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Fixing Up Old Blue 120


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#31 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 09:11 PM

Ok now I am going to show off how truly brilliant I am.  I have attached a picture of the fuel pump which I had in my small brain the idea that it was the carburetor. LOL.  Ok so since the tractor started up today with basically no issue and purred like a kitten for about 20 minutes idling and just giving me a big old smile, and I am pretty sure my Dad was smiling down from up above as well, Given that I am guessing it all went together correctly.

Now that I have actually figured out what the carburetor is and what the fuel pump is the fact remains I cleaned out the fuel pump and DID NOT clean out the carburetor. I did replace the air filter, not that that matters much to the cleanliness of carburetor as it is right now. I presume I should probably clean out the carburetor here just for the sake of having it clean.

 

NOW ISSUE #2.

 

Its been like 17 all day, it hasn't started in a year, etc. It is starting kind of hard. Like the battery just isn't enough.

I hooked the car battery onto the battery with cables and she had plenty of power then.

 

Now and then I go to start it and it just clicks, kind of a static'y click and it won't even turn over. I push in and out the clutch and crank up and down the throttle sometimes it turns over over times dead, other times, it just clicks.

Loose connection somewhere?

005.JPG

I guess the "spindle" I was referring to is the "fuel pump lever" that rides on the cam? 


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#32 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 09:22 PM

The sound isn't very good just she drove around pretty smooth.


https://www.youtube....h?v=hHiHBPUXU0Q



You can also follow all the restoration progress on my blog: http://oldblueford120.wordpress.com/

I am having a time of my life.
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#33 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 09:33 PM

Also the lights don't work. I haven't even taken the things apart though to replace the bulbs so I have some work to do on that. I am thinking just based on looking at all the wiring, I think all new wiring from one end of this thing to the other wouldn't hurt. I don't know if I will tackle that one in cold weather however.

I also bought a grease gun today and will be happily greasing up the old girl tomorrow.



#34 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 10:11 PM

Well have you ever heard anything as smooth sounding as that?

https://www.youtube....h?v=DxFmqEmfVWI

Sweet!


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#35 Oldford OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2013 - 04:17 AM

Nice video it sounds good.  I learned a couple things with my 68 Ford 120 first being, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, second being, keep it simple, if your machine has lasted this long it kind of knows what it needs hard to explain but i have seen guys tear them all apart and never get them going again when all it needed was something simple or just learning the machine not saying that about you just saying.  Sounds like you have a good handle on it already.

 

You are right it is cold out, bending those old wires can break otherwise serviceable insulation, once you start tearing into the wires you may be in for a rubik's cube it is a tight fit in there with the wiring.  My wiring is all original never been messed with and everything works fine.  To check your headlights i would start with a voltmeter at the light sockets and go backwards from there to see how far the current is making it.  One thing that goes bad on these is the ignition switch you can check those posts or maybe it is the light switch itself a voltmeter will tell you where the current stops.  My headlights still good after 45 years yours may be too can always put a jumper wire right to the lights to check if the bulbs work.

 

As for the carburetor mine was popping a simple bowl cleanout got it 100%.  Don't need to pull the carb off keep it simple.  Unscrew the plug under the bowl, clean out the bowl, shoot some solvent & air up in the carb you can bend the little red plastic tube on the carb cleaner can, stick it up in the center jet and the air gun too.  Be careful putting the bowl back on the little cork ring slides around and tighten just enough so it won't leak or come loose while running don't deform the soft bowl.

 

Also found i need to turn off the gas at the tank if the motor stops for more than 5 minutes or it floods and is a bear to start esp. cold.  Turn off the fuel it starts great every time.

 

Not sure about the clicking, if your starter seems weak it may be the battery or could just be the belt slipping, an old belt slips more when it is cold, you can see the pulley spinning more than the belt.  I tightened my belt up by moving the starter that helps.  Sometimes i have to hold the key and spin the flywheel by hand to get it rolling careful don't get your fingers caught in the belt guard when it starts cranking.


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#36 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2013 - 07:35 AM

Isn't that a wonderful sound?

Very glad to hear you got it running and yes, I'm sure your Dad and Grandpa are smiling almost as big as you were.
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#37 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 09:02 PM

004.JPG
This is the snow plow attachment. I am trying to think why a snow plow and a snow blower were purchased for these. I would have figured one or the other, but both? I may need to get a little swifter and more efficient at pulling these attachments on and off, but I am guessing I am going to stick with the snow blower for the time being. I am curious to know the difference between the two stage and the single stage snow blowers. I am not sure how much I will be using this plow.


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#38 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 09:04 PM

Nice video it sounds good.  I learned a couple things with my 68 Ford 120 first being, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, second being, keep it simple, if your machine has lasted this long it kind of knows what it needs hard to explain but i have seen guys tear them all apart and never get them going again when all it needed was something simple or just learning the machine not saying that about you just saying.  Sounds like you have a good handle on it already.

 

You are right it is cold out, bending those old wires can break otherwise serviceable insulation, once you start tearing into the wires you may be in for a rubik's cube it is a tight fit in there with the wiring.  My wiring is all original never been messed with and everything works fine.  To check your headlights i would start with a voltmeter at the light sockets and go backwards from there to see how far the current is making it.  One thing that goes bad on these is the ignition switch you can check those posts or maybe it is the light switch itself a voltmeter will tell you where the current stops.  My headlights still good after 45 years yours may be too can always put a jumper wire right to the lights to check if the bulbs work.

 

As for the carburetor mine was popping a simple bowl cleanout got it 100%.  Don't need to pull the carb off keep it simple.  Unscrew the plug under the bowl, clean out the bowl, shoot some solvent & air up in the carb you can bend the little red plastic tube on the carb cleaner can, stick it up in the center jet and the air gun too.  Be careful putting the bowl back on the little cork ring slides around and tighten just enough so it won't leak or come loose while running don't deform the soft bowl.

 

Also found i need to turn off the gas at the tank if the motor stops for more than 5 minutes or it floods and is a bear to start esp. cold.  Turn off the fuel it starts great every time.

 

Not sure about the clicking, if your starter seems weak it may be the battery or could just be the belt slipping, an old belt slips more when it is cold, you can see the pulley spinning more than the belt.  I tightened my belt up by moving the starter that helps.  Sometimes i have to hold the key and spin the flywheel by hand to get it rolling careful don't get your fingers caught in the belt guard when it starts cranking.

Good info here, Thanks!


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#39 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 09:16 PM

attachicon.gif004.JPG
This is the snow plow attachment. I am trying to think why a snow plow and a snow blower were purchased for these. I would have figured one or the other, but both? I may need to get a little swifter and more efficient at pulling these attachments on and off, but I am guessing I am going to stick with the snow blower for the time being. I am curious to know the difference between the two stage and the single stage snow blowers. I am not sure how much I will be using this plow.


These blades aren't just for snow. They work great for snow, dirt, gravel... Anything you can push.
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#40 Oldford OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 09:28 PM

Your dozer blade looks in good shape and complete nice to be able to change the angle from the seat.  Jake had a lighter snow blade that hooked to the front blower mount yours is the heavy duty dozer blade with trip springs.  If you ever want to sell the blade shoot me a note i'm right up the road.

 

Two stage blower has an impeller throws the snow farther at slower ground speed there's a video on youtube of a ford 120 using one.  Downside it's heavier to lift and more moving parts than the single. 



#41 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 07:48 AM

Well the brand new battery I bought for the tractor 2 weeks ago is dead as a door nail.  Initially it wouldn't even turn over the motor. I had to hook up the jumper cables to my car to get it to start but I figured it was because it had been a year, cold, new gas to come through, etc.

Then it grunted and clicked but didn't start. Now it is completely dead.  I don't even own a voltage tester or battery charger, (yet)  When I hook the battery up to jumper cables to my car it turns over and starts right up immediately and runs smoothly and idles smoothly.

Something is not right with the battery I guess. It is a lawn garden battery. The right size as I can tell. Is there something that would be causing the battery to drain off?



#42 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 07:55 AM

Sounds like you do have either a drain or a bad battery.
If the battery is suspect, try the local auto store. Most will have a battery tester and will check it for free or modest fee.

Last time we went camping and I needed to charge the batteries for the lights in the camper, I let the car idle for a half hour or so with the battery on the jumper cables. (Do it outside and safe in case there is a problem with the battery)

If you get it to charge, let it sit for a couple of days and test it. Those cheapy volt meters are really easy to use and for 5-20 bucks they are worth it for having an answer instead of guessing. They can't do a load test on the battery like the auto store, but they can tell if its discharging sitting on the bench.
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#43 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 08:15 AM

Sounds like you do have either a drain or a bad battery.
If the battery is suspect, try the local auto store. Most will have a battery tester and will check it for free or modest fee.

Last time we went camping and I needed to charge the batteries for the lights in the camper, I let the car idle for a half hour or so with the battery on the jumper cables. (Do it outside and safe in case there is a problem with the battery)

If you get it to charge, let it sit for a couple of days and test it. Those cheapy volt meters are really easy to use and for 5-20 bucks they are worth it for having an answer instead of guessing. They can't do a load test on the battery like the auto store, but they can tell if its discharging sitting on the bench.

 

And if it is a drain? How would you figure out where that is coming from?



#44 OldBlue120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 05:18 PM

Well I took the battery back where I bought it and it was 100% dead. They tested it and it came back as having a bad core so they replaced it and I actually bought one with 350 cold crank amps so I hooked that one up and bam it fired right up in a snap.  So I guess we had a bad battery.

Now I am messing around with the lights trying to get them to work and I don't think I have a correct understanding on how to use tis volt meter or else there is NOTHING coming through for power to these bulbs front or rear. I am just going to replace the bulbs anyway because I want new ones in there now and that will rule out one possible problem. I checked the ground on the switch and that seemed loose and kind of rusted so I cleaned that up and then went to try all of this again and someone stole my tractor key while I was in the house. Of course we live in a rural area with nobody around and they would have about 1 minute to run from hiding somewhere and steal the key and then run away....Or the chickens took it as they scattered unhappily when I fired it up.  I DON'T KNOW WHAT HAPPENED TO THE DAMN KEY!

Can you order keys somewhere?  I would like a 1972 Ford 120 FOB with a remote starter.

I searched everywhere around that tractor in case it fell out or who knows what I don't remember taking it out of the ignition. I must be going crazy. 

Is there anywhere you can buy the original tires to these tractors with the original tread? My front tire has a slow leak. It goes down in 3 weeks. I would like to just buy two new front tires.

Well this has been an interesting day.

 

You can also follow the restoration history on my blog: http://oldblueford120.wordpress.com/



#45 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2013 - 08:13 PM

I can see the chicken "hatching" the plan to steal the key. :smilewink:

As to where to get one, we will have to talk to a Ford guy to find that out.

Just so you don't feel alone in the loosing things dept.
http://gardentractor...olt/#entry95344
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