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Mf8Executive Resto And Upgrade.


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#16 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 08:28 AM

Yesterday, I remembered, that I forgot to do something. So, prior to

painting the tunnel cover (last pc to paint) I set it on the frame, because

I had wanted to make up some extra mounting brackets for it. As it was originally,

it wasn't very well secured, hence it tended to get bent/broken and cracked.

 

That's when I noticed all the room ahead of the shifter, under the tunnel tin.

So, I got back to thinking about a hydraulic pump and reservoir, as there

would be enough room in there. I went hunting in the goody building

again, and found this nice little hydraulic pump. Direction of rotation looking at

the output shaft is clockwise. That makes it more challenging.

For now, I'm going to carry one putting it back together while I try to

figure out how to drive this pump.

However it's driven, I feel it needs to be clutched. Getting these Kohlers

rolling over fast enough with the starter/gen is hard enough, without

trying to turn over a cold hydraulic pump.

 

PC020475.JPG PC020476.JPG

 

 

 

 

Edit: The pump is a HC P100. I can't find anything about it on the WWW.

I was looking to see if it's reversible. That would make things sooooo much easier.


Edited by IamSherwood, December 03, 2013 - 08:35 AM.


#17 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 01:59 AM

I couldn't come up with any ideas on how to drive

this P100 pump, without putting in a jackshaft, and using

2 belts/4 pulleys. Too much stuff taking up what little room I have.

 

So I went back to the goodies building, and found I had one of these pumps.

splitter pump.JPG

 

More pump than needed, and bigger. As I was searching online to see

if it could run in reverse, I came across this one. Perfect. With the valve too.

Fenner Pump.JPG

http://www.surplusce...ALVE-9-9881.axd

 

It's on order. 2 weeks to get here across the border.

 

So, here is the game plan. Green lines=mounting plate for pump.

Red=I'll double up the pulley, and drive a 4" on the pump.

Purple=pump/valve. Blue=reservoir ahead of pump under frame.

Black=control handle/linkage to look sort of like original lift handle.

Red=cylinder (I have) fits nice along side frame.

 

pump layout.jpg

P1010048 (2).jpg


Edited by IamSherwood, December 04, 2013 - 02:24 AM.

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#18 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 02:29 AM

Nice. So let me get this straight. Double pulley on the transaxle to run a second belt forward to the pump? You do know that you will only have hydraulics when the clutch is engaged, right? So at the end of the furrow you must remember to lift before you clutch. Of course in neutral you could get your hydraulics too. Oh, is the tank full level going to be higher than the input on the pump for priming?

Edited by wvbuzzmaster, December 04, 2013 - 02:30 AM.

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#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 04:38 AM

Looks like a pretty well thought out idea Will, good questions too Casey.
The fact that you will only have hydraulics when the clutch is out is actually very much like the earlier tractors with hydraulics The TO20 and 30 ferguson tractors were that way, PTO and Hydraulics would only work with the clutch up. Wasnt until the TO 35 that live hydraulics and live power found a home.

It will take some getting used to to use and a lot more shifting in and out of Neutral when using it, but it sure beats not having any Hydraulics or pumping it by hand. Interesting work around for not being able to reverse the situation and run a belt off the motor.

Be fun to see this come together, good luck Will!
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#20 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 07:03 AM

Sounds good, Will.



#21 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 07:10 AM

Good point, on the fluid level, Cassey. Thanks.

I guess I'll wait on building the tank, until the pump gets

here. If I shift the pump back a bit, the tank should fit

ahead of it. It'll be tight. The battery sits on the frame ahead

of that cross member.

 

On the clutching, I'm Ok with it. For the amount of plowing I'll be doing, I

can take the time to flip it into neutral.


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#22 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 07:12 AM

All the hydraulic activity is on hold for now till I get all the parts

rounded up.

Yesterday, I installed the motor, throttle/choke cables, new voltage

regulator and solenoid. Also got all the wiring done, except the start

push button. Had to order a new one of those. Headlights will get

hooked up later too.

Today, I'll take a look at the exhaust, and gas tank. I want to move the

gas tank forward about an inch. As OE, it's too close to all the wiring

behind the dash. A bit of a short/fire hazard.

 

P7290127.JPG


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#23 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 07:24 AM

That does look tight in there. If you can't move it, maybe a sheet of rubber or some kind of plastic in there?
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#24 bread320i OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 07:28 AM

Are these Massey tractors built by Moto Mower?  

 

Looking at the frame and rearend, they are oh-so similar.

Here is my Porter-Cable which is the same as a Moto Mower

Porter-Cable


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#25 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 07:39 AM

Are these Massey tractors built by Moto Mower?  

 

Looking at the frame and rearend, they are oh-so similar.

Here is my Porter-Cable which is the same as a Moto Mower

Porter-Cable

 

Yes, Dura Corp built these and the Moto-Mowers. Same thing as

my MM 6024 except for the grill.

 

P1010119.JPG



#26 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 07:41 AM

That does look tight in there. If you can't move it, maybe a sheet of rubber or some kind of plastic in there?

 

I think I can shift it almost 1 1/2". That'll be comforting.


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#27 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 09:44 AM

Will, dont worry about it. On my larger Springfeilds and Toros the tank is so tight on the dash i cant gas it up without splashing gas on the wires which touch the tank 100 percent of the time lol.

Im planning to repower one and will be moving it's gas tank well away from the dash so I can add gauges.

#28 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2013 - 07:31 AM

Didn't get much done yesterday. Here's some pics of wiring, and

muffler. I think I'll brace it from the clamp, down to the engine where

the throttle cable is clamped.

 

PC060477.JPG PC060478.JPG

PC060479.JPG PC060480.JPG

PC060481.JPG PC060482.JPG


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#29 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2013 - 07:56 AM

Didn't get much done yesterday.

Oh good grief.... Yeah, slacker. :wtf: you got more done yesterday than I have in the last three weeks.
Folks, you have to remember, Will is so far north that the "days" up there are 5 or 6 of ours long during the winter... Or do I have that backwards? Which way do your toilets flush again???

I'm so confused, I need coffee...
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#30 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 07, 2013 - 08:16 AM

Folks, you have to remember, Will is so far north that the "days" up there are 5 or 6 of ours long during the winter... Or do I have that backwards? Which way do your toilets flush again???

 

 

You've got it right Alan, days are shorter, but they are also metric. They haven't come

up with a conversion table for that yet, so, we can't really compare.


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