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A Gift From A Close Friend. Case 222


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#31 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2013 - 05:44 PM

 I didn't get much done today, but I did pull the head off the engine with intentions of cleaning the carbon out of it. This engine wasn't smoking at all, but to my surprise, it has a noticeable wear ridge at the top of the cylinder, as well as 2 vertical scratches in the cylinder that are enough to hang a fingernail on. It feels like there is a little play in the exhaust valve guide as well. After seeing this I decided to pull the oil pan off, and check the crankshaft, but was pleased to find it still looked great. I hadn't planed on rebuilding the engine, as it seemed to be in good shape, but I can't bring myself to put it back together, and paint it up pretty knowing that the engine is wore out. So, I will be rebuilding this engine, although I will have to use an aftermarket kit in it, to keep it affordable. I have a very capable machine shop I use, and they're prices are fair. It will be $30 to bore, and hone, and probably another $20-30 to replace the valve guide. I didn't have my camera with me, so I don't have any pics yet, but I'll try to get a few tomorrow. Thanks

 

Matt


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#32 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2013 - 07:59 PM

 First off, I want say that I thank the Lord that I decided to rebuild this engine, because if I hadn't this engine would have self destructed in a hurry! One of the wrist pin retaining clips had come out of the piston, which is what caused the two vertical lines I noticed in the cylinder yesterday. I don't know what caused it, but you can see the damage to the piston, and cylinder below. The scratches aren't very deep, and should clean up at .010, but if this engine had run much longer, it probably would have destroyed it.

 Another thing, as soon as I removed the large nut from the flywheel, I could see the flywheel key was sheered, and had moved about 1/8 in from where it was supposed to be. I cannot believe this engine ran as well as it did! The exhaust valve seat was quite pitted as well, which can be seen in the pics. That's no problem, as I have a great little Neway Valve Seat Cutter, that made short work of that problem, and when I order my engine kit, I'll get the one with valves. Here are a few pics. Thanks

 

Matt

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#33 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2013 - 10:12 PM

Very nice. I'm glad you decided to also. I had an Onan rebuilt once that you would have though it was like new the way it ran, but after disassembly I was sure glad I did it right and tore into anyway. It needed a lot of machine work.

Look'n good. Keep up the great work!


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#34 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2013 - 10:40 PM

 Thanks Mike, and I forgot to mention that the new motor mounts came, so I got them installed as well.

 

Matt

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#35 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted November 23, 2013 - 10:55 PM

The flywheel key being sheared doesn't affect how it runs, as the timing is controlled by the points being ran off the camshaft.  Long as the flywheel is snug enough to spin with the crank, all is ok.    Lucky you got into it though for sure!


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#36 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 24, 2013 - 12:14 AM

The flywheel key being sheared doesn't affect how it runs, as the timing is controlled by the points being ran off the camshaft.  Long as the flywheel is snug enough to spin with the crank, all is ok.    Lucky you got into it though for sure!

 Thats a very good point! Now I'm feeling a little dumb, I should have known better. I've been working on so many old magneto Briggs engines lately, that I didn't even bother to think about it. :loosing_it: Thanks for pointing that out. Who knows how long it would have taken, for that to finally dawn on me.  :thumbs:

 

Matt



#37 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 26, 2013 - 07:29 PM

 This isn't much of an update, as its been to cold to paint, so all I've really been doing is cleaning parts, and sanding body panels. I did get my block checked, and was told to get a .020 piston, as he didn't believe it would clean up at .010, so I ordered the kit yesterday. The kit was $103, and comes with piston/rings, con rod, In/Ex valves, gaskets, seals, points, and spark plug. The parts are Stens Rotary, which I've been very happy with on past rebuilds.

 I did get a package in the mail with a few parts I ordered. New headlight lenses, ignition switch (which is a 4 position switch because the first position is just for the headlights), hour meter, dust caps for the front wheels, new hydraulic cooling fan (mine has several cracks), new rubber grips for the drive, and deck raise/lower handle, as well as the piece of rubber molding that goes around the top edge of the dash. I'm amazed at how available parts are for the Case tractors, and I paid far less for these new parts than I would have paid for used parts on my Wheel Horses! Just try and buy a NOS headlight lens for less than about $75 on a Wheel Horse! I paid $10 for these. :thumbs:  Here are a couple pics.

 

Matt

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#38 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2013 - 04:50 AM

Matt;

Wheel Horse NOS lenses are most likely glass not plastic. The early Case's had glass lenses called Speaker 777 and used ones usually bring anywhere from $50 to $100.



#39 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 04:34 PM

 My engine kit came in today, and everything looks great. It really is a very thorough kit for $100. I've been working on my carburetor as well. The throttle shaft had a lot of play, so I had to address that problem. I am aware that Brian Miller sells a bushing for this, but I decided to try my local hardware store. I found the correct 1/4 x 7/16 bronze bushing, but it was 1" long, so I put it on my drill press, and using a hack saw blade, I cut a 3/16 piece off of it, and using a 1/4 bolt as a guide, I gently tapped it into the carb body. It worked perfectly, and the throttle shaft doesn't have any play now. :thumbs:

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#40 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 09:43 PM

Nice work on the carb! Looks new. The kit looks good to.


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#41 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2013 - 10:36 PM

Solid looking repair, should last a very long time
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#42 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 08:37 AM

 Today is going to be our last warm day for awhile, so I'm going to try, and get some painting done. Hopefully I'll have some pics later, Thanks

 

Matt


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#43 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 07:32 PM

 Well, I got most of it painted today. Its far from perfect, but it most certainly is shiny. I didn't spend enough time sanding, and getting the surface perfectly smooth, so you can see where some of the previous scratches, and chips were in the paint, but that's ok, as I plan on using it some, and don't want to live in fear of scratching my perfect paint. This paint job does have hardener in it, so it should be relatively durable. I didn't get the wheels painted yet, as I ran out of time.

 I did get a call from the machine shop, and my block is finished, so I'll get it picked up tomorrow. :thumbs:

 

Matt

 

 Mike, is the grill section of this hood supposed to be gloss black, or is it more of a low gloss, or matte black? I could tell the frame was a gloss, but the grill appeared to be more of a matte finish. Once the paint is dry, I'll have to repaint the grill black. Thanks

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#44 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2013 - 08:18 PM

You could have had the decency to put the painted parts in your garage before taking the pictures . Rather than letting us northern boys see the reflections of the trees out of doors on appears to be a beautiful day. nice job on paint. I could have run out after work and thrown a halve inch thick clear coat on my tractor with just a hot pot of water. Temp today low 20s and windy tomorrow low teens so do enjoy the weather your having and good luck on the rest of your build. As for grill most I've seen are flat black and  not even blacked out but like they say it's your tractor go with what you like.


Edited by gopher, December 05, 2013 - 08:28 PM.

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#45 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 06, 2013 - 01:52 PM

Matt I always paint the grills Gloss Black like the frame. Looks nicer and dust does not cling to gloss as easily.






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