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Diesel 'tuning' Question


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#16 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2013 - 07:54 PM

You might want to try running some injector cleaner in your fuel and see if that helps down the road. I have, had the same thing on this Kubota D950 and put some Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel and it seems to be running better all the time. 


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#17 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2013 - 10:40 PM

It could quite possibly your governor. When I started pulling with the diesel I left the stock spring in it but it never bounced off it or missed? If you watch a few of my videos from a year or 2 ago and listen to how it runs, does it sound like that?



#18 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2013 - 08:04 AM

You might want to try running some injector cleaner in your fuel and see if that helps down the road. I have, had the same thing on this Kubota D950 and put some Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel and it seems to be running better all the time. 

Chris, Do you suppose the Marvel's is helping make up for the lack of lubricity in the new low sulfur fuel?


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#19 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2013 - 08:28 AM

... the lack of lubricity in the new low sulfur fuel?

 
That's one thing that I was concerned about.
 
I did a lot of research, and settled on Opti-Lube XPD as an addative.

http://opti-lube.com...r-product.html#

 

From what I could find, it's the best on the market.

 

I'm using it for the lubricity, but it also is supposed to clean the injectors, boost the Cetane rating, and prevent gelling up to -20.

 

I use the 'cold weather rate' all year long.


Edited by OldBuzzard, December 16, 2013 - 08:28 AM.

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#20 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2013 - 10:42 AM

 

 

Chris, Do you suppose the Marvel's is helping make up for the lack of lubricity in the new low sulfur fuel?

That's highly possible. Even more so I would think if your running #1 diesel in the winter. I know it's going in all of my diesel now after the improvements I've seen in this one. I'm not a big supporter of miracles in a can but what the Marvel Mystery Oil has done for this engine just blows me away.  :thumbs:


Edited by Cvans, December 16, 2013 - 06:18 PM.

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#21 hammerdwn20 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 25, 2013 - 09:41 PM

Had the exact same problem with one of my diesels. All i had to do was adjust the valves and it ran smoother with more power.  Before you spend any money on anything i would start there


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#22 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 09:09 PM

Guys, I ran into something over at the WPGTA Plow day when I was pulling.

 

It was the first time I really ran the Mitsubishi K3D hard, and at near full throttle, it had a bit of a miss(?). When that would happen, I would back off the throttle a bit until it quit, but I would like to figure out just what is causing that to happen and a 'cure' for it.

 

This was at about 3,000 RPM on the tach.  In the manual, it says that it's rated for 22 Hp. @ 3200 RPM.

 

So, the question is, what might be the cause?

 

The Tach is a mechanical tach, so I guess it could be wrong and maybe I was over revving?

 

Maybe not enough fuel flow?  Dirty injectors? Weak fuel pump? Something else?

 

I could use any leads you guys might be able to provide.

I'm a late comer to this post, but I noticed you mentioned using a Mitsubishi K3D engine in one of your tractors?  Which one is it?  Did you repower one of your Bolens LFs with it?

 

I have a chance to buy a complete Mitsu L3E--engine, starter, radiator, alternator, etc. for a good price.  I'm thinking of using it to repower my HT23, but am concerned that it's too long for the tractor without lengthening the frame, which I don't want to do.

 

Thanks,

 

Smitty


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#23 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 06, 2014 - 09:19 PM

Watch for valve float at top end.

Fuel is not the same anymore, adjusting the valves seemed to help, did that to my diesel.


Edited by trowel, January 06, 2014 - 09:19 PM.

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#24 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 03:39 AM

I'm a late comer to this post, but I noticed you mentioned using a Mitsubishi K3D engine in one of your tractors?  Which one is it?  Did you repower one of your Bolens LFs with it?

 

I have a chance to buy a complete Mitsu L3E--engine, starter, radiator, alternator, etc. for a good price.  I'm thinking of using it to repower my HT23, but am concerned that it's too long for the tractor without lengthening the frame, which I don't want to do.

 

Thanks,

 

Smitty

 

The K3D is in the Bolens HDT1000. Like the HT20D, it's a "Factory re-powered" HT23.

 

Bolens DID need some extra length to fit in the engine and radiator, but they did not lengthen the frame to do so.

 

They used an 11 GA plate that they just bolted to the frame.  It extents forward, and helps support the battery and fuel tank.

 

They did, of course, have to lengthen the hood, but that was a lot easier than making a new frame.

 

Here's a pic of the plate:

 

100_4777.JPG

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#25 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 06:07 AM

The K3D is in the Bolens HDT1000. Like the HT20D, it's a "Factory re-powered" HT23.
 
Bolens DID need some extra length to fit in the engine and radiator, but they did not lengthen the frame to do so.
 
They used an 11 GA plate that they just bolted to the frame.  It extents forward, and helps support the battery and fuel tank.
 
They did, of course, have to lengthen the hood, but that was a lot easier than making a new frame.
 
Here's a pic of the plate:


Oh OK, I see how they did it I thought of doing something similar, but I couldn't figure out how to hook up the PTO to the engine. How much extra length is involved? It may get in the way of my loader as well.

Thanks,

Smitty

#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 07:12 AM

Watch for valve float at top end.

Fuel is not the same anymore, adjusting the valves seemed to help, did that to my diesel.

I need to do that on the K3D in the Toro this spring. When I bought it, I planned to make a diesel GT. Then I found out everything worked, just had leaked all the fluid out. Fixed it up and am mowing with it.


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#27 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 08:01 AM

That's highly possible. Even more so I would think if your running #1 diesel in the winter. I know it's going in all of my diesel now after the improvements I've seen in this one. I'm not a big supporter of miracles in a can but what the Marvel Mystery Oil has done for this engine just blows me away.  :thumbs:

I've had good luck with MMO. I also use it in a homebrew solvent/lube--mixed with kerosene, mineral spirits, and Rislone.

I have found that Seafoam has been a miracle in a can for my gas engined tractors--I did the treatment of pouring it down the carb till theengine stopped--let it sit for an hour then start up again...it creates a lot of dense white smoke, so choose when and where you do this. I also use it in the fuel.tank

Seafoam was originally developed to preserve diesel fuel in landing craft for WWII so it can be added to diesel fuel as well. It may help with low-sulfur fuel. (I'm sure you're aware of that--I posted it for others who may not be).

Smitty
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#28 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 08:56 AM

Kenny, guys,..

I set my diesel up for working load at 1800 rpm to 2000 rpm, the factory spec called for 08 exhaust/intake, opened them to 10 each with the feeler gauge. The compresstion ratio is 20 to 1 unlike my Yanmar which is 20.5 to 1. It burns a little dirty until warm but it helped with cold weather starts and low end power with a stiffer gov. spring.

With the ultra-low-junk diesel from the pumps it helped to touch each tank full with nonsynthetic tranny fluid. The house fuel is already cut with off-road diesel for the winter but with the wider valve lash it breaths deeper and burns way better way better but i always keep it under working load. As for the 3600 rpm Yanmar i kept the valves at a 07 exhaust/intake, at 04 pinging and misses occured at top end (3400/3600 rpm) with some loss of top end power, with the higher comp. ratio, smaller bore and running at the 2500 to 3600 rpm it tended to favor the tighter valve lash.

The Fiat 66 hp 4 banger (Hesston) valves were reset from 11 to 09 Exhaust/intake back to a happy 10, working speed from 2000 rpm to 2800 rpm max for the house fuel mix. same as the Lister Petter it is a cold start smoker and is kept under load but the lower comp. ratio made it more tolerant of the different fuel grades/mixes from the house heat mix and pump ultra-low-junk.

I felt like it was happy at 10 for each cylinder with little to no pinging at at working speed, valve chatter was reduced with the introduction of nonsynthetic tranny fluid for pump, injector and upper cylinder lubrication with blueish smoke when left at idle for a while.

If you want to talk old school Detroit 6/71 2-smoker they tend to like the very wide valve lash (forget the happy spot spec) but smoke profusely while you have to wait depending on how cold it is for no. 2 and no. 4 cylinders to pop-off and burn ''clean'', much like the Fiat 4 banger it is a smoker that is kept loaded at all times due to the lower comp when compared with the higher and different comp ratio of say the newer Komatsu 120 and 300.

In my opinion in the end it depends on the grade of fuel and the engine itself when it comes to fine tuning a diesel with the valves.

This is just a touch, then you have the injectors spray pattern, injector pressure, exhaust back pressure and intake to account for as per to the comp ratio, angle of injector to the type of cumbustion chamber (hemispherical or ?) and if it is direct or indirect injected.

Ok, fingers getting sore, leaving off here, hope this helps a little.

Not a expert at this at all, still learning, just some opinion/experience :deadhorse:  with small air-cooled diesels and large water cooled diesels.


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#29 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 05:58 PM

Oh OK, I see how they did it I thought of doing something similar, but I couldn't figure out how to hook up the PTO to the engine. How much extra length is involved? It may get in the way of my loader as well.

Thanks,

Smitty

So, how does your PTO hook up to the MItsi diesel?  And, do you know about how much longer they had to extend the hoodl

 

I'm prepared to do something like this on my HT23--the hood is damaged and I'll just repair it and lengthen it at the same time.  I do need the front PTO, however as my FEL pump runs off it.

 

Would you be willing to take some pics of the front of the engine and how the PTO drive is set up?  hmmm Pretty Please???!!!

 

Thanks,

 

Smitty


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#30 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted January 07, 2014 - 05:59 PM


Not a expert at this at all, still learning, just some opinion/experience :deadhorse:  with small air-cooled diesels and large water cooled diesels.

A lot of good info there.  I have a bachelor's degree with a minor in Diesel Technology, but I don't have the depth of experience that comes from actually dealing with the engines on a regular basis.

 

Smitty


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