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My 1053 Is In Need Of Heart Surgery

fmc bolens 1053 wisconsin motor tra-10d tra-10d

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#1 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2013 - 12:58 PM

Hello all,

 

As I mentioned in the introduction of my 1053 it stopped working a few weeks ago. I finally got to open up the motor and it's not pretty. I could use some guidance to finding what I need to fix er up.

 

Crankshaft is scored bad. Connecting rod is shattered. The cause? Lost oil. Why? Brass nipple coming out the drain hole on the block cracked. That explains why I saw the cloud of smoke from the bottom of the block.

 

Here;s a few pics.

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Misc Pics from cam 008.jpg
  • 21-11-13_161843.jpg
  • 21-11-13_162033.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 001.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 002.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 003.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 004.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 005.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 006.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 007.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 013.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 010.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 011.jpg
  • Misc Pics from cam 012.jpg

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#2 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2013 - 01:11 PM

That sucks. You could repower it.
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#3 Nato77 ONLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2013 - 01:53 PM

Thats not good!    Pull the piston out and see how bad the cyl. wall is scared up. If not to bad you could get a crank and rod. But if were me I'd look for a different engine


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#4 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2013 - 05:29 PM

With the Rod and Crank being the most expensive parts to replace, I'd look for another TRA-10D engine thats already running or just in need of a partial Rebuild where you just need to do the valves and rings.

 

There's plenty of them around, and you would be keeping the tractor original by having the same model engine.


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#5 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2013 - 08:19 PM

I do have a NOS connecting rod.  No luck on a crank, though.

 

I think Joe's Outdoor Power just parted out a TRA10D, too.

 

Ben W.


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#6 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2013 - 06:59 AM

Thats not good!    Pull the piston out and see how bad the cyl. wall is scared up. If not to bad you could get a crank and rod. But if were me I'd look for a different engine

 

When I first opened it the first thing was I pushed down on the piston and it traveled easily to the bottom, exposing the cylinder. There is no wear, scratches, dings, etc ... The piece of the connecting rod that is pinned to the piston moves freely so there is hope that the piston and cylinder are ok.

I'll know more later today.



#7 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2013 - 10:08 AM

I can't tell from your pics if the crank is scored, or if that is just built-up aluminum from the connecting rod.

 

If that is aluminum deposits, they can be removed using muriatic acid (home Depot , Lowes, etc), or emery cloth.  ...Be careful not to remove iron from the crankshaft journal, or create a rough surface.  ....When the aluminum is removed, polish the journal with fine scotchbrite.

 

If need be, a crankshaft can be "built-up" by welding on the journal and then grinding a new surface.  .....This is not an inexpensive repair, and is usually only done when a replacement crankshaft can not be found, or if a replacement is too costly.


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#8 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 01:47 AM

I can't tell from your pics if the crank is scored, or if that is just built-up aluminum from the connecting rod.

 

If that is aluminum deposits, they can be removed using muriatic acid (home Depot , Lowes, etc), or emery cloth.  ...Be careful not to remove iron from the crankshaft journal, or create a rough surface.  ....When the aluminum is removed, polish the journal with fine scotchbrite.

 

If need be, a crankshaft can be "built-up" by welding on the journal and then grinding a new surface.  .....This is not an inexpensive repair, and is usually only done when a replacement crankshaft can not be found, or if a replacement is too costly.

I'll try this and see what I'm dealing with. Thanks for the advice.



#9 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 01:52 AM

Maybe this other batch of pics can help. Got the crank out of the casing.

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 010.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 001.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 002.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 003.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 004.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 005.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 006.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 007.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 008.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 009.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 013.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 011.jpg
  • Crankshaft and connecting rod 012.jpg


#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 02:34 AM

Try taking pics from farther away. I think your camera won't do closeups!


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#11 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 07:21 AM

Hard to tell from the pics if its saveable.

Like Bruce mentioned in his previous post if the aluminum is just built up on the crank that can be polished out.


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#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 07:53 AM

From what I can make out, that crank looks beat up.


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#13 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 08:03 PM

Yeah, the camera looks to be like one of mine, no macro.
Get about two or three feet back and the pic will be much better.
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