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Gotta Show Off My Latest Modification....


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#16 littlemarv OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 10:23 PM

Now I see how you can view them bigger- you have to click on them.



#17 littlemarv OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 11:04 PM

O.K., to make the rear adapters, I started with a piece of framerail from a heavy truck. Its about 3/8" thick. I took a center punch and marked the center. Then, clamped my punch 3" from the tip. Put the punch in the mark, swing it around 360 degrees, and you have a 6" circle of iron with the exact center already marked, which is critical for concentricity. Everything is based off the punch mark in the center.

 

I had a fellow at work draw up the bolt circle, it is 5 holes on a 4 1/2" circle, I think. I tried drawing it on paper and dividing the circumference by 5 but it wouldn't come out right. Two or three clicks on his computer and done. I used trim adhesive to glue the paper to the circle, again, lining up the centers with the punch marks.

 

pictures 034.jpg

 

Punched and drilled the holes. I made four circles, two to bolt onto the inner wheel, and two for the outer wheel to bolt onto. So, two were drilled and threaded to 7/16" fine thread, and two were drilled a 64th over 7/16", so they fit over the studs I made.

 

pictures 035.jpg

Attach the inner dual with lug nuts, then the dual adapter will bolt on with regular nuts and lockwashers.

 

pictures 036.jpg

 

pictures 037.jpg

 

Then, I got some 2" square tube, 1/4" wall. Took it to a machine shop and had the ends squared, which is critical so your  wheels don't wobble. Then, I drew a 2 1/8" square out of paper, again with the center marked, and glued it on. Then I just eyeballed the tube onto the paper, put it in a press, and welded the ends on. It sounds silly, but I've built two sets now and they are straight as an arrow.

 

adapters.jpg

 

On my first set, I threaded the holes and used the wheel bolts to put the outer tire on. On this second set, I loctited some bolts in and held the wheel on with lug nuts. The hardened bolts will hold up to more on and offs with the duals.

 

On an Allis or Simplicity, the differential is in the right hub, so I made the adapter 1 7/8" shorter and put spacers on the studs to compensate.

 

Actually, here is the address where I got most of my ideas from-

http://www.xtrememot...s/CC-01-001.htm

 

I looked at these and decided to build my own.

 

I will post later on the front spindle mods.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

 

 

 

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  • pictures 036.jpg

  • Alc said thank you

#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2013 - 07:31 AM

Thanks for the explanation. Those should do well.



#19 littlemarv OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2013 - 04:13 PM

To make the spindles, I took 3/4" rod and some flat stock to make the spindles.

 

spindles 001.jpg

 

spindles 002.jpg

 

spindles 003.jpg

 

Cut the tie rod arms off from a spare axle I had laying out back.

 

spindles 005.jpg

 

Welded it all together, came out pretty good!

 

spindles 006.jpg

 

spindles 010.jpg

 

These are the torrington bearings- you put a washer on either side of them, you have to grind slots in the top one so when you grease the spindles, the bearings get grease.

 

dually assembly 010.jpg

 

Heres some boots I made out of 1" rubber hose to keep grease in, dirt out. (Different tractor.)

 

416steering13.jpg

 

I had to drill the dimples for the setscrews in the ackerman arm to go in

 

tie rod 002.jpg

 

Then, you just pack a lot of wheel bearings, and I put about 1 1/2" of spacers inbetween the wheels to space them out correctly. You actually need three wheel seals per side.

 

done 013.jpg

 

I run 5 pounds less air in all the outside tires, less stress on axle tubes and spindles.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

 


  • CRFarnsworth said thank you




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