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Need Help Building Ramps


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#1 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2013 - 10:04 PM

Ok, I have pieces of railing, they would make good ramps with a little modding. They are 4' so I need to put two of them together so I have enough length where in comes my questions.

My Sears weighs in at probably 900-1000 with my butt in seat and I would like to be able to use to load my MF 1855 which will end up with loaded tires and 75# wheel weights.

I thought of just butting them end to end, use plates to bolt together and cut the ends on angles or even just lying them on top of 2x8 and bolting together, but man they would be heavy.

Another option is to somehow make a hinge so I can have longer ramps, but fold them so they can be stored easily. This would maybe let me have longer ramps also. Longer the better when I have my mowing deck on as it drags trailer bed when loading if angle is short.

 

Here's the sections .

photobucket-7944-1384564374622_zps5b44c6

 

This would be folding in on themselves. This would be easiest, but I would have to make some type of strong attachment/pin system or they would collapse when loading and I don't think they would be as strong.

 

photobucket-6791-1384564393361_zpsb496b9

 

This would be my desire, for them to fold backwards. When opened, they would rest against themselves and would be stronger overall. I know I can't just make hinge as there has to be some pivot area, but I cannot picture how to do this.

Any ideas?

 

photobucket-6773-1384564415777_zps01be1e


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#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2013 - 10:26 PM

Boxing in the bottoms of the ends would give you a spot to put the hinges... But I am a little concerned about the contact faces slipping past each other and collapsing.  Making the ends flat and boxing in the bottoms would do it... but now we're adding weight.

 

Is there a way to use/transport them welded together and full length?

 

I actually have an idea, but it might be a little flaky.  The rcvr on your truck is a 2" and you slide a 2" piece of steel into it.  If you had some 2" OD pieces and some 2" ID pieces, you could slide them together & pin them.  Weight, yes, but stronger than a hinge.


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#3 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2013 - 10:44 PM

On the trailer? Full length! Get two more!

 

post-8002-0-17465500-1351035500.jpg


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#4 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 12:13 AM

Honestly I don't think you could get a good enough joint no matter what you do to support that amount of weight safely. The only thing I would trust would be a drop down leg from joint area to ground to support the connection. Let us know what you decide.


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#5 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 12:46 AM

HF Tools sells ramps that look like that in either single-piece or three-piece-folding.   You might study the hinges on the folding ones and see what you think.  Both types of the ramps are rated at 1000 lbs per set.

GOOD LUCK!!

 

http://www.harborfre...pair-96513.html


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#6 SupplySergeant ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 02:58 AM

No advice to offer, but I'll be watching this thread, since I need to build a set of ramps myself. Good luck!


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#7 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 04:28 AM

How about this-  Get some 4" or 3 1/2" by 1/4" angle iron and do this:

 

Cut 2 pieces the width of the ramp.  

 

Cut one side down and shape it so it will fit inside the ramp's metal while the other side is on the bottom of the ramp.  (fit it inside the ramp..)

 

Weld the angle iron into the ramp.. End and bottom's of both pieces.

 

Buy 4 shed door hinges.  Heavy with long sides  LOOK

 

Lay the ramps on the floor bottom side up & against one-another and align the hinge with the center of the joint.

 

Weld two hinges on per ramp ..   (make sure they are aligned parallel)

 

Have your best buddy try them out!!


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#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 05:30 AM

I use the HF 6' ramps. I've had no problem loading any of mine including the FF with a 12" 3-point plow on it! It has 75 lb wheel weights and an extra 80~ lbs on the front. I know the tractor is well over 1000 lbs with me on it!


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#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 05:41 AM

Do you really need them to be 8ft?  If 6 ft would do then cut them to 3 ft or cut 1 to 2 ft and join them. There will be less stress on the ramps and the joint if you are spanning smaller distances. Maybe at 6ft you would not have to fold them which would allow for a stronger join. 


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#10 baerpath OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 08:20 AM

I bought a set of aluminum arched ramps of C list for 75 bucks rated at 1200lbs   I would keep looking those make terrible ramps to slippery for the tires wet or if you have chains on.  Been there done that and got hurt from doing it


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#11 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 08:27 AM

   I'll suggest making them one piece and using 1/8" flatbar about 18" long the same width as the flange to join them together. It would add very little weight. If you want hinges you can use 1/8"x 2" angle to box the ends and attach hinges to the bottom of angle iron. If the hinge route is taken,you could also grind a slight angle in the flange ends so it will put a slight camber or hump in the ramps to make mower deck clearance onto tlr deck better. Cut only half of flange height off at the bottom to help "flatten" the ramps. 

  As for slippery, I ran my mig w/o gas to deposit a whole bunch of neat little "gobbers" on the ramp surface. Almost like extremely coarse sandpaper. It won't form a puddle as your traveling fairly fast.

             Mike


Edited by ol' stonebreaker, November 16, 2013 - 08:33 AM.

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#12 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 09:21 AM

Thanks for all comments. I have a set of 4' HD car ramps, but they need  more angles welded in or heavy expanded metal as slots are too far apart for loading tractors....and they are HHEEAAAVVYYY!!!

These are lighter and I may just go with the suggestions of making them 6' and just bolting/welding extra lengths on the long ones. Storage isn't an issue, I just strap to bed, but length adds weight for moving, my old back is starting to not like it I have like 10- 4' pieces of this stuff so if I screw up a couple times.....  :D I can always raise tongue a little too to make angle not so bad on the back.

My trailer is almost identical to Kenny's and if 6 footers work for him, maybe I can get away with it. The extra length is just always nice.

I got to make something better than the 2x8's I got, I'm ready for them to break at any time, even with a piece of angle bolted lengthwise.


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#13 JRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 09:41 AM

I would  NOT think about welding those hinges from HF for they appear to be galvanized finish and that is hard to weld and hard to get it to penetrate. And that is my two cents worth.

 

 

Dick 


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#14 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 10:42 AM

I would  NOT think about welding those hinges from HF for they appear to be galvanized finish and that is hard to weld and hard to get it to penetrate. And that is my two cents worth.

 

 

Dick 

  The rails are also galvanised so he's going to have to deal w/ it. If I have to weld galvy w/ the mig I grind off all the zinc where the weld will be. If I weld it w/ stick I whip the arc ahead of the puddle to burn off the zinc before weld deposition and use a good fan for smoke control.

                                               Mike

                                      Mike



#15 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2013 - 11:15 AM

Take 2 plates the width of the railing and a foot or longer.  Weld or bolt 2 hinges to the plates then attach the plates to the end of the two ramps you are wanting to put together. 

 

But personally If those are railings I would question if they are strong enough to support the weight.  They weren't designed to carry that much weight.  Another question is how do you plan on load testing them safely?






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