Greetings Massey Ferguson Nation, I have a strange question maybe. Is it possible or has anyone ever changed the spark plug wire on the solid state ignition coil? The coil seems to be okay, but the wire has some wear and seems a little frail.

Ignition Question
#1
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Posted November 11, 2013 - 07:16 PM
#2
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Posted November 11, 2013 - 07:30 PM
I have not done it. All I will say is don't screw up the solid state. If you are talking about a Tecumseh HH series solid state, those suckers can run $200 or better if you can find them.
Ben W.
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#3
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Posted November 11, 2013 - 08:06 PM
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#4
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Posted November 11, 2013 - 08:09 PM
They don't just come out. You are better to heat shrink and be careful with it IMHO.
That was my thought as well.
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#5
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Posted November 11, 2013 - 08:10 PM
They don't just come out. You are better to heat shrink and be careful with it IMHO.
Do what you can to fix the wire.
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#6
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Posted November 11, 2013 - 09:29 PM
I've used a Well pump splice kit for the heat shrink tube.It isn't just normal heat shrink.It has a heat activated glue in it that makes it 100% water tight.
Works really good for patching up a mouse chewed magneto or coil wire.
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#7
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Posted November 12, 2013 - 02:19 AM
jacksdad, try this web page for info on these ignition systems." home.earthlink.net ". the guys name is ed stoller. ton of info here.
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#8
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Posted November 12, 2013 - 06:28 AM
Iv'e never used liquid tape on spark plug wires but I wonder if anyone has ? I had a wire that rubbed on the sheet metal but just used regular electric tape this might have done a cleaner job idk
http://www.plastidip...ons/Liquid_Tape
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#9
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Posted November 12, 2013 - 07:22 AM
I've used a Well pump splice kit for the heat shrink tube.It isn't just normal heat shrink.It has a heat activated glue in it that makes it 100% water tight.
Works really good for patching up a mouse chewed magneto or coil wire.
But it is stiffer than regular heatshrink.
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#10
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Posted November 12, 2013 - 07:29 AM
I have not done it. All I will say is don't screw up the solid state. If you are talking about a Tecumseh HH series solid state, those suckers can run $200 or better if you can find them.
Ben W.
Yes it is an hh series. They are expensive and rare.
#11
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Posted November 12, 2013 - 07:46 AM
How about a bit of liquid tape at both ends, and then heat shrink tube, before
the liquid tape dries. That should keep it dry, and flexible.
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#12
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Posted November 12, 2013 - 09:52 AM
As mentioned, check out Ed Stollers engines and magnets website, he shows these things all torn apart.
http://enginesandmagnets.com/id7.html
The plug wires are pressed down in the module, the core of wire is pressed over a pin in the hole. I have read where Ed states you can clean off hte bottom of the wire, then press it back down in there, not sure how he keeps in in there though. Yuo can email him off his website, he normally replies with in 24 hrs.
You can also sign up on Yahoo Tecumseh group, there are some good guys out there that may help, Ed is active member there too.
If you can not fix it....do not waste your money on a used one off evilbay. There are many up to date upgraded conversion out here that use a lot of off the shelf igntion parts. Many convert it over to a battery-automotive coil style, but check out Dale Colverts "Overnight solutions igniton" system. It is pretty much a direct replacement using newer components and you will spend less than buying a used 40 yr old part off ebay. His conversion also keeps it as a stand alone igntion, battery only needed to start tractor like yours is now.
Ed has a conversion kit his buddy Mike Brown sells on his website,
You can also check out Brain Miller's components on Garden Tractor pulling tips.com.
I have a complete different setup on my Tecumseh that eliminates the flywheel pins and just used a glued in magnet and a micro switch that fires an auto coil.
in a nutshell there are other options than the old SSI modules.
Edited by TAHOE, November 12, 2013 - 09:53 AM.
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#13
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Posted November 13, 2013 - 07:04 PM
I found mine ignition cable came out with not too much pulling and twisting. It is basically a tight fit into the SSI which has a sharp pin at the bottom and this is forced up into the centre of the HT cable when you push it back down in.They don't just come out. You are better to heat shrink and be careful with it IMHO.
I pulled mine out in order to get the rubber grommet off. I could have worked it off the other end if I had pulled the boot off, but at the time that seemed impossible and the other way was easier. I put it back in after bending each wire out so that the pin could slide up the centre of the HT cable and made sure it was well down to the bottom of the well in the SSI module, Since I put it back together It has worked fine for two seaons.
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#14
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Posted November 13, 2013 - 07:45 PM
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#15
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Posted November 14, 2013 - 09:24 AM
I know the original one from my SS12 is epoxied in, glad you were able to get yours out.
Maybe the first gens were, then they got cheap as the years went on and they just pushed them in. Both the ones from my 16's are just pushed in, they are the 3rd gen modules.
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