By standard I mean a Gates Hi-Power A belt. It is a standard black industrial/agricultural type belt. These post that I found after I ordered the belt seem to comfirm my findings. http://gardentractor...ulling/?p=98108
Another comment I found said these type belts are either on or off in relation to the clutch, there is no friction zone.
As far as I know all the BX type belts are raw rubber edged belts. Your going to have a hard time finding a V-belt that will transfer more horse power. They are notorious for not slipping. We had large ammonia compressors in our facility that we had to run wrapped belts on for this reason. They also generate a lot of friction when pulling into the pulley groove which in turn creates heat. On a garden tractor this is not an issue as long as you don't try and use the belt as a clutch. I was a plant engineer for 31 years and spent a lot of that time involved with large horse power belt drives. When set up properly they are still a good way to get work done.
Your using a belt to jackshaft to tranny system. To much power loss. Most pullers will change one of those belt drives to a chain drive.The only machines with belt drive that have a decent set-up is Sears Suburban and Wheel Horse.The geometry?of those belt systems just seem to be "right". You replace the front pulley with an adjustable one and you have instant gear ratio change. You also have to mount the motor in slots on the frame to be able to slide the motor back and forth as you change pulley diameter.
The final secret to belt drive success is to use a BX series belt, they are not reccommended for clutching , because they grab and don't slip. On my Wheelhorse B-Stock I have to shut the motor down to get it in gear. But my Trophys and Ribbons kind of make the effort worthwhile.
MH81, yes I am talking about the main drive belt.
Edited by AVB, November 21, 2013 - 12:26 AM.