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Jd316 Onan Engine Issues


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#1 krogers6255 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 12:11 PM

I'm having a couple of issues with a JD316.  This was my father's and it's been sitting since he passed away (3 years now).  The last time it ran there was a tremendous oil leak out the right side.  After a power wash I discovered the problem, leaking oil pressure sending unit.  Replaced it and no leaks, problem solved.  Nope, just beginning. I tried to start it but no fire.  Appeared to be coil related,replaced coil. Might as well r/p points, condensor, and plug wires. Now were cooking!.  Got fire, started! Well didn't run as well as I had hoped. Suspected carb issues. Took the top of the carb off. Cleaned all jets and metering orifices. Now it runs pretty good at idle with choke open.  When increasing throttle it dies. It will run at fast speed with the choke about 3/4 closed. I'm thinking maybe the high speed jet is not quite clean yet. Any suggestion? The replacement of the carb would be a dog of a job to do since it's mounted from the bottom and through the intake manifold. That's one issue, now for the next;

When I had it running, even at fast speed the charging indicator came on. Check voltage at the battery and regulator, not charging.  With the alternator being somewhat open on this tractor is it possible that it needs a good cleaning? Keeping in mind that this tractor has sat for 3 years.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Almost forgot:

Model : M00316X316653

Engine: B43E-GA016/4232B


Edited by krogers6255, November 19, 2013 - 02:52 PM.

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#2 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 12:29 PM

Hello and welcome! :wave: You might need a new carb at this point if you have to run the choke on with it. And if its not holding a charge it sounds like either your alternator isn't working properly (maybe a faulty wire) or its completely dead. Hopefully someone will be here shortly to help you. In the mean time don't forget to post a few pictures of it :thumbs:


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#3 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 12:59 PM

Sounds like it is lean. Have you checked for air leaks on the base of carb and the intake manifold?
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#4 jd.rasentrac ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 01:07 PM

Hi kroger, welcome to gtt

 

when you google, you'll find some helpful documents for the onan - but I think, you tried this.


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#5 JRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 05:17 PM

I would check the vent hole in the fuel tank cap making sue it is clear.

 

 

Dick


Edited by JRJ, November 19, 2013 - 05:17 PM.


#6 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 05:30 PM

Sounds like it is lean. Have you checked for air leaks on the base of carb and the intake manifold?

 

I posted from my smart phone so I did not get the full response.  I would suggest spraying some carb cleaner around the base of the carb and where the intake meets the block.  If there is a leak (vacuum will pull the cleaner into the engine) the engine will rev up.  Intake leaks are a common problem on the Onan engines (in my reading).


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#7 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted November 25, 2013 - 07:34 AM

I'm having a couple of issues with a JD316.  This was my father's and it's been sitting since he passed away (3 years now).  The last time it ran there was a tremendous oil leak out the right side.  After a power wash I discovered the problem, leaking oil pressure sending unit.  Replaced it and no leaks, problem solved.  Nope, just beginning. I tried to start it but no fire.  Appeared to be coil related,replaced coil. Might as well r/p points, condensor, and plug wires. Now were cooking!.  Got fire, started! Well didn't run as well as I had hoped. Suspected carb issues. Took the top of the carb off. Cleaned all jets and metering orifices. Now it runs pretty good at idle with choke open.  When increasing throttle it dies. It will run at fast speed with the choke about 3/4 closed. I'm thinking maybe the high speed jet is not quite clean yet. Any suggestion? The replacement of the carb would be a dog of a job to do since it's mounted from the bottom and through the intake manifold. That's one issue, now for the next;

When I had it running, even at fast speed the charging indicator came on. Check voltage at the battery and regulator, not charging.  With the alternator being somewhat open on this tractor is it possible that it needs a good cleaning? Keeping in mind that this tractor has sat for 3 years.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Almost forgot:

Model : M00316X316653

Engine: B43E-GA016/4232B

 

 

Hello kroges6255

 

The Niki Carburetor is Notorious of getting Plugged up if it has sat for awhile it sure sound's like that is the issue with yours. Many that attempt to get one un-plugged Fail at the first attempt me included. Take the top back off the Carburetor and in the front you will see a screwed in idle jet. It will have a flat tipped screwdriver slot in it. Unscrew it from the Carburetor base. Once it is out check the side tube holes to make certain that they are all open and that you can see light through them. Be extra sure that it is clear from the top of the tube where the straight screwdriver slot is to the bottom of the Orifice as this is the Part that I missed on mine and it was doing the same thing your's is by having to have the choke pulled out to run decent it makes the Carburetor lean. You can use a Bread wrapper tie to clear the small holes in the Mixture tube, simply strip off the outer paper or plastic coating with a Knife. Now what in most cases causes this tube to get plugged up is deteriorating Internal fuel lines. As the rubber fuel line's get older they break down and the Ethanol in pump gas today attack's the rubber making it a sticky Black Goo sending it through the Gas line into the Idle circuit metering jet. I would suggest that you change out all of the fuel supply lines. There is two that run to the gas Tank so the fender pan will have to come off to get to them. There is also two rubber Gromett's in the gas Tank itself that should be changed out that the rubber fuel line hose run's through. There will be a small Gas sediment screen filter on the one supply line inside the tank you can either replace it, or eliminate it as I did and I then Placed Two see through gas filter's on my machine's firwewall that can be easily seen or replaced one in the line feeding to the Fuel Pump, and another in the Line that goes from the fuel Pump to the carburetor. I would Much Rather have both of them out where I can see them rather than have to pull the floor pan to change one. There will be a vaccum line that run's from the back of your Fuel pump to the engine block just above the Oil filter adapter, I would suggest that you change that out too as they get old and dry rotted. Use worm gear Mini clamp's on all of your connection's because they stay tight. This should cure your issue with the lean running situation. As Far as the stator Not charging it could have some light rust on the flywheel preventing it from charging. The bad part is, that the engine will have to come out to work on it. It Look Much More Intimidating than it really is to pull out of the Tractor. When you have the fender pan off, you will have to Un-bolt the driveshaft this will take a 1/2" wrench and you can turn the drive shaft with a flat tipped screw driver to get at the driveshaft bolt's where it hook's to the flywheel. You will have to remove one of the Hydraulic Hydro Pump lines to get at the area to unbolt the driveshaft. Once the Four flywheel bolt's are out, you will have to unbolt the Engine from the frame which will be four more bolt's. Unhook your wiring harness only at the Voltage Regulator, Hot cable that run's to your starter, and Battery ground cable that run's to the engine block as well as the PTO wiring harness that can be seen once you pull the grill out of the Tractor it will be on the lower left hand side of the engine area. Once the engine is out clean up the flyhweel where the startor get's it charge from as well as ths stator contact surface. This should cure your Non charging status. I hope it helps, Hammerdown






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