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D640 (G6200H) Rebuild Kit?


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#16 blacksmith1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 09:31 AM

Since I can't find a compression fitting that resembles the glow plug, I'll buy a cheap NGK plug and modify it to be a compression adapter. 

 

I've inquired with a few internet vendors about the "proper" adapter and had several dubious responses; they didn't know, or stipulated ones that clearly would not fit, wrong size, wrong thread pitch. Perhaps there's just not that much call for a twenty five year old specialty tool. 



#17 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2013 - 09:52 AM

It is odd that that those fittings aren't more common. I took a small Kubota to a diesel shop and they couldn't come up with the right fitting either. 



#18 blacksmith1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 11:48 AM

This is an interesting URL from a parts scrounger perspective: 

 

http://shop.toadmari...e Model History

 

It is a cross between Kubota models, marine applications compared to non-marine. For instance The Model M3-20,was based on the Kubota D-640. 

 

This is the service manual for the M3-20 and it looks like the correct shop manual for most items on the D640. At first blush anyway. Obviously, there are modifications. 

 

http://shop.toadmari...uals/200155.pdf

 

It's a keeper. 


Edited by blacksmith1, December 05, 2013 - 12:05 PM.

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#19 blacksmith1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2014 - 01:16 PM

The first thing to do after you pull the head is to flip it over and check and see if the valves are closing all the way or if there is carbon under the valves. If you pour a little diesel fuel onto the valves it should set there for awhile and not just run away. The engine I just worked on had no compression and carbon was the problem. Starts and runs great now. 

Good luck.

 

I was hoping you were right. Pulled the head last night and the WD40 puddled up and just sat there. Sigh. 

 

More tear down this weekend. I wonder if I can just swap ends on the engine block - not remove it completely - just put the motor mounts in the opposite hole...



#20 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2014 - 01:49 PM

 

 I wonder if I can just swap ends on the engine block - not remove it completely - just put the motor mounts in the opposite hole...

 

I think I'm missing something here. Do you want to turn the engine around in the mounts? As I recall on the Kubota's that I've worked on the holes in the side of the block are symmetrical. I've not worked on the G6200 so I'm not sure how they are mounted.



#21 blacksmith1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2014 - 01:54 PM

Yeah, just skipping the support/mount jigging I would have to do to put it on the work bench. 



#22 blacksmith1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2014 - 01:57 PM

I neglected to mention the cylinder walls. Very smooth. 


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#23 blacksmith1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2014 - 04:01 PM

I had some time this week to tear into the engine. Still looking for the compression loss, and noticed that the timing marks on the gears do not match the slim documentation I have.  

 

When I rotate the crankshaft so that the marks on the idler, cam and injector align, the crank is always 180 out of phase. 

 

This picture shows compression TDC (not exhaust TDC) 

img-20140222-00026.jpg?w=584

 

and the marks align, except the crank, it is at the bottom, 180 out of sync. 

dots.jpg?w=584

 

What am I missing ?

 

The Compression of Exhaust TDC will never have the crank spline mark high, obviously. Should it? 



#24 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2014 - 10:15 PM

Never had one down this far so I can't help. Might be time to find a service manual. 



#25 blacksmith1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 06:08 PM

The  D640 manuals I have found leave a little to be desired. 

 

This is interesting, the D640, D600 and the D722 share the same crankshaft part number.  I found a superb manual for the D722. 

 

http://www.toro.com/...ubota-9Y111.pdf


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#26 blacksmith1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 06:46 PM

Ok the gear was installed backwards, the face was towards the engine block... Wondering if this was from the factory.

The dimple on the end of the crank is 180 out of phase, with the dimple in the gear aligning perfectly. Once I swapped ends on the gear everything fell into place. Looks like the crank dimple is for the drive hub.

The valves look good, in fact the seats and faces are still shiny.

Now I need the find the gaskets to start phased reassembly and testing. Since I can't find a leak, I'll search for compression compromises as I reassemble. I may gen up a one-cylinder mock head to do isolated tests. "Sweetly I need to buy that gunsmith lathe now".
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#27 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 10:20 PM

The only fault I have with owning a lathe is the fact that I didn't own one sooner. I'd be lost without it. A milling machine isn't a bad option either,  :smilewink:






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