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Winch Operated Blade Lift


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#1 Lance Skene OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2013 - 09:32 PM

Had some interest in this lift I built on my '75 Columbia 960 so heres some pics I took today hopefully giving a little better idea how it goes together. Most of it I think should be self explanatory but feel free to ask if you need something.

I cut the original long blade support arm that would normally be bolted under the rear of the tractor and welded it to a short piece of 1" ID pipe thats 1/4" steel, it pivots on a 1" OD solid steel rod that is welded to the side plates of the main mount. Every part is made with 1/4" plate or checker plate and I used a small piece of the orignal support arm C-channel in between the main mount and a crossmember under the frame.

The side plates are bolted to an original piece of C-channel on the front of the tractor that is there to center the blade in stock form, the side plates are joined together with a rear plate and I added a main support channel from it to the crossmember that I made and bolted to the tractor frame under the PTO. That puts any rearward force from the blade directly to the frame of the tractor and it allows the mount to remain on the tractor even if/when I have other attachments mounted to the tractor, being old and too lazy to swap attachments all the time this was my reasoning behind building the whole system.

With minor changes the design could be easily adapted to fit many GTs I expect, I know it will fit my Ford LGT tractors with just a new crossmember added to the frame of the tractor. I have some pretty cool toys at work to make the parts but really ne1 with a torch, welder and a few hand tools can build something very similar.

Tried and tested I use this rig to move snow around the farm, I have about 250yds of driveway plus parking areas to clear, have done some minor landscape leveling with it, pushed over and flattened a small pump shack from and old well, Ive used the winch to drag some fair sized trees out of rough areas in the yard. Because this allows the blade to lift quite high I can pile snow much higher than I could with the oem setup, and being heavily built means I can move snow fast, 4th gear full throttle is no problem, for a tractor without the hydro lift option this rig makes a few of my chores alot easier. If you can use idea feel free to do so and I'll gladly help if I can, or if you can improve on it I'd like to know about that also.

Attached Thumbnails

  • front center.JPG
  • front left.JPG
  • front90clearance.JPG
  • right rear1.JPG
  • right rear2.JPG
  • right side.JPG
  • side45clearance.JPG
  • side90clearance.JPG

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#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2013 - 10:04 PM

very well thought thru design, should last for several years of hard work. :thumbs:


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#3 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2013 - 10:59 PM

You did a nice job on that lift  :thumbs:

I'm expecting my winch to be here in the next couple of days to use on the snow blower lift. Hope it turns out as nice as yours. 


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#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 03:00 AM

Looks to be a vast improvement over OEM design. :thumbs:

Just wondering if you had considered running a removable support point back to the original hook points at the rear of the tractor so as not to change frame stresses from original design during extreme use? I know that on some of the GT's (depending on how and where) changing stresses can lead to some unforeseen results. Glad that's not the case here.

BTW, I've been looking at some of your threads... Nice to have some of that equip and cool toys is an understatement :D
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#5 Lance Skene OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 06:03 AM

Just wondering if you had considered running a removable support point back to the original hook points at the rear of the tractor so as not to change frame stresses from original design during extreme use? I know that on some of the GT's (depending on how and where) changing stresses can lead to some unforeseen results. Glad that's not the case here.


On the MTD 960 the original design has the main support channel going all the way to rear of the tractor and mounting to a single point at what I would consider a ball hitch mount with a single large bolt or the ball itself, thats works well enough but there was noticable wear to the mounting hole from many years of use, and it means removing the ball every time the blade is put on/off. With a crossmember under the tractor frame the stress is applied to both sides of the frame equally with four bolts about mid tractor, and should, in theory, be considerably stronger than oem and actually strengthen the tractor frame.

This rig should work fine with any tractor that actually has two main frame sections where a crossmember can be added, although in the case of a tube frame like on the Ford LGTs the crossmember should be welded to the frame tubes, or use a larger tube cut in half then welded back together around the frame tube. Thats to avoid drilling holes and running bolts thru the tube frame which would significantly weaken the tubes.

Im no engineer but Ive taken a few related courses and my years of experience gives me a pretty good insight to what may or maynot work when it comes to designing anything out of steel, so my 'guesses' are usually pretty good, and its in fact part of my job description these days, but I do like to have other people try to pick apart my ideas in case I overlook something or maybe somebody just has a better idea, and I certainly enjoy debating things on these forums, its how we learn right, I stop learning somebody needs to start diggin the hole;)
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#6 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 06:32 AM

Nice setup for the blade. Now I see how you did it. Thanks for the pics!


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#7 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 06:41 AM

Nice fab work. Thanks for sharing the pics.


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#8 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 07:38 AM

  A very good fab job!! One thing I've done for the winch on my wheeler when snowplowing is take all the cable off the drum, then attach a 3/4" wide nylon dog leash to the drum. I've cut the snap swivel off and attach it to the drum w/ a small self drilling sheet metal screw. Then use a small shackle to attach the loop end to the plow. No more chewed up cable or cable trying to climb the side of the drum.

                Mike


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#9 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 07:58 AM

Very nice build. I did almost the same design for my Sears, I love being able to lift blade high.

I also have a bucket I can swap off/on with mine.


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#10 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 08:05 AM

  A very good fab job!! One thing I've done for the winch on my wheeler when snowplowing is take all the cable off the drum, then attach a 3/4" wide nylon dog leash to the drum. I've cut the snap swivel off and attach it to the drum w/ a small self drilling sheet metal screw. Then use a small shackle to attach the loop end to the plow. No more chewed up cable or cable trying to climb the side of the drum.

                Mike

I suppose one of those tie-down ratchet straps would work ok for that too.  That would have a hook built in.

 

Lance, thanks for posting this, that looks like a very well thought out and executed design.


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#11 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 08:36 AM

  The good thing w/ the shackle is it can't come unhooked.

                                              Mike


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#12 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 11:23 AM

Very nice job & design. I like your choice of the diamond plate steel on the sides. Thanks for taking the time to explain & the pics.


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#13 Lance Skene OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 02:16 PM

Nylon straps do work very well for the blade it self but you cant get 50' of it on most small winches, if all your gonna do is lift a blade then the strap is a good way to go. I friend of mine has a blade on his truck and that winch came with 2" strap, thats very nice, if I was to change to strap thats what I would go with.

At first I had a cheap princess auto winch on the front and it did tangle quite abit but I swapped it out for a warn winch that I took off my quad before selling it and that has slightly thicker cable, haven't had a problem since. The princess auto winch is now on the back of the same tractor with about 3' of cable left and is used only for lifting the tiller.

...and I kicked that piece of 1/4 checker around in my shop for about two years before I figured out what to do with it...lol. Since I work metal fab I always have scrap around, the only thing I actually needed to purchase was the winch itself, and since that one is now on the other end of the tractor this whole rig cost me a grand total of $0.00
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#14 ol' stonebreaker OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 05:38 PM

  I have 6 ft of dog leash on mine since it only has to lift the plow maybe 6". When the snowplowing is over in the spring the leash comes off and the cable goes back.

                                                Mike


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#15 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 06:09 PM

That looks great and pretty stout! :thumbs:  You have great fab skills! Thanks for sharing.

 

 

 

 

Geno


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