Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Fixing Up Old Blue 120


  • Please log in to reply
152 replies to this topic

#91 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

OldBlue120
  • Member
  • Member No: 50196
  • 87 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Nobleboro, Maine

Posted December 16, 2013 - 09:49 PM

It sounds like you may be hooking the battery up backwards. Are you connecting the negative (-) terminal to ground? That's the battery cable that goes straight to the engine block. The positive terminal goes to the starter solenoid.

Garden tractor batteries come either negative terminal to the left or right. There is no difference in the terminals like there is in car batteries.

Joe
.

 

Right. Black negative ( - ) terminal is to the ground bolted right to frame directly in front of the battery on the Ford 120.  Positive ( + ) red cable up into the tractor wiring, etc. It is connected correctly.  Thank you for the help.


  • Rock farmer said thank you

#92 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

Walkinman1
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 34918
  • 713 Thanks
  • 552 posts
  • Location: Lombard, IL

Posted December 17, 2013 - 08:03 AM

I'd say start with testing the starter generator and work towards the battery from there, there's some videos on YouTube about how to do it. Make sure it's putting out the required voltage and follow the positive lead(s) all the way to the battery testing along the way to find where the current gets interrupted...

#93 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,413 Thanks
  • 39,663 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 17, 2013 - 08:39 AM

I put this in the other thread, thought I would add it here.

Attached File  1R-116Reg.pdf   1.76MB   63 downloads

  • OldBlue120 said thank you

#94 Walkinman1 OFFLINE  

Walkinman1
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 34918
  • 713 Thanks
  • 552 posts
  • Location: Lombard, IL

Posted December 17, 2013 - 08:41 AM

I hope you can keep em straight Kenny cuz I think I'm starting to get confused on which thread is which lol
  • OldBlue120 said thank you

#95 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,413 Thanks
  • 39,663 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 17, 2013 - 09:16 AM

I hope you can keep em straight Kenny cuz I think I'm starting to get confused on which thread is which lol

Me too!


  • OldBlue120 said thank you

#96 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

OldBlue120
  • Member
  • Member No: 50196
  • 87 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Nobleboro, Maine

Posted December 17, 2013 - 11:14 AM

I wasn't sure how this GT Forum worked if I was supposed to start a new topic or just keep this one going on forever.  I guess the issue at hand is part of fixing up old blue so I guess I'll just let the issue specific topic on the dead battery die and keep it going here.  

Thank you for all the insights however. I need it!



#97 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

OldBlue120
  • Member
  • Member No: 50196
  • 87 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Nobleboro, Maine

Posted December 17, 2013 - 11:47 AM

I put this in the other thread, thought I would add it here.

 

Excellent information here.



#98 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,413 Thanks
  • 39,663 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 17, 2013 - 12:03 PM

You can open as many as you like. But, it makes it easier to work an issue in just one thread.

I had about forgotten about that regulator info. It should help you troubleshoot what's going on.


  • OldBlue120 said thank you

#99 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

OldBlue120
  • Member
  • Member No: 50196
  • 87 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Nobleboro, Maine

Posted December 17, 2013 - 05:20 PM

Well I was testing and checking away and got to the S/G and one of the wires just snapped off it when I went to check it. I am guessing the connection wasn't so good.

So I replaced the wire connection and screwed it back on and now things seem to be working a little smoother.

001.JPG

 

We are getting positive reading on the ammeter. both while idling and with lights and PTO on.

The battery reads about 12 off and about 13.9 or so while on. So I guess that is good.

 

I hope we are race ready.  Let it snow.

 


  • Oldford said thank you

#100 Bmerf ONLINE  

Bmerf

    Patina Farmer / Rust Collector

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 9846
  • 1,708 Thanks
  • 1,445 posts
  • Location: benton harbor, mi

Posted December 17, 2013 - 06:55 PM

I wasn't sure how this GT Forum worked if I was supposed to start a new topic or just keep this one going on forever.  I guess the issue at hand is part of fixing up old blue so I guess I'll just let the issue specific topic on the dead battery die and keep it going here.  

Thank you for all the insights however. I need it!

I just found this thread. Love the sentiment attached to this tractor.

As for my .02$ I think you should keep this tread going on the resurrection of "old blue" and ask specific questions in a new tread. That way if someone in the future has the same question it will be much easier to search for the solution. You can always add a link to the other treads.

Glad you got the charging issue solved.  :dancingbanana:  Great job so far! Part of the joy of this hobby is the reward earned when things turn out. :thumbs:


  • KennyP, OldBlue120 and Oldford have said thanks

#101 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

OldBlue120
  • Member
  • Member No: 50196
  • 87 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Nobleboro, Maine

Posted December 18, 2013 - 01:55 PM

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=P7aGYXLiSVE

 

Well that was fun!

 

HOWEVER:  When it was all said and done the battery was dead as a doornail again.   I am totally perplexed now.

Yesterday I fixed the corroded wire on the S/G and bang the ammeter goes way over into the positive where it should be. I let it run for 5-10 minutes and it stayed there.

 

Today I went out and it started right up and was on a negative chage the whole time running and barreled through 14 inches of snow anyway but when I was done so was the tractor. Battery is dead!

 

Back to testing I guess.


  • MH81 said thank you

#102 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

OldBlue120
  • Member
  • Member No: 50196
  • 87 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Nobleboro, Maine

Posted December 18, 2013 - 05:36 PM

I wonder if there is some kind of intermittent thing going on here. The battery was dead as a door nail this am after I was done snow blowing. Turn the key and nothing. I thought it was the battery.

This afternoon I go to crank it over and it just clicked, wouldn't start. I took the battery off it and tested it. 11.49 and then set it on the charger and the charger said it was fully charged. 

So what is it?  If it were fully charged then why won't it start the tractor?  I reconnected the battery and it wouldn't start.

 

I guess I need to get a little more skilled on how I am going to test the S/G and the Voltage Regulator.  Apparently its not the battery.

 

Why does it start like this AM with a fully charged battery with out a second hesitation.



#103 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted December 18, 2013 - 09:40 PM

Sound like something is shaking loose, vibration can cause all kinds of wiring issues.

Clean and tight connections are critical.

Loose connections can heat up and cause arcing, which, in turn, can burn out a connector.

#104 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

OldBlue120
  • Member
  • Member No: 50196
  • 87 Thanks
  • 83 posts
  • Location: Nobleboro, Maine

Posted December 27, 2013 - 04:58 PM

Well the quest Continues.

 

I started off with a full charged battery that read 12.71 sitting on the bench in my shop.

Connected it to the Tractor and it read 12.40, Ammeter on tractor went to -5 and then turned on the tractor and at a fast idle it read 12.20.

And the Ammeter read about -3.  When I turned the headlights on BAM it jumped to -10 instantly. That was a big drain.

I engaged the PTO and that sacked the ammeter even more.

 

I tried to get some reading of the voltage regulator and the S/G and that didn't seem to produce any intelligent information as I can tell.  So here are some videos of the process and reading and please tell me if I am doing anything wrong. Because I could be doing everything wrong and think I am right.

Voltmeter connected to negative terminal on battery and forward terminal of S/G

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=fnxdz5OnvWE

 

Then Voltmeter connected to Rear terminal of S/G

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=0RJxHbfovNA

 

Then Voltmeter connected to the bottom terminal of the Voltage Regulator.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=iZhQksrkVsk

 

None of these reading seem at all on par with a correct or accurate reading.

Plus they were jumping all over the place.

 

Can these voltage Regulators and S/G be purchased new anywhere?  I am about done with all the guesswork here. I'm about ready to just replace everything until it works.



#105 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,269 Thanks
  • 28,606 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted December 27, 2013 - 06:49 PM

I'm thinking three things.
1) the regulator ground is intermittent or nonexistent,
2) the contacts in the regulator need filed and cleaned
3) the generator may need flashed. This is a process that polarizes the generator. I can't tell you how, maybe one of the more learned guys here can help.

As for a new regulator, there are units out there. Contact the site supporters, one of them should be able to point you in the right direction.
  • OldBlue120 said thank you




Top