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Need Help Building Ramps


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#16 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 02:55 PM

Marty, I wouldn't want to use those rails myself.  One reason is strength, the other is how they will be slick & offer little traction, especially if the slightest bit damp.  


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#17 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 08:46 PM

Thanks

I know all about welding galvanize or not to weld it.

I've actually ran a truck up on them to get it off ground and they held. They can collapse easily though if any side forces are put on them. I was going to bolt on straps across bottom for support.

 

Maybe I will just abandon these and modify my 5' wide gate that goes on my smaller utility trailer, can't use it on there any more, just sitting in barn. I could mount it on the back of he big trailer, add some extra strengthening supports and just leave it on. I never haul cars anymore on trailer anyway so it could stay on all the time.



#18 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 09:50 PM

 

Maybe I will just abandon these and modify my 5' wide gate that goes on my smaller utility trailer, can't use it on there any more, just sitting in barn. I could mount it on the back of he big trailer, add some extra strengthening supports and just leave it on. I never haul cars anymore on trailer anyway so it could stay on all the time.

 

The beauty of the wide gates is you cannot slide off it, and it can't slide off your trailer.  If it did bend which is almost impossible with a GT, you'd still have tires firmly on the bent gate.  


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#19 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 03:45 AM

Never gave the slippery a thought. Yeah, that would be a little spooky on a rainy day or a dewy morning or even some snow...
I think the gate would do you well

#20 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 01:24 PM

I was loading my tractor last  my winch mount/snow blade. My Sears has loaded aggs, 33# wheel weights, winch/mount with snow blade and my 200#'s so probably pushing 1000#'s.  Cold wet snow covered tires on a wet board and she slid right off the side, when the  rearend landed on middle of just 1 board.... SNAP!!!! I currently have 2x8, ramps and this is why I want to go with something sturdier.

My gate was custom made  for my trailer by a coworker, but due to the trailer being a tilt trailer and balanced in the middle, the extra 80-100#'s or so of gate makes trailer a very bad tail wagger so I can not use it, what a waste it was for that trailer. I would definitely have to beef it up to make sure it wouldn't bend and it's only 4' tall made with only angle/light weight expanded metal, guess I can figure something out.



#21 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 01:33 PM

Why not go to HF and buy a set of ramps?  I've been seeing a lot of 25% off coupons lately so if you used one of them you could buy a set for less then what it would cost to make or modify something.  Plus they are rated any where from 1000 to 1500#.  


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#22 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2013 - 01:44 PM

Why not go to HF and buy a set of ramps?  I've been seeing a lot of 25% off coupons lately so if you used one of them you could buy a set for less then what it would cost to make or modify something.  Plus they are rated any where from 1000 to 1500#.  

 

In the famous words of the "home boy shopping network"

No money, no money, no money!

 

I really want something to handle minimum of 1500 or more. Once I get the Massey running with loaded tires and 150# extra wheel weights, rear implement and possible front small FEL, it will be pretty heavy. Probably have to go to my car ramps then.

I may just modify my car ramps, but they are so heavy already. I could make them semi-permanent so the are mounted and just lifted like the tailgate or those on bigger trailers.  


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#23 lyall OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2013 - 09:36 PM

to make the ramps fit together I would get a 1/4" plate steel that fits inside the uprights of the ramps and it should be a minimum of 2 foot long.  with half of the steel plate inside the ramps sides, bolt the plate to the ramps ( both side of the ramp)  - the other ramp should slide together making a long ramp.  you do not have to blot the plate the the second part of the ramps.  But if you think it might came apart, you can put a removable pin in one side of the second ramp

you should be able to take the ramps apart for storage or transport

note I would not put 3 section together to make a long ramp - it would be a bad idea

 

I used a 2x12 - 12' long for my ramps.  I bolted a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" angles on both sides on the ramps

I have had no problem with them with my JD 214 with and tiller on or with my JD 212 with snowblower and cab


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#24 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2013 - 06:37 AM

We got this ramp for loading my wife's little motorcycle in the back of the truck when we go camping , also worked great for the DB , you might get some ideas from this site they have a lot of different styles . I can take close-ups of the hinge point if you want .

 

 http://www.discountr...rcycle-ramp.htm

 

 

If you look close they are 3 ramps  2 small and 1 a little bigger so it can be used different ways


Edited by Alc, November 20, 2013 - 06:40 AM.

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#25 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2013 - 08:58 AM

yea, I've toured that website a few times, plenty of eye candy on there.

I had thought about just adding some long angle to teh sides of some 2x10's or so, but....$$$$$

I would like to buy a pair of ramps, HF, Discount, etc, but.....$$$$$

 

I'm just trying to utilize what I already have and grabbing scrap out of the  pile to use.I have those short ramp pieces and i have a gate already made so trying to use them without spending too much more money to adapt.

 

lyall, I kind of like that idea, not sure if I could get it to work right, but sounds interesting.

 

 

Thanks


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#26 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2013 - 09:46 AM

I know I first gave you a discouraging comment at first about not being able to get a good joint on these. I like you try so hard to use what I have & most the time I succeed. I've been giving your project a lot of thought....I like a challenge. What I had in mind was like Lyall mentioned. These plates inside the sides of your ramps would bare the load at the joint. You could slide a rod like a removable pin through each end of the plates. I have a pair of 2x10 treated lumber 7' long that are over 20 years old. I know for a fact even though lumber is still rated it by far isn't what it use to be. We are forced to buy lumber from other countries & some are hybrid & young growth. Keep us up dated.



#27 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2013 - 12:49 PM

I just worry how those metal pieces can twist easily.  And like even you said Marty, can collapse if things aren't just right.  I just can't offer advice on how to use them, as I would feel at least partially to blame if I did, then you got hurt.  I wanna see you at some plow days again....with all your joints/limbs intact!  :smilewink:


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#28 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2013 - 02:34 PM

If I were set on use these (which with some bracing I see no reason not to) I would hinge them something like what I've sketched up. Personally, I HATE messing with galvanized steel but I understand the "use what you have" way of doing things.

 

ramp.jpg


Edited by twostep, November 20, 2013 - 02:36 PM.

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