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Tips For Stock Garden Tractors At The Pulls


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#1 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 06:34 PM

I thought I'd start a thread on what can be done to improve or make a Factory Stock garden tractor pull better at the pulls,  WITHOUT ANY ENGINE MODIFICATIONS or spending a fortune on it.

 

Reason I have never seen a garden tractor run out of power, if they stop moving forward they spin there wheels.

 

So what can be done with tires, weights, hitch, type of drive-line, driving tips, anything but modifying the engine.

Assuming of course you have a good running engine to start with.

 

 


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 06:40 PM

Good idea, Doug! I'd like to try that sometime!


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#3 baerpath OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 06:41 PM

1st  learn the rules

2nd learn what the rules mean don't guess

 

Then adjust accordingly


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#4 superspeedex OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 06:51 PM

I have heard that some of the old timers used to let theres idle down to nothing and let the clutch out that way theres isnt the much torque on the tires then once engaged you can start reving it up


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#5 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 07:02 PM

Alrighty. Well first thing is you need to get  local club rules and fully understand what you can and cant do. Preferably if you could post all the rules you could go from there. Now im assuming its transfer sled style like what me and duane run so we can help from there. What tractor was you looking at to run? I have a whole list of information but the best advice I can give is just to go to a few and see how everyone sets theirs up. I know on brian millers website he offers a lot of information but the only true way to understand how everything works is to just do it and go from there.


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#6 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 07:33 PM

Looking more for general everybody tractor type of tips, stuff that can be done on garden tractors that are readily available or common types without getting too competitive.

Pulling for fun if you will.

 

What can be done with a belt drive tractor, or hydrostatic drive, or ???


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#7 lesmeister OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 08:59 PM

I run a deere 210 that is bone stock and the best thing I could do was move all of the weight to the back of the tractor. Then you can play with gearing, tire pressure depends on track conditions in my opinion.
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#8 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 09:37 PM

Your better off to stay away from the hydros as they require too much power compared to geared drive. A good set of ag tires something along the lines of carlise. I would imagine you would run in a small tire class so something like 23x10.50x12. You want something with a good lug on them. You would want to lock the rear end so its posi so both wheels are giving traction instead of spinning and not going anywhere but you will have to learn how to lean. If the front end comes up and goes to the right, you want to learn to the right to bring it back to the center of the track. With your weights you want to have a very good and consistent balance which is hard unless you been doing it for the past 15 years Lol. you want to have a rear weight bracket to hang weight, a center weight bracket to help balance the whole tractor, and cant forget about the front weight bracket. Using front weight will help you steer a little better but it also helps balance and helps you "walk" through everyone elses pot holes they spun out in.  


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#9 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 09:39 PM

Ok here's a question for the same size tire and weight what is better?

AG tire or turf tire with chains.


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#10 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 09:42 PM

Never run chains! First I haven't seen a club your allowed to use them in and second, its a safety concern. Your better off to stay with the ag tire as it has better grip, but if you have to run a turf tire, you can get the turf sharpened and it should perform very well.


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#11 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 09:49 PM

Air pressure also plays a big key factor as you don't want to go too low where you blow out the bead, or too much where its not digging and its rather spinning on the surface. Id look for a sears, wheel horse, or cub as all 3 make great pullers.


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#12 lesmeister OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 10:29 PM

I would look for a set of the old style carlisle 23/10.5/12 or26/12/12 super lugs as they seem to work well. The weight placement all depends on the make of tractor you are using, a wheel horse does not have the front weight that a deere does therefore I can run the 1050 class with all of the weight in the back and lean forward to balance the tractor out should the front end come up. There are many great tractors you can use but they all have to be balanced differently
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#13 lesmeister OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 10:47 PM

I have pulled a lot of different vehicles from antique tractors, garden tractors, and 4x4 trucks, and one rule always applies, you have to hook all of the hp to the track no matter how much hp you have. You have 3 basic tools to use, weight, tires, and gears. As Mike said a hydro will loose a lot of power compared to a gear drive. Some hp may be lost with a belt drive set up but it is far less than a hydro in my opinion. If you use a belt drive set up high quality belts and belt tension are key factors in the set up.
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#14 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 10:48 PM

I would look for a set of the old style carlisle 23/10.5/12 or26/12/12 super lugs as they seem to work well. The weight placement all depends on the make of tractor you are using, a wheel horse does not have the front weight that a deere does therefore I can run the 1050 class with all of the weight in the back and lean forward to balance the tractor out should the front end come up. There are many great tractors you can use but they all have to be balanced differently

But with that being said you can add a front weight bar to any tractor and put weight up there to balance it out. Each front end is different weight wise. For example, some cubs have the cast iron front ends while other had the pot metal grilles. On mine I just ended up making it out of light weight aluminum that only weights around 3 pounds compared to the cast. But as far as tractor wise its all preference. 


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#15 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 10:52 PM

I know I have cold feet when it comes to this because I stand firmly behind my cub and though I receive a good arguments from the belt drives, I believe drive shafts are the way to go when putting horse power to the ground. Now I know theres way for the belt drives as far as double springs and double belts but with the cub set up I don't have to worry about all that. I just have to put a heavier spring and depending on what class im in I can put an aftermarket clutch on it and go from there. Im very fortunate that there are aftermarket companies out there that make performance parts for these. 


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