaning, preparing all the parts for Paint, gonna take some time to get done.


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#120 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2014 - 04:23 PM

Two of my steering housings are broken.  One is holding, the other broke again, but it's on my rusty D4-10, so for now it's on a back burner as far as repairing.   What does it is the steering stop block, which is still missing on yours, your 2nd pic, just to the right of the steering shaft.  I'd guess they are ran into something with a front wheel, spinning the wheels hard that direction, then busting everything when it hits the stop.

  And yes, those lift handles are a BEASTY thing to remove!!!


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