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I Woke Up This Morning Not Expecting To Buy This Case


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#46 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2014 - 10:18 PM

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649

 

Pete if this is the style you have then there should be a plug at the other end of the spool valve (opposite where the shift rod hooks on)

 

If you remove the plug and the shift rod you can see if you can move the spool back and forth.

 

That way to you'll see if it is just the spool stuck, or if the linkage is bent and binding also.

 

Also once you get the rod disconnected and the cap off you'll be able to remove the spool valve so you can check the O-rings. Just push it out backwards (t words the plug you removed)

 

And if all else fails wait till I can get there :D


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#47 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2014 - 10:42 PM

Sorry had to leave for while. Chris is right. Usually it will give you good idea of what up against aka rust from sitting or sludge build up. One other thing you said rod in slot. If your hole in the tab is oblong it needs reworked. With Case even a 1/16 inch slop in travel control linkage does effect performance.   



#48 rust addict OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2014 - 12:27 PM

Right time right place-you need to skip work more often.



#49 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2014 - 03:38 PM

Making progress today. Here are some photos.

 

 

Photo one shows the DCV I have. I found out while playing down there that the valve moves if I turn it. At first it wouldn't spin, I tried the other and saw how easily it turned, so I tried this one. With a wrench, it turned. And while I turned it, while I pulled the lever down, it moved in! 

 

Comparing to my 444, the valve has three positions, F N R. It seems that it was suck out in the R position and no matter what I did with the lever, it wouldn't shift into N.

 

Photo 2 & 3 may explain why.

 

Photo 2 show the lever to the pass side, and it moves freely. But if you'll notice, on the bottom of the shaft, there is a washer and cotter pin, on photo 3, you see that's missing.

 

So that lever is flopping around with nothing keeping it secure. Now, one would think to just add a washer & cotter pin and that should correct the problem.

 

BUT there is NO hole to put the cotter pin in.

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • photo 1 (2).JPG
  • photo 2 (2).JPG
  • photo 3 (1).JPG


#50 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2014 - 07:15 PM

Strange as it seems your just missing the washer. By there parts break down there is no cotter key in the travel control. Ingersoll has some of the best parts break down in the business. It might have key in lift rod because of the float feature coming off float it snaps back might have tendency to hop out hole. Or stronger spring to hold in float detent



#51 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2014 - 07:39 PM

Could you post the parts break down image that you're looking at?

#52 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 27, 2014 - 08:52 PM

Go here and click on find your parts manual http://www.eastmanind.com/INGERSOLL/tabid/186/Default.aspx



#53 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2014 - 10:57 AM

Sweet haul



#54 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2014 - 06:46 PM

So I find the photo, and like you said, all it shows is a washer.....well how the BLEEP does the washer stay there? Gum? LOL



#55 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2014 - 08:02 PM

The washer sets on top of the slot. Is there a recess on top that the washer sets in?



#56 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2014 - 09:52 PM

 As gopher said Titus, the travel control doesn't have a washer and cotter pin on the bottom side. Both the travel control, and the raise/lower control have a nylon washer sitting in the pockets above, but only the raise/lower has a steel washer, and cotter pin below. At least, thats the way it is on both my 222, and 444. 

 

Matt



#57 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2014 - 08:10 AM

Thanks guys, so the nylon washer  sits in the metal housing then the spring pushes down on it keeping it in place? Is that how it functions? 

 

I'll check again and if it is in fact missing, then am I going to remove the travel arm to re-install it or is there a trick to get it in easier?

 

Thank you for the help.



#58 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2014 - 03:36 PM

 Yes Titus, that is the way it functions. If it is indeed missing then you will need to install one. It may be a little tricky, but you shouldn't have to remove the travel control arm. You should be able to use a screwdriver to push up on the spring, and slide the whole rod out of its slot, although you may have to remove the little rod that goes to your valve body to allow you to slide the travel control rod out of its pocket. 

 

Matt


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#59 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2014 - 06:42 PM

 Yes Titus, that is the way it functions. If it is indeed missing then you will need to install one. It may be a little tricky, but you shouldn't have to remove the travel control arm. You should be able to use a screwdriver to push up on the spring, and slide the whole rod out of its slot, although you may have to remove the little rod that goes to your valve body to allow you to slide the travel control rod out of its pocket. 

 

Matt

Thanks Matt,

    I had a chance to look today on my 444 and I am indeed missing that washer. Trying to get a flathead or pliers in that tiny space is a nightmare with my huge hands. It looks like I need to remove that little rod you were talking about, just trying to take that cotter pin out is the issue right now.



#60 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2014 - 03:35 PM

Got it! This sure is the problem! It's almost a Delrin type material, not metal. What size is this? Anyone know so I can go get a replacement?

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